i heard its not a good idea to switch back from synthetic oil to conventional...has anyone heard this...? bike is a 96' GSXR-1100..thanks

As far as I know it's fine, but why change back?

Isn't is just like using semi-synthetic? I have heard this, but I do not think that there is validity to this.

:scratch Never heard that before.

never heard of it causing any problems, but why would you want to use anything but synthetic?

the problem is supposed to be that because of the detergents in synthetic oil, the new oil will foam or some shit. i dont think it would be a huge deal, but i'm personally a firm believer in full syn oils. especially in toys that we demand a lot out of. they're so cheap to maintain, spending an extra $20 on syn once a year is worth it to me. at least i know when i'm beating on it i put the best oil i could in it.

:scratch Never heard that before.

been working at autozone for a while and you ask any of the guys there and they'll tell you not to switch back (from synthetic to conventional) because the seals are conditioned and treated by the synthetic oil and when you take that away, they can shrink and you can start to blow oil... plus 20 bucks is worth that extra piece of mind

When synthetic oils were FIRST introduced all the major oil manufacturers recommended breaking in engines with conventional oil (due to the fact the syn oil did not allow for enough friction to occur to break in the rings) and the switching to synthetic and never switching back. Abt 4 years ago I went to a Valvoline seminar for work and they explained this all to us, I don't remember why the initially advised against switching back but they told us that there is absolutely no issue whatsoever with switching back to a conventional oil now-days. The question was brought up due to potential legal issues of putting conventional oil in a car that was running synthetic and possibly causing engine damage (I work for an automotive repair chain)

Just in my case, I have switched back and forth several times. With several bikes all beaten like I stole them every ride. 25,000 hard miles on my 2006 1000 and not a leak or seal replaced yet.

My 2001 Which I turboed after 16,000 miles ran great also and still runs to this day in the sand since that motor went into an ATV. :punk

Rotella Either syn (not sure it is a "true" syn) or the reg. stuff. Back and forth as well as Motoul and others from time to time but I fall back on the cheap and often system myself. :cheers

There will be as many different views on this as what tire is the "best".:lmao

Another oil thread?


You can switch to and from synthetic/non-synthetic as many times as you would like, nothing bad will happen. The important thing is that you change the oil at, or more often than, the specified intervals in your service manual.

the problem is supposed to be that because of the detergents in synthetic oil, the new oil will foam or some shit. i dont think it would be a huge deal, but i'm personally a firm believer in full syn oils. especially in toys that we demand a lot out of. they're so cheap to maintain, spending an extra $20 on syn once a year is worth it to me. at least i know when i'm beating on it i put the best oil i could in it.
If you are using a car oil in a bike this may happen as the car oil does not have the anti foaming additives that a motorcycle oil has. If you are using a quality motorcycle specific oil you will not have any problems switching back and forth. It is cheap insurance to use the best oil in you bike. Full Synth is best hands down!

Stick will full synthetic as it is superior. If you want to be cheap, sell your bike.

oil is oil IMO, its all about peace of mind and maintnance scheduling

oil is oil IMO, its all about peace of mind and maintnance scheduling

Sorry Bro but all oil is not the same. Full Synth is NOT the same as mineral oil. Not by far.

Your bike will burst into flames if you do this.







Seriously though, semi-synthetic oil is conventional oil mixed with synthetic oil.......does that cause any problems? apparently not since they bottle it and sell it on store shelves.

Sorry Bro but all oil is not the same. Full Synth is NOT the same as mineral oil. Not by far.

bad choice of words by me, yoshimurard:cheers

u r 100% true, but what i was refering to is that there is really no wrong choice of motorcycle oil. as long as its changed regularly. synthetic is better, but dino oil is not bad for a motor by any means, its just not nearly as good.

i run mobil 1 as it scored high on the diagnostic. and its readily available.:punk

Calling it, "motorcycle oil," is a marketing device which does one thing and one thing only: It incentivizes you, the unknowing consumer, to give up more of your money than you need to give up.

Use synthetic if you want to test it out. Personally, the few benefits there are (and yes, there are a few), are not worth the extra cost. Value given is short of dollars paid, if you know what I mean.

Switching back from synthetic to dino oil causes no harm whatsoever.

Carry on!

--Wag--

bad choice of words by me, yoshimurard:cheers

u r 100% true, but what i was refering to is that there is really no wrong choice of motorcycle oil. as long as its changed regularly. synthetic is better, but dino oil is not bad for a motor by any means, its just not nearly as good.

i run mobil 1 as it scored high on the diagnostic. and its readily available.:punk

I have to agree with you. If you change every 3k then it should not present a problem. I am also like you in that I use only full Synth. Elf Moto Sport 4 Campione. It is a 10W60 and since it is very hot 98% of the time here in Houston, TX it takes very god care of my girl.

All you guys are wrong, switching from a full synthetic oil back to a conventional oil. Causes oil sludge. Mind you, if you have been running a Full synthetic and switch back to a conventional oil and you stick with the conventional oil, you're fine. But, switching back and forth constantly could cause enough sludge to cause some problems. You would have to change back and forth consistently for a long time to possibly cause any problems, as a result from oil sludge. If you switch back and forth once or twice it's harmless. The reason it is warned not to do is, the chemical structure of the remaining oil in the motor ,from say full synthetic, is mixed with the new batch of convectional oil. It causes small amounts of oil sludge. But, doing it once or twice over the life of an engine and changing that oil at proper intervals, no foul. The best thing to do for sludge prevention is to have your motor flushed. All motors after a given time are subject to oil sludge. It takes a lot of miles for this factor to possibly be a hinder on a neglected motor. Believe it or not, the best thing to flush a motor with is diesel fuel. Poor it in any crankcase after draining oil. Say five quarts of diesel in a five quart crankcase. Start the motor, let it idle ( DO NOT REV ! ) for 2-3 minutes and no longer. Drain, like you would oil. You would not believe what the diesel removes, that was left behind. Would I do this on my 11 thousand dollar motorcycle ? Hell no, but have done it on every single vehicle in my life, during every oil change. A lot of miles, out of a lot of vehicles.

All you guys are wrong, switching from a full synthetic oil back to a conventional oil. Causes oil sludge. Mind you, if you have been running a Full synthetic and switch back to a conventional oil and you stick with the conventional oil, you're fine. But, switching back and forth constantly could cause enough sludge to cause some problems. You would have to change back and forth consistently for a long time to possibly cause any problems, as a result from oil sludge. If you switch back and forth once or twice it's harmless. The reason it is warned not to do is, the chemical structure of the remaining oil in the motor ,from say full synthetic, is mixed with the new batch of convectional oil. It causes small amounts of oil sludge. But, doing it once or twice over the life of an engine and changing that oil at proper intervals, no foul. The best thing to do for sludge prevention is to have your motor flushed. All motors after a given time are subject to oil sludge. It takes a lot of miles for this factor to possibly be a hinder on a neglected motor. Believe it or not, the best thing to flush a motor with is diesel fuel. Poor it in any crankcase after draining oil. Say five quarts of diesel in a five quart crankcase. Start the motor, let it idle ( DO NOT REV ! ) for 2-3 minutes and no longer. Drain, like you would oil. You would not believe what the diesel removes, that was left behind. Would I do this on my 11 thousand dollar motorcycle ? Hell no, but have done it on every single vehicle in my life, during every oil change. A lot of miles, out of a lot of vehicles.

No, you my friend, are wrong. Like I said, I spoke with representatives from Valvoline, a $7 Billion dollar a year lubrication company, and they explained the entire process to us, and why it used to NOT be OK (20 years ago) and why it is fine to do today. All oils have detergent in them that cleans out the inside of an engine. I don't know how many engines you have rebuilt but I have rebuilt a lot, in various states of maintenance and one thing is clear to me; change your oil regularly and you motor wont get sludged up. And NEVER in my life have I heard of someone running straight diesel fuel in a crankcase! Fuel oil has absolutely ZERO sheer strength and very low film strength, that will wipe out main, rod and cam bearings faster than you can say shit. The proper way to flush and engine is to put in fresh oil, ONE quart of Kerosene (diesel could be used, but kerosene is a stronger solvent) Idle and drain. This should never be done in a bike.

No, you my friend, are wrong. Like I said, I spoke with representatives from Valvoline, a $7 Billion dollar a year lubrication company, and they explained the entire process to us, and why it used to NOT be OK (20 years ago) and why it is fine to do today. All oils have detergent in them that cleans out the inside of an engine. I don't know how many engines you have rebuilt but I have rebuilt a lot, in various states of maintenance and one thing is clear to me; change your oil regularly and you motor wont get sludged up. And NEVER in my life have I heard of someone running straight diesel fuel in a crankcase! Fuel oil has absolutely ZERO sheer strength and very low film strength, that will wipe out main, rod and cam bearings faster than you can say shit. The proper way to flush and engine is to put in fresh oil, ONE quart of Kerosene (diesel could be used, but kerosene is a stronger solvent) Idle and drain. This should never be done in a bike.

Thank gawd you got in there and said all of that. I was fit to be tied with that post.

GDC: Dispelling rumor and myth since 19??

--Wag--

I've always believed ANY oil is better than NO oil.

I've ridden bikes most of my life and have never bought "motorcycle oil". I just use Quaker State 10/40 and have never had an issue. More recently I've switch to synth and love the longer interval between changes.

I read an article years ago where they were talking to a person from an oil comapany and they said something similar to
"We have never tested motorcycle oils, we just add what we think will help a motorcycle."


Still curious why OP wanted to switch back.

Thank gawd you got in there and said all of that. I was fit to be tied with that post.

GDC: Dispelling rumor and myth since 19??

--Wag--

Yet, what he said at the end of his post " Totally" contradicted his point about using diesel fuel. And you back him up. ? :dunno

No, you my friend, are wrong. Like I said, I spoke with representatives from Valvoline, a $7 Billion dollar a year lubrication company, and they explained the entire process to us, and why it used to NOT be OK (20 years ago) and why it is fine to do today. All oils have detergent in them that cleans out the inside of an engine. I don't know how many engines you have rebuilt but I have rebuilt a lot, in various states of maintenance and one thing is clear to me; change your oil regularly and you motor wont get sludged up. And NEVER in my life have I heard of someone running straight diesel fuel in a crankcase! Fuel oil has absolutely ZERO sheer strength and very low film strength, that will wipe out main, rod and cam bearings faster than you can say shit. The proper way to flush and engine is to put in fresh oil, ONE quart of Kerosene (diesel could be used, but kerosene is a stronger solvent) Idle and drain. This should never be done in a bike.

That's great you spoke with a rep. from Valvoline. But personally I don't care if you spoke with Dick Tracy on the matter. And Dick Tracy followed up with an investigation. The point I made is the same exact fucking point, but you refraised it, retard. Read my post and compare it to exactly what you said. It's the same exact point ! ! ! You restructed what I said, then try to make me look stupid ? WTF ? :dunno You make the same exact point, but only in your own words. In a lot of places they call that pledgerism. And what the fuck does sheer strength or film streghth have anything to do with abilities to be a cleaning solvent ? And for your back yard go-cart motor rebuilding, the diesel fuel is not to be used for the intended purposes of being a solvent. It's simply used to flush. And for someone who has never heard of using diesel fuel to flush " My Whole Entire Life ", mechanics on all levels have been using that method long before you or I were ever born. With great success for intended pupose. Yes, diesel fuel is not a good lubricator, obviously. Captain- Fucking Obvious. That's why you simply let the motor idle for a short period of time and drain. Isn't that what you said too ? Give me a break. :dissapointed

Yet, what he said at the end of his post " Totally" contradicted his point about using diesel fuel. And you back him up. ? :dunno Wow, some people ?

Yet, what he said at the end of his post " Totally" contradicted his point about using diesel fuel. And you back him up. ? :dunno

Er, which contradiction?

--Wag--

And NEVER in my life have I heard of someone running straight diesel fuel in a crankcase!

I have heard of this before. I don't know anyone who has done it, but I have heard of it.

Fuel oil has absolutely ZERO sheer strength and very low film strength, that will wipe out main, rod and cam bearings faster than you can say shit.

It would depend how much load that you put on the engine. If the engine is started and idled, diesel should provide enough of a film to prevent metal on metal. Would I do it? Don't think so. Is it a good idea? No. I would probably use your method instead.

The proper way to flush and engine is to put in fresh oil, ONE quart of Kerosene (diesel could be used, but kerosene is a stronger solvent) Idle and drain. This should never be done in a bike.

You could probably get away with it in a Harley.:lol

.

That's great you spoke with a rep. from Valvoline. But personally I don't care if you spoke with Dick Tracy on the matter. And Dick Tracy followed up with an investigation. The point I made is the same exact fucking point, but you refraised it, retard. Read my post and compare it to exactly what you said. It's the same exact point ! ! ! You restructed what I said, then try to make me look stupid ? WTF ? :dunno You make the same exact point, but only in your own words. In a lot of places they call that pledgerism. And what the fuck does sheer strength or film streghth have anything to do with abilities to be a cleaning solvent ? And for your back yard go-cart motor rebuilding, the diesel fuel is not to be used for the intended purposes of being a solvent. It's simply used to flush. And for someone who has never heard of using diesel fuel to flush " My Whole Entire Life ", mechanics on all levels have been using that method long before you or I were ever born. With great success for intended pupose. Yes, diesel fuel is not a good lubricator, obviously. Captain- Fucking Obvious. That's why you simply let the motor idle for a short period of time and drain. Isn't that what you said too ? Give me a break. :dissapointed

Ok lets break this down... I talked to a lubrication engineer that knows a fuck-load more about oils then you or I because he makes the fucking oils. He didn't say yeah its ok, but it will sludge up your engine. He said it's fine. No problems. You're little theory about it causing sludge is horse shit dude.

If you wanted to go bungee jumping, would you go to "The Walmart" and buy a bunch of bungee cords, tie them together and go jump off a bridge? No, you'd go get a bungee cord for bungee jumping and do it the right way. That's what flushing your motor with diesel fuel equates to, rather then doing it the right way like I said, which is totally fucking different from what you said. Go buy any commercially available engine flush, read the fucking instructions, read the contents as follows(in order): Petroleum Distillates, KEROSENE, etc. Then kindly take the bottle and shove it up your ass.

The diesel fuel is being used as a solvent, because you are using it to dissolve the deposits in the deposits in the engine. WTF do you think the point of a flush is? Here, read this, retard :hammerhttp://www.thefreedictionary.com/solvent

And for your information, I am an ASE certified mechanic, have been wrenching since I could walk. I ran a Corvette restoration shop for 4 years, rebuilt LOTS of motors there, also maintained 3 SVRA/HSR race cars, rebuilt motors/trannys and diffs for the owner. 700hp dry sump big blocks, face engagement trannys, shit you probably have never seem in Pennsyltucky. Not to mention all the shit I have done for myself. So fuck you and your "back yard go-cart motors" comment.

As far as me "making you look stupid", I'll leave that one alone because your doing a damn fine fob of that one yourself. Next time, I suggest you know WTF you are talking about, and who you are talking to before you start spouting off BS and calling people retards.

Wow. I thought I was getting all hot and bothered! :D

Still, the fact remains that an engine flush as described is not exactly appropriate for motorcycle engines.

--Wag--

Well, when the ballbag wants to start calling me retard he can go eat a dick.