I have a 1986 GSXR1100 which has been fitted with 91'ish 17" wheels and forks. From what I remember the rear brake caliper/rotor are 1st gen, so I figure spacer and brake hanger are also.

I just watched a new EBC rotor go off on an auction that I snoozed on it. I saw this one which is kinda cool (street fighter) . Can I just swap out the brake hanger and retain the same caliper?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280332822766&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

Pos

Don't know if this helps, but the caliper is 1st gen, the Rotor is first gen but the wheel is 17x5.5" off the 90-91 curved 3 spoke.

Basically I need to know if a simple brake hanger is all that is needed to swap to the larger rotor for 89+.

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/86_GSXR_1100/Rear_Brakes.jpg

Pos

i know you, and i will say that you really need to know exactly what hanger and rotor are fitted to your bike. it does make a difference.

first gen brake hangers are different than second gen brake hangers, to account for the 20mm difference in rotor diameter.

the auction makes no mention of diameter, so we are to assume that it is a 240mm (i don't like to assume, though). in that case, you will need a second gen hanger, if you indeed have a first gen.

post fotos and i will tell you what you have.

you read my mind! first gen stuff.

yes, that is all you need. i think i have one. pm me.

5.5 rear - will you post a pic from the rear - i had a 4.5 on my last 1st gen but want something wider - just want to see how much room is left - what tyre is it wearing 180? i dont think youd get a 190 on safely

cheers

The 180/55-17 fits much better on a stock 1st Gen 1100 swing arm than it does on the GS1100E :crying.

Anyway i can snap a shot later this afternoon. What clearance are you worried about? Oh yea right the closest clearance .

I have an underbraced Gixxer arm, that I plan to put on ; just not there yet.

Pos

Any opinions on that fancy GSXR rotor?

Here are some pics. Teh GS1100G already had the 17" wheel conversion installed so I dont know if anthing other than slapping it on the rear was done (spacers or offset sprocket) nor do I know what is required for a Gixxer.

There is a stick of staples between the right hand side whch is 0.410" wide.

Looks like the 530 chain is about 0.200 from the time. No evidence of hitting.

There doesn't seem to be any frame drag/alignment issues.

If a 190 would fit it would only be after the chain is offset (see at least).

Last goodie is something I have been working on for the 1100 streetfighter. :punk

Pos.

heres your clearance with a 190....
Hell, cant find the right pic. But its got about 2mm clearance on the chain.

So 190 fits with a full 2mm on 530 chain and no offset sprocket? What brand tire? Pirelli?

What brand tire? Pirelli?

I believe that is a Traumahawk on there in that photo.

I think I saw a Traumahawk out here


http://www.youtube.com/user/Nothingpersonalmovie

U have to push the button.

Maybe that is called thumperhawk instead ?

It was a Tomahawk. And they dont make the colored sportbike tires any more.
I went back to running 180's though. As they have a larger contact patch, and a noticable quicker turn it than the 190's do.

So I'll stick with the 180 then; thanks

on a 5.5 inch wheel, stick with a 180.

i would not run that rear rotor on my bikes.

not all 180 rear tires are the same width, but most will fit the first gens with a slight bend of the rear brake torque arm.

Marko makes a good point. I forgot about the brake arm, as mine does not use one. And a 5.5 rim is made for the 180, not a 190 actually. A 190 should be mounted on a 6.0 or 6.25" rim to keep the correct profile. just some food for thought guys...

Hey, I don't mean to hijack the thread but I just put the 17" rear with a 180 on my first gen and I'm trying to figure out the best way to put a bend in the torque arm. Any tips?

Thanks,

I have never done it, but if I had to I would mark the control arm for where it needs to bend around the tire (basically 4 places) two to go out and two to go in.

I would put the arm in a vice between two pieces of wood (like plywood) where the wheel is supposed to go and make the first bends(both sides). Then move the arm so the wood is at the extreme outsides and re-bend the ends.

The wood keeps from scratching the arm and does not create a stress riser like the vice would.

Same process for a steel arm, just a little more force or a hammer required (use wood again).

Pos

Hey that's pretty much what I started with last night. A carpenter Pencil to mark my bends and a vice. My soft jaws are a couple of squares of 1/2" plywood but as I was applying pressure, I thought hey, I'm only going to get this right once... I better check with the gang at Gixxer to make sure I'm not messing this up.

Thanks :cheers

My 87 750 came with a 190 rear tire and it clears everything barely - someone must have bent the brake arm though.

The tire's almost worn out and will be replaced by a 180, but it's good to know a 190 will fit.

Ive run 190s B-Stones on 5.5 rear wheel on both the daily and the racebike. It adds a little ride height, and has a larger contact patch at full lean. I couldnt even notice the slower turn in on my bikes... Its not that big of a deal to bend the brakearm out a little bit. I use a floor jack to bend the arms, raise the jack, stick the arm in, lower the jack, and then step on the end sticking out. Pretty simple really, just plan ahead to so youre bending it where you want to...