Hi ya guys & Gals,

Ive been told that my Carbs need balancing on my 1995 gsxr750ws?!?!??! http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/idea.gif
Well Ive been rifing for about 6 months on this beast and havent got a clue!

Do I need to book it in to a shop for the work or can I do it my self?

summer is coming and I got lots of work to do on the bike and I got a really tight budget as Im having a baby in may! well my wife is not me http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Please help!

also Ive been told I need the following, im in the UK any ideas apart from ebay where I can get these cheap as chips???

* Front discs (both warped? dont know how)
* rear can (baffles blow) got 2 spring connections
* steering bearings (learning how to wheel I guess.. had some bad landings)
* head light (the bit that reflects the light that sticks out is broken)
* oh and the carbs balancing??? pass http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cry.gif

Please please help.

carb-balancing itself is not difficult to do really, but you will need vacuum-gauges (I prefer mercury-filled tubes/thingie called 'carb stix') and it will make your life a lot easier if you have some long, thin screwdrivers and an auxilliary fuel-supply. There's really no way that the carbs can go "out of synch" unless your valve-clearance has changed (the valves typically recess into the seats and close up the clearance- which slightly alters the cam-timing, which will affect the "synch" of your carbs. Long story short, if it needs synch'd, then it probably should have the valve-clearances looked at as well. The good news is that the average home-mechanic/tinkerer type can easily do it, the bad part is that you will want a covered (preferably enclosed and heated) space to work in as you will have the valve-cover off the top of the motor during most of the operation.

The end-can sounds like some sort of aftermarket type, and if so, it can simply be re-packed with fiberglass insulation (made specifically for this application) but you will need a drill and rivet-gun to get the thing apart and re-assembled.

Steering-bearings are easy to come by - http://www.ronayers.com has the best OEM pricing that I know of.

Keep scanning eBay for rotors - they are NOT cheap. Brand-new, EBC "oem-style" replacements can be had for $150 - $200 (USD) each.

Headlight-assemblies also show up on eBay from time-to-time and are often very pricey. If you're talking about just the halogen bulb, that bit is the easy part and should swap directly with any H-4 or 9003 automotive 55w/60w lo-beam/hi-beam bulb.