Well, the wife was working last night, so I headed out to the garage to actually hook up my flatslides, and I've got the fuel lines routed, but wanted to ask you guys:

1. Where do you get vacuum to operate the stock petcock? (Stock carbs have vacuum ports on them.)

2. What it the best way to manage the breather coming out of the valve cover?

3. It looks like the stock throttle assembly will work, until I do the whole R1 switch pod/race throttle setup. Is this true?

BTW, I've got 41mm Keihins (thanks Jim) going into 36mm 1100 boots. It's a bitch to get them in the first time, but once they're in, the boots don't look like they restrict anything (based on opening up the slides and peeking in.) In fact, the narrowest part of the intake, based on my extremely UNscientific observation, is the intake port itself.

duckboy said:

Well, the wife was working last night, so I headed out to the garage to actually hook up my flatslides, and I've got the fuel lines routed, but wanted to ask you guys:

1. Where do you get vacuum to operate the stock petcock? (Stock carbs have vacuum ports on them.)

2. What it the best way to manage the breather coming out of the valve cover?

3. It looks like the stock throttle assembly will work, until I do the whole R1 switch pod/race throttle setup. Is this true?

BTW, I've got 41mm Keihins (thanks Jim) going into 36mm 1100 boots. It's a bitch to get them in the first time, but once they're in, the boots don't look like they restrict anything (based on opening up the slides and peeking in.) In fact, the narrowest part of the intake, based on my extremely UNscientific observation, is the intake port itself.






1. Use a Pingle fuel valve (dual outlet)....... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

2. You can get a small breather filter..... heck I saw that Walmart was selling them the other day for like $10.00

3. I've never tried using the stock throttle with the Keihins but you can try it........ I suppose a write up and pics are in order for the R-1 switch conversion huh? http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gifsounds like you have the same carb size arangement I have... the actual inside diameter of the spigot is 37.5mm http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif If you don't have them already I suggest the red velocity stacks otherwise all the bike will wanna do is wheelie all the time.... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

i used my stock throttle assembly, the cable attachment point at the carbs has numerous holes to use depending on the cable length. i just shortened the to the minimum length and found the hole that seemed to fit best.

GixxerRacer317 said:


duckboy said:

Well, the wife was working last night, so I headed out to the garage to actually hook up my flatslides, and I've got the fuel lines routed, but wanted to ask you guys:

1. Where do you get vacuum to operate the stock petcock? (Stock carbs have vacuum ports on them.)

2. What it the best way to manage the breather coming out of the valve cover?

3. It looks like the stock throttle assembly will work, until I do the whole R1 switch pod/race throttle setup. Is this true?

BTW, I've got 41mm Keihins (thanks Jim) going into 36mm 1100 boots. It's a bitch to get them in the first time, but once they're in, the boots don't look like they restrict anything (based on opening up the slides and peeking in.) In fact, the narrowest part of the intake, based on my extremely UNscientific observation, is the intake port itself.






1. Use a Pingle fuel valve (dual outlet)....... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif





I was sondering if it would work in the stocker's "prime" position?



[/QUOTE]


2. You can get a small breather filter..... heck I saw that Walmart was selling them the other day for like $10.00

3. I've never tried using the stock throttle with the Keihins but you can try it........ I suppose a write up and pics are in order for the R-1 switch conversion huh?



[/QUOTE]

Yes, please.



[/QUOTE]

sounds like you have the same carb size arangement I have... the actual inside diameter of the spigot is 37.5mm http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif If you don't have them already I suggest the red velocity stacks otherwise all the bike will wanna do is wheelie all the time.... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

[/QUOTE]

I'm just doing filter pods for now...

They have a couple of versions......

one has "on" "off" & "Reserve"

The other just "On" & "off"

I have the "On" & "Off" version

OK I've gotta take it off for pics.....

For the vacuum, I had someone press fit a brass tube in one of the carb spigets going into the manifold. Works just like stock.

Greg

96gsxr1100 said:

For the vacuum, I had someone press fit a brass tube in one of the carb spigets going into the manifold. Works just like stock.

Greg




Oh yeah....... one of my spigots has a brass tube coming off of it...... I blocked it off though.

GixxerRacer317 said:


96gsxr1100 said:

For the vacuum, I had someone press fit a brass tube in one of the carb spigets going into the manifold. Works just like stock.

Greg




Oh yeah....... one of my spigots has a brass tube coming off of it...... I blocked it off though.



What they said. 'sow my bike is set up.

Well, it does work in "prime" (for now.) I turned her over a few times, and she didn't fire, then I remembered to squirt a little extra gas in with the accelerator pumps, and she started perfectly. Boy are these cool- rattling slides, intake noise, and even a louder exhaust (must be a lot more air going through, eh?)

I had to go for a ride! It was short, but boy, this thing is a lot faster! Even low in the rev range, there's more. The front gets REALLY light, even into second gear (I'm sure I could wheelie second without the clutch.) Still need to do a little sorting- it bogs a little if you open it up too fast.

Thanks to those who gave advice, and to those contemplating the mod, I highly recommend it. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

duckboy said:

Well, it does work in "prime" (for now.) I turned her over a few times, and she didn't fire, then I remembered to squirt a little extra gas in with the accelerator pumps, and she started perfectly. Boy are these cool- rattling slides, intake noise, and even a louder exhaust (must be a lot more air going through, eh?)

I had to go for a ride! It was short, but boy, this thing is a lot faster! Even low in the rev range, there's more. The front gets REALLY light, even into second gear (I'm sure I could wheelie second without the clutch.) Still need to do a little sorting- it bogs a little if you open it up too fast.

Thanks to those who gave advice, and to those contemplating the mod, I highly recommend it. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif



Yep that all sounds familiar to me!! http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif The violent acceleration is hard to forget.... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/oogle.gif http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/spit.gif http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

Duck sounds like old times again hey my OEM petcock in prime only produced a Trickle.
If your running 41's your'e gonna need a helluva lot more gas dude get a pingel.
A# 32GSXR-D-AH petcock has the reserve and you'll need a A1702C-0 adapter plate
But the guy from Pingel said the lever throw might have to be altered to get it to fit right.

Duck...

what technique did you use to put those flatslides in the 36 boots?...just wanted to compare my way...which took 2 days and some strained muscles

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cry.gif All I can say is I don't look forward to mounting the carbs inside the ram air box..... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cry.gif it's a bitch! the carbs barely fit in the airbox..... and they only fit in one way.... then you have to manuver the entire airbox into position. Tightening the boot screws is going to be a bitch! I need a setup like the SRAD models use where they have one longass bolt with a spacer between 1&2 cylinders so that the one screw tightens both boots. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Bobbychet said:

Duck sounds like old times again hey my OEM petcock in prime only produced a Trickle.
If your running 41's your'e gonna need a helluva lot more gas dude get a pingel.
A# 32GSXR-D-AH petcock has the reserve and you'll need a A1702C-0 adapter plate
But the guy from Pingel said the lever throw might have to be altered to get it to fit right.

He is 100% correct, you will need alot more gas then the stock petcock will offer. Get the pingel, you will need it http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Wait till you get her out on the road where you can OPEN it up, make sure you have your air filters on or you may get sucked into the motor http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

317
i slammed them in before into the 36's...took forever and everything hurt afterwards....ran open with stacks...never with the box.....for some reason i was told they wouldn't work with the airbox anyways because it would constrict direct air flow.....just find a long screwdriver and that always worked for me with no problems....you know how to do it....face the 1&2 clamps towards the left and the 3&4 on the right...you should have no problems what so ever.....since ducks' setup was more extreme....41 into 36 boots....that's huge compared to when i put 39 into 36 boots....just wondering what he did to get them in..... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Hey Onewheelrider.... I got a set of those #55 Grind Web Cams for my 907 and my engine guy is wanting me to bring the engine down to him so he can build it..... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

msthtd said:

317
i slammed them in before into the 36's...took forever and everything hurt afterwards....ran open with stacks...never with the box.....for some reason i was told they wouldn't work with the airbox anyways because it would constrict direct air flow.....just find a long screwdriver and that always worked for me with no problems....you know how to do it....face the 1&2 clamps towards the left and the 3&4 on the right...you should have no problems what so ever.....since ducks' setup was more extreme....41 into 36 boots....that's huge compared to when i put 39 into 36 boots....just wondering what he did to get them in..... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif



I'm not using a stock airbox.... it's the Airtech ram airbox that I'm talking about. The carbs fit inside the airbox...... I'm using the same 41mm into 36mm setup that Ducky has. I actually used a little oil in the boots to slicken things up a bit but it's still a bitch. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

317...
ok....i didn't know what setup you were referring to....i haven't seen that kind of setup with the ram air box from airtech....there's not too many cali guys or girls for that matter around the bay area in fact that have kept their old schools and put money into them.....everyone just upgrades.....they tell me that all day long...but i don't care....at least i don't have to make payments thats for sure......

you know i haven't tried oil yet because i'm just a little skeptical and might F it up and drop some into the manifold and just ruin something....with all the work and money spent...i don't want to have it sit for another year.....been using grease lightly

Can't you just use the intake pipes from a 750 (the 38mm ones) and make it easier. I am thinking of buying some flats when tax time comes around. I didn't know it was as much of a pain in the a** as you are describing.

317 - do you use any kind of filter at all inside your ram box with these carbs?

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

utp216 said:

Can't you just use the intake pipes from a 750 (the 38mm ones) and make it easier. I am thinking of buying some flats when tax time comes around. I didn't know it was as much of a pain in the a** as you are describing.

317 - do you use any kind of filter at all inside your ram box with these carbs?

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif



utp:
i did the same mod duck and 317 did back about a year ago.....now i actually got the 38 boots for my 39 fcr's soo hopefully i don't have to strain as much.. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

used the 38 boots on my 39's (1100w). i use this stuff called cable lube for pulling wires through conduit. menards, lowes ect. kinda like industrial k-y.

when looking inside the open boot there is the portion that goes around the carb and then it narrows to mate to the intake. i used some white out and painted the flange put the carbs on held the slides open and marked the proper inside diameter onto the white out. took the carbs off , the boots off and used an emery wheel to mate the boots to the carbs.

I did what GixxerRacer did- I used a little motor oil. It's an old racer's trick. It won't screw up your engine- the atomized fuel moving through the system cleans it up and burns it off.

As far as pushing them in, #1 and #4 cylinders are easier to get an angle on and wedge into, so I worked into both of those one at a time. Once you've gotten them in once, the boots stretch a little, making things easier the second time. With #1 and #4 stretched, I then just rocked the whole bank up and down to get #2 and #3 seated when the whole thing went in. I have a tool kind of like a large, carbide-tipped dental pick that I used to pull back some of the stubborn parts of the boots. Leverage is important here, too. I put the bike on a race stand, and stood on the pegs, alternately letting my weight push the carbs into position, and pushing against my elbows with my knees.

Yes, there were sore muscles afterwards, but it wasn't bad compared to my old VFR750, with the carbs wedged between the cylinders. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

OneWheelRider said:


Bobbychet said:

Duck sounds like old times again hey my OEM petcock in prime only produced a Trickle.
If your running 41's your'e gonna need a helluva lot more gas dude get a pingel.
A# 32GSXR-D-AH petcock has the reserve and you'll need a A1702C-0 adapter plate
But the guy from Pingel said the lever throw might have to be altered to get it to fit right.

He is 100% correct, you will need alot more gas then the stock petcock will offer. Get the pingel, you will need it http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Wait till you get her out on the road where you can OPEN it up, make sure you have your air filters on or you may get sucked into the motor http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif



There's a joke in there somewhere about sucking between my legs, but I'll just let it go...I will be ordering the Pingel soon.

rocket science said:

used the 38 boots on my 39's (1100w). i use this stuff called cable lube for pulling wires through conduit. menards, lowes ect. kinda like industrial k-y.

when looking inside the open boot there is the portion that goes around the carb and then it narrows to mate to the intake. i used some white out and painted the flange put the carbs on held the slides open and marked the proper inside diameter onto the white out. took the carbs off , the boots off and used an emery wheel to mate the boots to the carbs.



Wow, you must be some artist with the grinder to create a good sealing surface with the grinder and replicate the internal lip of those boots! http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

utp216 said:

Can't you just use the intake pipes from a 750 (the 38mm ones) and make it easier. I am thinking of buying some flats when tax time comes around. I didn't know it was as much of a pain in the a** as you are describing.

317 - do you use any kind of filter at all inside your ram box with these carbs?

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif



To me fitting any carb into an intake boot is a pain in the ass...... whether it's a flatslide or a CV carb rack.

On my setup I am only using Velocity stacks (30mm)........ once I have the ram airbox installed I am going to place some wire mesh and thin filter material over the two intakes on the ram airbox......

i did not change the diameter of the the flange where it goes onto the carb, just the intake diameter to match the i.d. of the carb. menards has emery wheels that are 3/4 or 1 in. with the larger ones it leaves a smooth radius unlike the smaller ones that leave alot of small divots. the individual boots can then be slipped onto the carbs one at a time, while both are off the motor, using a mark to ensure proper alignment when reinstalled, and with the slides open determine where a little more needs removed. this took a little time but is not that difficult at all. if you have the head off the boots can be matched to the head alot easier with the same stuff. i stuffed rags into the intake re installed the boots and used the emery wheel to match them to the intake, took off the boots, cleaned with a shop vac, pulled the rags and then sprayed them out with brake cleaner. brake cleaner is safe for rubber unlike most carb cleaners. 36 mm i.d. boots with 39mm or 41mm carbs would seem to an obvious restriction to flowing the amount to exploit the carbs. i do not have data to support this but it seems logical. this was manditory with the old gs's as the boots were tiny. i spent less than $10 on the emery wheels and used them in a air grinder slow speed but the same could be done with a drill. i will be dissassembling my motor soon i will try to get some pics.

Not sure of watercooled boots, but....

On oil-cooled gsxrs, the 36mm boots are just fine for 38 and 40mm cv's. (Both have the same OD btw). I'm using 36mm boots with 40mm CV's. I also had a set of 38/40mm boots, and they have a small edge where the id of the carb meets the boot, disturbing flow. Not so with the 36 boots, where the id of the carb matches perfectly with the boots.

Besides, the smallest point on the intake tract is the valve/head itself, so a nice cone-shaped intake tract (achieved with the 36mm boots matched to the head ports) is better than what you'd get with the 38mm boots....

My opinion anyway....

flaco said:

Not sure of watercooled boots, but....

On oil-cooled gsxrs, the 36mm boots are just fine for 38 and 40mm cv's. (Both have the same OD btw). I'm using 36mm boots with 40mm CV's. I also had a set of 38/40mm boots, and they have a small edge where the id of the carb meets the boot, disturbing flow. Not so with the 36 boots, where the id of the carb matches perfectly with the boots.

Besides, the smallest point on the intake tract is the valve/head itself, so a nice cone-shaped intake tract (achieved with the 36mm boots matched to the head ports) is better than what you'd get with the 38mm boots....

My opinion anyway....





This is pretty much how w/c bikes are, but I didn't explain it as well. Also, the spigot walls are much thinner on flatslides than on cv's, so the boots don't have to be as large.

I'm running 38's in 36mm boots on my oiler, and I use these clamp-on style light-fixtures all over the garage to help light things while I'm working... I usually clamp one of those to the frame-rail and let it shine down on the boots and cyl-head for a while before I go to re-install the carbs, and I also use a littls squirt of air-filter oil on the boots themselves - it gets easier once you've done it a few times because as mentioned, the boots themselves stretch a little, and also you kinda get used to how it all goes together and which way to push/twist/grunt to get them to pop in-place.

Note that you WILL need larger hose-clamps for those carbs even with the 36mm boots (if you haven't alreayd done that).