what did you guys use to cut your fairings?? ive been holding off on geting them due to having to cut my fairings..i was told to get a laser and set it up to shine in the bolt hole then put the fairing on and mark the hole ??? any help?? i know this should of been my first thing to buy but i figure if i go down hard enuff it wont matter anyways, but ive seen it help alot more then i thought..

what did you guys use to cut your fairings?? ive been holding off on geting them due to having to cut my fairings..i was told to get a laser and set it up to shine in the bolt hole then put the fairing on and mark the hole ??? any help?? i know this should of been my first thing to buy but i figure if i go down hard enuff it wont matter anyways, but ive seen it help alot more then i thought..



Read this, it will tell you everything you need to know.


http://www.rc51.org/slider.htm

you could for a nocut one... i think they should work fine at all. i dont think the difference in price is that much... since you live in US things are way easier for you

i just eyeballed it, drilled a small hole with a regular drill and drill bit and went from there with larger drill bits and a file. worked pretty well and i even messed it up tiny bit but you can't tell once the slider is on, or even just looking at it with the slider out for that matter, just one section of the circle is flat..

I just eyeballed it carefully. I could reach behind the fairing and feel the bolt, and used that to get a real good idea of where to make a small pilot hole, maybe 1/16" or so. Then I use a flashlight behind the fairing to look in the hole, and verify that it was right on the bolt.

Then from there I just used the proper size hole saw and let it do all the work.

On the right side it wasn't so easy, as there's aready a hole where you can see the bolt.

I used a hole saw the same size as the hole in the fairing to cut into a 2x4 long ways, then used a jigsaw to cut it down so there was a taper in the 2x4 where it came down to a 3/4" round end with a hole perfectly in the center.

Then I put the fairing over it and used that as the pilot hole to center the hole saw to cut the fairing.

I have woodcraft sliders, so I had to cut a pretty big hole, 2" if I remember right.

you could for a nocut one... i think they should work fine at all. i dont think the difference in price is that much... since you live in US things are way easier for you

i hear they snap off and wont hold up to a bad crash though..

you could for a nocut one... i think they should work fine at all. i dont think the difference in price is that much... since you live in US things are way easier for you

Stay far away from nocut sliders. That bracket is just going to act as a lever when you crash, multiplying the force on the motor mount bolt, and potentially doing more damage to the frame.

nice... thanks guys.....

I followed this thread (ignore the title .. it's wrong) ...

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128338

... on my 07 750 using shogun sliders.

-Doug

Woodcraft's..............FTW!!!

I have the Vortex cut frame slidders used a hole saw. just take ur time because if u try to go to fast u will melt the fairings.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a235/JCID07/Picture.jpg

I had the dealership do it, so I know I wouldn't be the one to screw it up!!!

How much does the dealership charge for something like that?

How much does the dealership charge for something like that?

5 big ones

I had the dealership do it, so I know I wouldn't be the one to screw it up!!!

Wow. Nothing like having fat pockets to get stuff done at the dealer...

5 big ones


500 bux :wtf

are you shitting me?

btw, I have crashed tested the vortex, and they held up in the crash :cheers

5 big ones

:ohmy You're kidding right???? :dissapointed





I currently have woodcrafts as well, but have tested vortex and shogun cut type sliders and both worked well. Anything made from delrin should work well, but all crashes are different. And definitely stay away from no-cut type sliders.

Definately go with cut-style, as someone else mentioned the no-cut could potentially damage your frame or worse if you go down. the race or cut-style cost less and as for "ruining the resale value" these bikes don't have any to begin with. Had mine done at the stealership because I had heard and read too many stories of people stripping the bolts or worse the motor mount threads. Best thing is to support the engine with a floor jack as the slightest shift when you remove one bolt could be big $ to repair. Alot of people will say the engine won't shift and maybe it won't, but I decided not to chance it. Plus the stealership only charged me $48 to install them. Decided on the Motovation because they have a nice clean style, made of delrin, and the white lettering looks good to top it off.

i've heard about the motor shifting but i cant see that happining. not if you take one bolt at a time... right??

Right........it will lessen the chance of the motor shifting.

i've heard about the motor shifting but i cant see that happining. not if you take one bolt at a time... right??

That's the conventional wisdom, which is what I was addressing, but all you have to do is look around this forum. Lot's of guys have done their own and thought the same thing, until they stripped out a bolt or the threads inside the motor mount. Remember all is takes is a hairs width of a shift and you could fry something. When you remove one bolt even though the motor is still fully supported it is missing one crucial piece of the support structure. Maybe it will, maybe it won't, all I'm sayin' is don't take a chance. Either let the stealership do it, or support the engine with a sturdy floor jack, dont raise it so high as to shift the motor up, just enough to keep it at the same level after you remove the bolt as before. Ask your stealership what their labor rate per billed hour is and then negotiate, should only be a 1/2 hour job unless they wanna jack you.

+1 Everything ChristPower has said. The jack is cheap insurance. If you end up stripping out the bolt hole, you're likely going to have to pull the engine to get it repaired. Just use the jack to maintain the alignment so you can thread the slider bolt in by hand... at least to the point where you know it's started straight & not cross-threading.

+1 on no-cut sliders as well. Woodcrafts are the bomb. They take damage well, are just the right length so they won't cause undue leverage in get-off, and the pucks are a cinch to replace if you ever have to use them.

Upon advice form many riders on this board I pm'ed Dave Gowland (DGOWLAND on this board) and bought his sliders. I asked for a shipping quote, and he turned out to live 5 mins from me. I dropped in on a SUnday, and he sold me the frame sliders and swingarm sliders/spools, and installed them all and tourqued them, for an amazing price. Cost and service-he rocks!
My buddy installed his own with a hole saw and a pair of desk rings for running computer wires into your office desk. It looks like it came from Honda with the sliders on. See pics:
http://ca.geocities.com/luispontes@rogers.com/thebike/fs_throttleside1.jpg

Those rings are a great idea, Omni! That looks very professional.

Stay far away from nocut sliders. That bracket is just going to act as a lever when you crash, multiplying the force on the motor mount bolt, and potentially doing more damage to the frame.

No trueeer words have ever benn typed, I used a drimell tool eyeballing what I wanted to take off and went for looks great

Upon advice form many riders on this board I pm'ed Dave Gowland (DGOWLAND on this board) and bought his sliders. I asked for a shipping quote, and he turned out to live 5 mins from me. I dropped in on a SUnday, and he sold me the frame sliders and swingarm sliders/spools, and installed them all and tourqued them, for an amazing price. Cost and service-he rocks!
My buddy installed his own with a hole saw and a pair of desk rings for running computer wires into your office desk. It looks like it came from Honda with the sliders on. See pics:
http://ca.geocities.com/luispontes@rogers.com/thebike/fs_throttleside1.jpg

Damn looks good how is that Omni running I had a Charger Shelby myself biggest mistake in selling it