I was wondering if this has happened to anyone else and if it has, do you have any advice.

I brought my 01 GSXR-750 to a local shop "Sky Cycle" in MA to get an oil change last year. After paying $95.00 for an oil change i decided to do it myself this year. When I tried to unscrew the oil drain screw, I knew something was wrong. Whoever changed the old last time tightened the oil drain screw on way too tight, which stripped all of the threads. Now I can't even put the screw back on tight enough.

Some have recommended to tap and re-thread the hole. Is that going to be strong enough to hold the new screw in at high RPMs?

Not good news... I am in the same position. I recently bought a 03 gsxr750 and the person before me tighted the bolt so hard it stripped my threads out. Here is my thread: http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185538

Mine is in the shop getting a new oil pan replaced right now. Going to be expansive oil change when all said and done.

Face the facts and just buy a new oil pan. It will be cheaper and last longer in the long run. From what I have seen and heard they are not that hard to replace. I took mine to the shop and they took the pan off before I could tell them that I would do it.

Sorry and hope this helps you out!

I just had the same problem last month. A new pan is $112 in the USA, and $225 in Canada. I took it to a machine shop. 20 minutes and $20 later, the hole was drilled, tapped, and had a stainless steel threaded heli-coil installed, that will assuredly last and hold longer and better than the soft aluminum threads that were in there before.

The rpm levels don't matter at all. The bolt does nothing more than hold oil in. be sure to get a new crush washer (less than $1.00) every oil change. Also, don't torque the bolt any more than 16 ft lbs....there is no need to reef it tight

hope this will help you out go to your local parts store 'got mine from Advance Auto Parts' and pickup a HELICOIL spark plug thread repair kit in 14mmx1.25 Part Number: 5334-14 will come with a tap and three different length inserts the middle length one is perfect. tape out the stripped hole and take an old spark plug and screw the insert on it thread it in until the spark plug bottoms out, gently unscrew the plug take the seating tool included in the kit and stake the insert and your done. have used this repair many times with great success

guys... they do make self tapping oil plugs.. a friend of mine hade a 01 600 and he stripped the threads out of the pan... i went to the loacal auto parts store and got a self tapping oil plug... problem solved.. why spend all that cash on a new oil pan... i.m.o

guys... they do make self tapping oil plugs.. a friend of mine hade a 01 600 and he stripped the threads out of the pan... i went to the loacal auto parts store and got a self tapping oil plug... problem solved.. why spend all that cash on a new oil pan... i.m.o

+1000

Ever heard of a helicoil insert ? That is the road I would choose. This happened with my dirtbike and I have had no problems since. If you are interested I can tell you more about it

hope this will help you out go to your local parts store 'got mine from Advance Auto Parts' and pickup a HELICOIL spark plug thread repair kit in 14mmx1.25 Part Number: 5334-14 will come with a tap and three different length inserts the middle length one is perfect. tape out the stripped hole and take an old spark plug and screw the insert on it thread it in until the spark plug bottoms out, gently unscrew the plug take the seating tool included in the kit and stake the insert and your done. have used this repair many times with great success

this is the route i took.

seems like all are ways will work:cheers

Did you get it fixed?

I'm having to replace my oil pan right now. My question to any one that can tell me. Do I have to use some type of sealer with the gasket when securing the new pan to the engine?

my busa did the same...get yourself a heli coil kit..the size you want is standard car sparkplug size which is handy..you can even do it on the side stand..makes a much stronger job..i dont use the standard suzuki plug washer either-thats the start of the problem coz they are weak and leak to easy..use whats known as a dowty seal for hydraulics..ford mondeos (uk) and other cars use them as sump plug washers as standard..they are metal with a rubber double sided gland inserted into them and cost very little...fit straight over the suzuki plug...:biggrin

Waste of money for a new pan! The threads are aluminum and this will bound to happen again.. A stainless helicoil would be the best way to go!.. ..

I stripped the oil pan also...I tried getting that spark plug kit and it only made everything worse. IT CRACKED THE OIL PAN! The insert doesnt quite fit into the newly threaded hole. UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
btw I have an 06 gsxr 600

I stripped the oil pan also...I tried getting that spark plug kit and it only made everything worse. IT CRACKED THE OIL PAN! The insert doesnt quite fit into the newly threaded hole. UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
btw I have an 06 gsxr 600

did know one hear me???/ like i said above a fix like it never happend is using a self tapping plug... and your oil pan would not have cracked

did know one hear me???/ like i said above a fix like it never happend is using a self tapping plug... and your oil pan would not have cracked

Tapping the stripped pan caused the pan to crack. The tap was too long.

You need to drill the hole the proper size for the tap to not exert too much pressure making it crack.. You probablt tried tapping it right after the threads were junk.. Think about it, they have to tap it somehow...

Tapping the stripped pan caused the pan to crack. The tap was too long.

no no.. i mean you can get a self tapping plug.. what it is a drain plug that taps new threads... i have used a thousands being a mechanic for 20 years . the last one i put in was on a 07 -750 the owner used to service his own bike and over tightend one to many times.. the first time you go to put it in its just like using a tap.. but after that it feels like the stock one used to...

Also, don't torque the bolt any more than 16 ft lbs....there is no need to reef it tight

so, how do you gauge 16 ft lbs? if you are doing it by hand how can you know when its tight enough or not, or tightened to spec?

so, how do you gauge 16 ft lbs? if you are doing it by hand how can you know when its tight enough or not, or tightened to spec?

With a torque wrench. If you're going to do your own work on your bike you should definately get one. You can pick up a halfway decent click type at Home Depot for around $40. Or you can get a digital Snap-On for $300.

For the mechanical engineers, 16 lbft means 16 lbs of force exerted radially from 1 ft away. So if you have a 1ft long breaker bar, or ratchet and placed 16 lbs of force on it at the end, you'd be torquing @ 16 lbft. Or 32 lbs at 6 inches.

With a torque wrench. If you're going to do your own work on your bike you should definately get one. You can pick up a halfway decent click type at Home Depot for around $40. Or you can get a digital Snap-On for $300.

For the mechanical engineers, 16 lbft means 16 lbs of force exerted radially from 1 ft away. So if you have a 1ft long breaker bar, or ratchet and placed 16 lbs of force on it at the end, you'd be torquing @ 16 lbft. Or 32 lbs at 6 inches.

thanks... i'll have to get one

no no.. i mean you can get a self tapping plug.. what it is a drain plug that taps new threads... i have used a thousands being a mechanic for 20 years . the last one i put in was on a 07 -750 the owner used to service his own bike and over tightend one to many times.. the first time you go to put it in its just like using a tap.. but after that it feels like the stock one used to...

what size tapping plug did you use?

Wouldn't a self tapping plug get metal shavings in the pan possibly?

Correct - any tapping or drilling will get metal shavings into the case.
Be very careful about doing it :-)

Magnet will not catch aluminium shavings, so flush your oil very well after doing any of the above methods!!

If I use the self tapping plug, does the whole crush washer thing still apply??

If I use the self tapping plug, does the whole crush washer thing still apply??

Yes. The crush washer is a seal between the drain plug head and the oil pan.

-Doug

guys... they do make self tapping oil plugs.. a friend of mine hade a 01 600 and he stripped the threads out of the pan... i went to the loacal auto parts store and got a self tapping oil plug... problem solved.. why spend all that cash on a new oil pan... i.m.o

Thats what I did, and also used rubber washer instread of the crush. I've had no issues since.

good information here. thanks guy

I'm normally very skeptical of these sorts of "too good to be true devices" but I can find every reason why this should work and none why it shouldn't. I can actually perform an experiment/ demonstration with my own motors as to how and why it would work and get results which confirm the principal.

If you're talking about the self-taping drain plugs, they've been around FOREVER.. Nothing new here, tried and true..

Make sure to get it started as straight as possible in the beginning and you won't have a problem.

Take it back out and hit it with a hard nylon brush where the threads are, find some cheap or used oil that came out of the bike and pour it back through to flush anything out that might have come loose..

Ready to go.

The pans crack because there is only a wall of metal formed internally around the thread hole. Some spark plug thread repair kits have two tap sizes on the same tap shaft. The manufacturer states no drilling required, but that is for spark plug ports which usually have much more metal around them. The original stripped hole in the pan is likely to be slightly undersized and have a little more metal in it than a correct drilled hole for that tap size.

Stripped mine on my '05 1K years ago. Time-Sert fixed it with no problems since.
http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html
http://www.timesert.com/