Has anyone used Royal Purple in their bikes, if so how did they work with it, more power and cooler temp like they say

smells nice, used it on an old bike, functions like oil.

rather use motul 5100 on my bikes now.

i use it. the royal purple max-cycle full synthetic is the best oil i have used in all my years of riding. the big plus is the shifting. nice and smooth, no notchiness to speak of. as far as the cooling and more power are concerned, i haven't seen any noticable difference.

Anyone ever use Royal Purple XPR 10w-40, extreme preformance racing?

Hope this is helpful...Thanks Tim

http://amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf?zo=1181889

i have seen that report already, and they list Royal Purple Max-Cycle, not the XPR.

i have seen that report already, and they list Royal Purple Max-Cycle, not the XPR.

The reason for not testing the XPR is because it is not rated for motorcycles most likely, as the whitepaper test is just for motorcycle specific oils.
george
ADG

The tech. representative at Royal Purple said they did not pay to have the JASO certification because the XPR surpasses what is required by the JASO spec. He said the XPR is wet clutch compatible, and is what they recommend in motorcycle circle track and road racing applications.

I would ask for a Document from the company supporting that. If it is so, they will have no problem Faxing or Emailing that to you...

Bob Schultz

.

The tech. representative at Royal Purple said they did not pay to have the JASO certification because the XPR surpasses what is required by the JASO spec. He said the XPR is wet clutch compatible, and is what they recommend in motorcycle circle track and road racing applications.

NOT TO NOCK AMSOIL OR ANY OTHER OIL MANUFACTURER, BUT AMSOIL TECH. REPRESENTITIVES CLAIM THE SAME THING, THEY SURPASSE REQUIREMENT THEREFORE NO NEED FOR CERTIFICATION, WHICH IS A TOTAL CROCK OF SHIT, WHICH A LOT OF GULIBLE PEOPLE BY INTO. "HEY, IT'S THE MOST POPULAR PRODUCT OUT THERE, SO IT MUST SURPASSE REQUIREMENTS" LOL !!! YEAH I KNOW THE WHOLE EXPENSE SPILL TOO, DONT THESE OIL MANUFACTURER'S MAKE ENOUGH TO PAY THESE EXPENSES? " YEAH, BUT ITS TOO MUCH, LOL" ARE YOU CERTIFIED OR NOT, PERIOD !

Anyone ever use Royal Purple XPR 10w-40, extreme preformance racing?

I use the XPR in my 03 vw gti. Seems to work awesome. Can deff feel a little more power...

NOT TO NOCK AMSOIL OR ANY OTHER OIL MANUFACTURER, BUT AMSOIL TECH. REPRESENTITIVES CLAIM THE SAME THING, THEY SURPASSE REQUIREMENT THEREFORE NO NEED FOR CERTIFICATION, WHICH IS A TOTAL CROCK OF SHIT, WHICH A LOT OF GULIBLE PEOPLE BY INTO. "HEY, IT'S THE MOST POPULAR PRODUCT OUT THERE, SO IT MUST SURPASSE REQUIREMENTS" LOL !!! YEAH I KNOW THE WHOLE EXPENSE SPILL TOO, DONT THESE OIL MANUFACTURER'S MAKE ENOUGH TO PAY THESE EXPENSES? " YEAH, BUT ITS TOO MUCH, LOL" ARE YOU CERTIFIED OR NOT, PERIOD !

Don't know how I missed this or maybe at the time I just shook my head and walked away...

AMSOIL has been tested and passed the JASO Certification, not just an MA but with an MA 2, the highest clutch rating available today.

Now we take a look at the rest of the body of the post..... Evidently, you don't know the whole "spiel".... An oil can have a "Self Certification" on the JASO MA Rating and it is quite legal as they use their additive suppliers certifications.. PERIOD!

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

Royal Purple does EVERYTHING it says it will do. Makes more power, runs cooler, gets better fuel economy...everything it says it will do. It achieves all of these things using one simple tool, CHLORINE. Chlorine, metal on metal, breaks surface tension. Doing so frees up power and things run cooler.

Having said that, here's why that's a bad thing.

Oils contain sulfur.

Sulfur+moisture+pressure+heat+= Sulfuric Acid

Acidity is the death of an oil. It's ability to withstand acidity makes it last longer and protect farther.

Royal Purple contains Chlorine

Chlorine+moisture+heat+pressure= Hydrochloric Acid


Sulfuric Acid is bad, Hydrochloric Acid is devastating.

Royal Purple makes your motor work better but at the accelerated death of your motor. Chlorine alone attacks bearing surfaces, gaskets, seal and yellow metals.

I don't know about you, I don't think it's worth it.

Royal Purple does EVERYTHING it says it will do. Makes more power, runs cooler, gets better fuel economy...everything it says it will do. It achieves all of these things using one simple tool, CHLORINE. Chlorine, metal on metal, breaks surface tension. Doing so frees up power and things run cooler.

Having said that, here's why that's a bad thing.

Oils contain sulfur.

Sulfur+moisture+pressure+heat+= Sulfuric Acid

Acidity is the death of an oil. It's ability to withstand acidity makes it last longer and protect farther.

Royal Purple contains Chlorine

Chlorine+moisture+heat+pressure= Hydrochloric Acid


Sulfuric Acid is bad, Hydrochloric Acid is devastating.

Royal Purple makes your motor work better but at the accelerated death of your motor. Chlorine alone attacks bearing surfaces, gaskets, seal and yellow metals.

I don't know about you, I don't think it's worth it.

:lmao

accelerated death? i use royal purple in every one of my bikes, and none of them have ever popped a motor, lost compression, or anything even resembling death in terms of the engine or transmission.

hell, my k3 1k had over 50k miles on it when i got rid of it, and it had royal purple in it from 1,500 miles on.

:lmao

accelerated death? i use royal purple in every one of my bikes, and none of them have ever popped a motor, lost compression, or anything even resembling death in terms of the engine or transmission.

hell, my k3 1k had over 50k miles on it when i got rid of it, and it had royal purple in it from 1,500 miles on.

Sounds like you changed it frequently. If you don't, you suffer the consequences.

Chemistry is chemistry, unless your machines are under a different set of rules.

Most people push the changes intervals, that's when you run into problems. Are they immediate, no. Are they a possibility, yes.

Sounds like you changed it frequently. If you don't, you suffer the consequences.

Chemistry is chemistry, unless your machines are under a different set of rules.

Most people push the changes intervals, that's when you run into problems. Are they immediate, no. Are they a possibility, yes.

changed it every 3,000 miles or so for street miles, and after every 2 track weekends.

changed it every 3,000 miles or so for street miles, and after every 2 track weekends.

The worst oil you can use in anything is Castrol GTX or Syntec. If you change it regularly and early, you never have a problem. If you don't, however, you put yourself in a bad situation.

I don't really care what anybody uses, I have my own preferences, I'm just sharing what may be pertinent info to the great unwashed.

I make no secret about my feelings of Royal Purple as it is not "all that".

I would like to know where you found the information about RP containing chlorine though.

You are correct about chlorine and its detrimental effects on an engine, but I know of no oil containing chlorine. If it is true, it is just one more reason to avoid an oil that does not perform well to begin with.


The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

The worst oil you can use in anything is Castrol GTX or Syntec. If you change it regularly and early, you never have a problem. If you don't, however, you put yourself in a bad situation.

I don't really care what anybody uses, I have my own preferences, I'm just sharing what may be pertinent info to the great unwashed.

OK... We really need to know where you are coming up with this info. They may not be the best oils on the market, but they are far from being as bad as you are making them sound.

Please point us to ASTM Tests to back and support your claims.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

OK... We really need to know where you are coming up with this info. They may not be the best oils on the market, but they are far from being as bad as you are making them sound.

Please point us to ASTM Tests to back and support your claims.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

GTX TFOUTS at 145mins which is the worst we've ever tested.


I'm a BG distributor and we've done our own testing.

Chlorine was the Slick50 trick which did end up causing damage.

GTX TFOUTS at 145mins which is the worst we've ever tested.


I'm a BG distributor and we've done our own testing.

Chlorine was the Slick50 trick which did end up causing damage.

So because it failed one test, it is the worst oil out there ? Please post information showing this along with the ASTM Test used.

I will take an oil the fails the Thin Film Oxygen test before one that shears out of grade any day. But remember, I don't like RP either but, I am just looking for supportive evidence to your claims. Please post ASTM Tests.

Don't believe Slick 50 had Chlorine in it either. It was loaded with Teflon though which caused bearing failures and siezed cams. I saw nothing in the FTC lawsuit, that Slick 50 lost, about engine damage caused by chlorine.


The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

I tried the RP stuff. I belive there are several UOA posted on the oil forms for it.

To date my top 3 in order are

1. Amsoil & Maxima Ultra
2. Redline

That was a AWESOME explanation. Thanks. I really like the Idea of royal purple but not with any specific negative on my motor like that.

Royal Purple does EVERYTHING it says it will do. Makes more power, runs cooler, gets better fuel economy...everything it says it will do. It achieves all of these things using one simple tool, CHLORINE. Chlorine, metal on metal, breaks surface tension. Doing so frees up power and things run cooler.

Having said that, here's why that's a bad thing.

Oils contain sulfur.

Sulfur+moisture+pressure+heat+= Sulfuric Acid

Acidity is the death of an oil. It's ability to withstand acidity makes it last longer and protect farther.

Royal Purple contains Chlorine

Chlorine+moisture+heat+pressure= Hydrochloric Acid


Sulfuric Acid is bad, Hydrochloric Acid is devastating.

Royal Purple makes your motor work better but at the accelerated death of your motor. Chlorine alone attacks bearing surfaces, gaskets, seal and yellow metals.

I don't know about you, I don't think it's worth it.

Things are starting to make sence now.

I'm not 100% behind synthetics, or even 60%. I'm sticking with what I know works, and works well.

Things are starting to make sence now.

I'm not 100% behind synthetics, or even 60%. I'm sticking with what I know works, and works well.

There is nothing to that statement that makes sense.

I agree that Royal Purple is not a great oil and, much of their advertising was pulled or BP was going to sue them but, that is not indicative of All Synthetics.

Petroleum oils have their place and synthetics have theirs. It is a well known fact that a good synthetic oil and a premium filter has benefits beyond petroleum oils.

If you don't believe in Synthetics, then you better never fly in a Jet engined plane.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

There is nothing to that statement that makes sense.

I agree that Royal Purple is not a great oil and, much of their advertising was pulled or BP was going to sue them but, that is not indicative of All Synthetics.

Petroleum oils have their place and synthetics have theirs. It is a well known fact that a good synthetic oil and a premium filter has benefits beyond petroleum oils.

If you don't believe in Synthetics, then you better never fly in a Jet engined plane.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

I disassembled a Harley motor having a catistropic failure. I found the crank broken in half at the pin. Never seen that before in decades of building these motors. Also same guy brought in his trans from his '98 Roadking saying it really hard to shift. I took it apart, couldn't find anything wrong but reshimmed the shift drum and replaced a hardly worn pawl. Still shifts poorly, ended up replacing with a Revtech 6 speed. The motor and trans were using the same brand oil, that for purposes of this conversation shall remain nameless.

I have seen several motor and trans issues related to synthetic oils first hand. I sell Amsoil, Revtech, Lucas, Redline synthetics. I also run them in my vehicles and did in my Porsche Carrera that I just sold for 7 years. Yes the Porsche crowd is dealing with synthetic issues as well, seepage, clattery lifters, and others.

I'd like to believe that synthetics are the best thing that happened to oil, ever, but the more I learn, the more disenchanted I become. I change the oil once a year in my cars or at about 7500 miles. Wife and I have 2 cars each, and I have a lot of bikes. I also add about 20% Parafin based oil to the syn when I do a change. Yes we all make more money selling $12 a quart oil than we do at $2.59, but at some point we have to push that a side.

Understand now?

No, I don't understand.

For one, you list several synthetics. I don't know who makes Revtech, so I can't comment. Lucas and Redline are poor oils to begin with.

You are blending oils which, should never be done.

You CANNOT classify all oils into the same category.

43,000 on my 07 Ultra... 10,000 plus mile oil change intervals. No problems, haven't even changed the cam chain tensioners. 75W-140 AMSOIL SVO in tranny until 32,000 when I went to 75W-110 SVT. Super Shift Type "F" automatic tranny fluid in the Primary until last change went to MCF 10W-40 and next change is ATF.

People can't believe how much better their tranny shifts with AMSOIL, regardless if it is a Harley or what.

My Gold Wing had Redline in it for years before I bought it. Even on fresh oil it had the Gold Wing "Clunk".. changed to MCF and it was much better.

Just did a show and everyone that stopped by who were already running AMSOIL said that the first thing they noticed when they changed was the smoother shifting.

I have a large Suzuki crowd in which their "Cruiser" tranny is horrible for 1-2 shift, especially the 109. We smooth that out.

First thing is to quit blending oils, next is to drop Lucas and Redline.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob