Well, hello... I'm new to the forum. I was planning on my first post being positive, but I guess not. Just bought a blue/white '08 GSX-R 600 about 2 weeks ago. It's my second bike. I absolutely loved it until today. Well, I still love it. Anyway, I decided to take it for a ride. I had been riding about 40 mins, I was not driving hard at all, I was 4 miles from home, I was going about 60 MPH down a backroad in 6th gear, and the low oil pressure light came on and the bike immediately died. I had ZERO problems before this. The bike was not acting funny at all before this. I pulled it off into a gravel driveway. It has good fuel (Chevron 89 Octane) and is just as full of oil as it was 2 weeks ago. Chain tension is good. The bike wouldn't start up since it threw a code. I called a wrecker, and it would've cost $100 for the 4 mile tow. So I pulled off the battery terminal so the computer would reset, then I started it and drove it easy the 4 miles home. Probably not the best decision, but I wasn't about to pay someone $100 for something that would take 20 mins of their time. The oil pressure light did not come on again. I called the dealer I bought it from, and I'm waiting for a call back. Any ideas/tips/advice? Now I'm afraid to ride it in case I get stuck somewhere even worse... Any ideas what could be going on?

Advice to to get your bike checked by the dealer ASAP. They have 12 month warrantee (sp?) right?

Yes.. they called back. They'll be picking it up for me next week. I hope it's a simple fix, whatever it is.

They can plug it in to the SDS tool and see what is going on and what is logged.

92 OCTANE OR BETTER doesnt your bike treat you good? then treat her good back she deserves the best...PREMIUM ONLY...but that shouldn't have made your bike do that, just tellin u to put the best in!

92 OCTANE OR BETTER doesnt your bike treat you good? then treat her good back she deserves the best...PREMIUM ONLY...but that shouldn't have made your bike do that, just tellin u to put the best in!

I agree.. she should be treated right. I just figured since the manual recommended 87 octane, 89 would be plenty.. doesn't octane just measure how much heat is required to ignite the fuel? If that's the case, wouldn't premium be pointless? Im not too mechanically inclined, but that's what I was taught...

best to run PREMIUM. if u get a bad batch of 87 or 89 hell 91 for that matter you could get some detanation with high compression. hell its only a few more cents a gallon and the bike doesnt take much to fill up.

It is actually best to run as low as octane as the bike manufacture will allow.

More octane does not mean more performance in fact it is the opposite.

I have to agree w/ rraiderr.. it just makes more sense. Why would they say you can use 87 if you shouldn't use 87? And yea, I guess a bad batch of any octane gas would be bad... it seems kind of pointless to always get premium just in case the gas is 'bad.'

he is correct but it doesnt take much to bring the ocatne level down in fuel. also you dont know what is really being dumped into the tanks at service stations. im sure when i put 91 in my bike or car its not truley 91. i work with fuel in the airforce so i see some cool stuff and how nasty some fuel is. and im not going to get into the crazy data on it either. but either way its your bike and what you do with it is totally up to you. :cheers

Dont freakout man, At our shop, I saw a ZX10 have a silly wire connection problem & was fixed in 10 minutes(bad connection under the seat) I dont remember exactly what it was, the mech next to me had the workorder.
Sounds like a bad connection of some sort since it threw a code and restarted ok and didnt happen again. To be safe, just leave it be until they get a look at it:burnout

Ok these squids are pissing me off. Don't listen to these kids about your octane man. Its got nothing to do with your malfunction. Run what the manual tells you to run and ignore the gomers.

It could be a number of things wait till the dealer looks at it. And for krisakes be careful who you listen to around this place especially. Must be a record for the most incorrect posts in a single thread.

the oil pressure light came on because the engine shut off. The issue is why did the engine shut off. The dealer will fix it easily if they are worth a shit.

also, your bike will run best on 87 octane FWIW.

lol they where not saying it was an octane issue we kinda got off track and started talking about fuel, simmer down.

Ok these squids are pissing me off. Don't listen to these kids about your octane man. Its got nothing to do with your malfunction. Run what the manual tells you to run and ignore the gomers.

It could be a number of things wait till the dealer looks at it. And for krisakes be careful who you listen to around this place especially. Must be a record for the most incorrect posts in a single thread.

+10 bro :cheers

Boost, you told the guy to run premium. That's dumb.

yes i did. thats my personal take on what he should run and you said Run what the manual tells you to run which is your take on it. im not going to get into a argument over what fuel he should run or what you or i should run its his choice and im just posting my .02

why bother with octane....try some cetane

oh wait, this thread is about oil pressure

nevermind

cetane now where talking :eek:

your on the right track. take it to the dealer and have them check it over. sounds like a faulty sesnor or wiring. im sure they will figure it out. you could always check the oil pressure yourself just to look things over.

yeh i suggest running what octane the manual says,
it could be a number of things.
it wont be serious

im anxious to find out, did u use motomans run it or the manuals

run the octane your manual recommends. Anything higher is a waste of money, will not burn as well, etc. It doesn't take much to bring your octane down either. Octane is the chemical formula that makes up the gas and they are tested regularly. The manufacturers also put in a safety margin so you could get away with a few octane lower, but just run what they recommend. Anything more is a waste of money completely.

yeh i suggest running what octane the manual says,
it could be a number of things.
it wont be serious

im anxious to find out, did u use motomans run it or the manuals

I've been using the "drive it hard" approach. I don't ride at high RPM's, but I just try to open it up every little bit. I shift through all the gears. I use the engine/tranny to slow me down as well as the brakes. I let her warm up to around 120. This'll probably start another deviation from the point of the thread.. :wacko I'm really hoping it's just some lose wire somewhere.. that'd be grrreat. But yeah, I appreciate ev1's tips. I'm not going to ride it anymore until it gets to the dealer. Only problem is it won't be taken there until this coming Thursday (I'm going to be out of town the beginning of the week.) Hopefully I'll know Thurs or Fri, and I'll be sure to let ev1 know what it was. Ride safe.....

lets see some pics of your blue and white

lets see some pics of your blue and white

I'll get some pics up ASAP. I can't until tomorrow... I won't be home from work till then.

Well, hello... I'm new to the forum. I was planning on my first post being positive, but I guess not. Just bought a blue/white '08 GSX-R 600 about 2 weeks ago. It's my second bike. I absolutely loved it until today. Well, I still love it. Anyway, I decided to take it for a ride. I had been riding about 40 mins, I was not driving hard at all, I was 4 miles from home, I was going about 60 MPH down a backroad in 6th gear, and the low oil pressure light came on and the bike immediately died. I had ZERO problems before this. The bike was not acting funny at all before this. I pulled it off into a gravel driveway. It has good fuel (Chevron 89 Octane) and is just as full of oil as it was 2 weeks ago. Chain tension is good. The bike wouldn't start up since it threw a code. I called a wrecker, and it would've cost $100 for the 4 mile tow. So I pulled off the battery terminal so the computer would reset, then I started it and drove it easy the 4 miles home. Probably not the best decision, but I wasn't about to pay someone $100 for something that would take 20 mins of their time. The oil pressure light did not come on again. I called the dealer I bought it from, and I'm waiting for a call back. Any ideas/tips/advice? Now I'm afraid to ride it in case I get stuck somewhere even worse... Any ideas what could be going on?
ther is a sticker right by the fill neck that says 90 octane or better..its one of the ones we all heatgun off

ther is a sticker right by the fill neck that says 90 octane or better..its one of the ones we all heatgun off

haha.. I guess I just never noticed.

my 600 says 95 in europe thats like 89 in america (standard petrol)

Just checked.. the sticker on the side of the bike says minimum 87 octane. I think 89/91 (mid grade) is a happy medium. Here's the pics

^^^ lol ^^^ check your oil it looks low 8)

^^^ lol ^^^ check your oil it looks low 8)

lol...No it's not low... in the pics, the bike's on the side stand. Bike has to be straight up to check the oil. When it's straight, the oil's at the full mark........ on the sidestand, you can't even see the oil.

so did you work out whats wrong with it?

- while u are waiting,

get ur hair dryer out, and remove the safety stickers, remove the 600 sticker, and take those orange reflectors off. and ur bike will look 100 times sexier

- while u are waiting,

get ur hair dryer out, and remove the safety stickers, remove the 600 sticker, and take those orange reflectors off. and ur bike will look 100 times sexier

Good advice. I was planning on it, but I wasn't sure what all I wanted to take off. WIll there be any junk or glue left on the paint and how easy would it come up?

Also, I'm currently outta town so I won't know the problem w/ the bike till this Thursday or Friday... maybe Saturday. Hopefully Thursd. It's perfect weather down here, and I couldn't even take the bike out of town. Getting kinda anxious...... :chucks

getting the stickers off is like trying to pry a sandwich away from rosie odonnel. The bike looks better when your done though!!

i just removed mine.. not to bad. a little bit of glue was left

It is actually best to run as low as octane as the bike manufacture will allow.

More octane does not mean more performance in fact it is the opposite.


Is that why people run race fuel with over 100 octane when they race because higher octane = less performance....???????


what

the higher the octane nuber the slower the burn

Is that why people run race fuel with over 100 octane when they race because higher octane = less performance....???????


what
no, when people have racing engines that develop a lot of cylinder pressure, they run the fuel that will give their engine the best performance, which is the lowest pctane that will not ping (detonate). running 100 octane race fuel in an engine such as a stock 600 will make less power than 87 will. However, if you put 87 octane in a superbike, it will cook itself in a couple of laps. The octane rating is (in layman's terms) a rating of how easily the fuel burns (flash point, burn rate). The higher the number, the harder it is to burn. An extreme example was an old wore out 125 mxer that I put some 116 sunoco in, and it would not even start.

bingo

yea soo 93 for a sport bike engine...which is a high performance engine..which is why it doesnt last as long as lets say a honda civic engine...is the best choice of gas..correct?

well i have my manual right here, recommends "95 octane or higher (research method)" -- i assume thats how they determine the octane..research method... then a bit lower it says "your motorcycle requires unleaded gasoline with a minimum pump octane rating of 90 ((r+m/2)method)." -- im guessing thats another method?.. maybe my manual is a bit different because im up here in canada.. but i thought we (can + u.s.)had the same fuel.. im pretty sure anything with a compression ratio as high at our bikes (12.5:1) you need a higher octane then your car (max. 10:1) to prevent preignition due to dieseling. .. cetane has a high autoignition rating... great for diesels but not for bikes.( i hope thats what you meant).

why race fuels run better in race bikes is because they run them a lot richer than you would run normal fuel ...example only... if every intake stroke of a normal bike was was 10ml of fuel mixed with air... race fuel would be 15ml of fuel and thats where the extra power comes from is the fact that physically more fuel is added to burn.

Because the bike ECU's on a stock bike uses a lookup table to meter the fuel to the engine it has no actual way of knowing you have changed to a slower burnrate fuel (i.e race fuel) and can not compensate by adding more fuel

alcohol funny cars run 7to1 air/fuel ratio
diesel motors might run upto 28 to 1 and still operate fine <-- technically incorrect
but Im not going to try explain diesel power.

ahh I know Im in for a world of shit posting this...

getting the stickers off is like trying to pry a sandwich away from rosie odonnel. The bike looks better when your done though!!

hahaha.. awesome. Rosie and her sandwiches....

well i have my manual right here, recommends "95 octane or higher (research method)" -- i assume thats how they determine the octane..research method... then a bit lower it says "your motorcycle requires unleaded gasoline with a minimum pump octane rating of 90 ((r+m/2)method)." -- im guessing thats another method?.. maybe my manual is a bit different because im up here in canada.. but i thought we (can + u.s.)had the same fuel.. im pretty sure anything with a compression ratio as high at our bikes (12.5:1) you need a higher octane then your car (max. 10:1) to prevent preignition due to dieseling. .. cetane has a high autoignition rating... great for diesels but not for bikes.( i hope thats what you meant).

600's take regular 87 and 750's take premium. Thats all there is to it. The higher the octane the slower it burns to make it more resistant to knock. You will get the most power running what the engine was designed to run on. People running premium on 600's are just throwing there money away and losing performance...especially with todays gas prices.

why race fuels run better in race bikes is because they run them a lot richer than you would run normal fuel ...example only... if every intake stroke of a normal bike was was 10ml of fuel mixed with air... race fuel would be 15ml of fuel and thats where the extra power comes from is the fact that physically more fuel is added to burn.

Because the bike ECU's on a stock bike uses a lookup table to meter the fuel to the engine it has no actual way of knowing you have changed to a slower burnrate fuel (i.e race fuel) and can not compensate by adding more fuel

alcohol funny cars run 7to1 air/fuel ratio
diesel motors might run upto 28 to 1 and still operate fine <-- technically incorrect
but Im not going to try explain diesel power.

ahh I know Im in for a world of shit posting this...


close but no cigar!!

race engines do not make more power by burning more fuel for a given amount of air. They burn more fuel and air per "gulp". The correct stoichiometry (a/f) ratio for gas is around 14:1.

this is the case for all gasoline. The difference is that the racing engine is tuned to build more pressure in the cylinder which equated to more power. the higher octane fuel resists detonating in the higher cylinder pressure environment, thus allowing the high performance engine to do its thing!!! In short, the higher the Brake Mean Effective Pressure or BMEP of the engine, the higher the octane rating needed for it to run properly without melting down.

close but no cigar!!

race engines do not make more power by burning more fuel for a given amount of air. They burn more fuel and air per "gulp". The correct stoichiometry (a/f) ratio for gas is around 14:1.

this is the case for all gasoline. The difference is that the racing engine is tuned to build more pressure in the cylinder which equated to more power. the higher octane fuel resists detonating in the higher cylinder pressure environment, thus allowing the high performance engine to do its thing!!! In short, the higher the Brake Mean Effective Pressure or BMEP of the engine, the higher the octane rating needed for it to run properly without melting down.

I dont disagree with what your saying but its off topic.
What I was saying is that the calorific value is higher in 87octane than in race fuel 100+ octane race fuel. Therefore you still need to add more fuel to any given engine to get your stoichiometry (a/f) ratio of 14:1.
The topic was talking about adding race fuel to a standard engine and getting less performance, not a highly tuned race engine.


hehe... so I think you owe me a cigar now :chucks

i just removed mine.. not to bad. a little bit of glue was left
WD40 and a very soft cotton cloth, takes some softening up but it is safe that way:thumbup

Well, hello... I'm new to the forum. I was planning on my first post being positive, but I guess not. Just bought a blue/white '08 GSX-R 600 about 2 weeks ago. It's my second bike. I absolutely loved it until today. Well, I still love it. Anyway, I decided to take it for a ride. I had been riding about 40 mins, I was not driving hard at all, I was 4 miles from home, I was going about 60 MPH down a backroad in 6th gear, and the low oil pressure light came on and the bike immediately died. I had ZERO problems before this. The bike was not acting funny at all before this. I pulled it off into a gravel driveway. It has good fuel (Chevron 89 Octane) and is just as full of oil as it was 2 weeks ago. Chain tension is good. The bike wouldn't start up since it threw a code. I called a wrecker, and it would've cost $100 for the 4 mile tow. So I pulled off the battery terminal so the computer would reset, then I started it and drove it easy the 4 miles home. Probably not the best decision, but I wasn't about to pay someone $100 for something that would take 20 mins of their time. The oil pressure light did not come on again. I called the dealer I bought it from, and I'm waiting for a call back. Any ideas/tips/advice? Now I'm afraid to ride it in case I get stuck somewhere even worse... Any ideas what could be going on?

Any news on what the issue was or what the dealer discovered?

Any news on what the issue was or what the dealer discovered?

Nope.. I just got back into town today. So they're picking the bike up today. I'll def let ev1 know once I know. I hope I'll know today.....

Well, the dealer finally got the bike and checked it out for two days straight, and they have no idea what the problem is. They said all connections are good, fluids are good, and they don't see any issues. I guess I gotta suck it up and keep riding, and hopefully it won't happen again.

That's pretty bizarre.

are you sure you didn't hit the engine stop swithc by accident??

are you sure you didn't hit the engine stop swithc by accident??

That's what i first thought I did, but it was in the on position when it died. Also, it wouldn't restart once it died. I had to d/c the battery to let the computer reset so it would start. Would it do that if I hit the kill switch?

no, but the engine would shut off and the oil light would come on like you described, so I figured I'd give it a shot.

Well, the dealer finally got the bike and checked it out for two days straight, and they have no idea what the problem is. They said all connections are good, fluids are good, and they don't see any issues. I guess I gotta suck it up and keep riding, and hopefully it won't happen again.

Did they use the Suzuki SDS tool to diagnose.

Did they use the Suzuki SDS tool to diagnose.

They said they did, and they said there wasn't a code in it.

They said they did, and they said there wasn't a code in it.

mabe when you disconected the battery you lost the code

You might have fixed the problem simply by disconnecting the batt & reconnecting. Possibly a bad Batt connection, Ive seen stranger things :dunno

mabe when you disconected the battery you lost the code

I assumed the code would be stored in permanent memory. Like a hard drive on a computer, and not in the RAM/ROM.

You might have fixed the problem simply by disconnecting the batt & reconnecting. Possibly a bad Batt connection, Ive seen stranger things :dunno

That makes sense. I hope it never happens again. I'll def check the batt connections when I get the bike back.