so I went and got a 97 tl100s for my first bike.I know i should have started smaller,but I got a good deal on the thing and I'm takin it slow.ok to start my questions for you pros.I ran one tank through it and it fouled out the plugs,probably both but didn't pull em yet.the bike is definatly running rich.the bike is back-firing bad.what is the cure for this?is this a fuel injection problem?also I pulled the lower fairing (guy added the R bottom fairing)and a little coolant coming out from the weeper hole,bad water pump?the bike has yoshi pipes on it,don't know if the guy had the motor tuned to them.also I paid 3200 for it with some small cosmetic issues that are already being taken care of.did I get the deal I thought I did?

Probably not a good idea to start with a 1000cc bike with tons of torque. Won't be such a good deal if you hurt yourself. My brother in law is doing the same thing. Your carbs probably need cleaned and maybe tuned for your pipes. I'm not sure about the coolant. Well be careful and have fun.

probably gonna get it running good,and trade it for a 600.that is really what I wanted,but everyone around here was selling their beat up 600's for 3-4K for a 97/98.going to the shop next thurs.,then getting a midnight black paint job.I don't have much trouble with the power of the bike.I'm just use to 4-wheels and I have some trouble turning it.I have yet to get on it.my top speed so far has been 75mph in second gear.that was on a straight,and I wasn't even on it long.just wanted to see what she could do.

I had a Honda VTR 1000 Firestorm for my first bike and it was great. The torque is awesome on those bikes for getup and go and for doubling ppl. Going to an older 600 might disappoint you with the power they provide. If your just looking for nice ride and easy corning bike then i would say go for it; but in time you will love your 1000 and the way they can keep up with some newer bikes if you ride them right:)

I'm on the fence as far as sellin it.but I do think a lighter bike would be better for me to ride.I got to commute 56 miles one way to work.I mean I will keep learning to ride on it,but if someone on a 600 or even a 750 would offer me their bike and some $$$ i would prob. do it.

Cycle World Superbike of the year 1997, TLS.

I'm gonna keep this thing.I'm getting used to it now.man these bikes are sweet!!!I'm still having trouble with it running.I had it in the shop,6 days after I scheduled an appointment the guy tells me he can't fix it cause it's fuel injected.DUH!!!so it goes into a suzuki dealer tomorrow.also,i found my coolant problem.it looks like a small amount of coolant is leaking from the the area where the bolt from the upper fairing goes into the radiator.I'm gonna wrap the bolt with some teflon tape and see how that works out.

See that patL1000s... A little time and man can adapt pretty quick to a sit down on that double bang her. YOu need to keep that rpm as low and smooth as possible, you crank the throttle and that knock-is-knock is on the gears is a single fire clunk is you ear ring that crank bearing is banging (hammered) instead of that smooth double fire is get that thing sync'd! And check it a lotto once running well. Make sure the valves are set before the test and then take a compression test. Then you go from there on your foul plugs guessing game where to look next.

Yeah, you are gonna be hitting a wall if the guy fixing it does not understand the basics are too simple and if I can figure that book out then anyone can. Why take it to anyone if you can tell the bike is running sweet and you just need to address that FI.

Beats me what the pop is if the guy even took a compression test and you should half paid for (at least that first step to the diagnostics written down on you work order for future ref is), that is the first thing you (do if you), have your trouble(s) is that bike is in for a die aggravating time is now chasing one's tail all day long for 6 days/weeks/months, (your bike hanging limp in hand).

Because you are locked out of the fuel injection system, basically. Your only option to the 3V's being, 'compression-spark-fuel' is that you can (only) check compression, (technically speaking). Everything else is taken over by the EC U catching that signal about knowing the basics now?

Zooo you need to look for a code download and see if it shows up inside "history" being made but you cannot see it. I do not know the product and the code pages and all that could be wrong with it. But tell me I don't know that motor in and out... We be cam timing without the book key look key and start the stop watch.

All kidding aside, I'm too slow on assembly to miss something so you win. But now we are pulling your chain because we are in limbo, Pat. Reason being that the compression and the pop is like two fold. Lean is that pop too. You saying the plugs fouling are that vapor trail out the pipe and when the flame front is out the exhaust, there is that heavy unspent all in a ball and boom! Or something close to cold air meeting warm air if that makes another variable roll a ball in your head to make the pop is sound is about not enough compression to fire of the fuel load is another popping variable being; (no codes set = no semi over-rich safe set running in the, "Fail-Safe").

So ear you telling me the guy signs off on the bike, (I've done it to being stumped in the electrics are not my strong pointing out I haven not a clue either). What was that compression test(?) you should demand (the numbers) being that it was an independent shop (or dealer level even steven)... How fast can those two numbers scream foul. :scratch :dunno

Foul breath talking back at chew at least admitting they tried to fix it. I would not fault them for trying. OK, now.... Show me the Compress in your head first step to fuel problems is that one number on the very last pound mark it down...

WOT is that numb is day fingers be typing that same old first thing you do is????? :chucks :hammer

Replace the spark plugs and get a new battery.