I am sure someone else has done , or knows someone who has stripped their drain plug bolt , whats the best fix???? any help would be greatly appreciated . .

if it's still in the oil pan, find a socket one size smaller, or a tiny bit smaller, nail that sumbitch onto the bolt, then take it off and replace with a new one.

the bolt is fine , it is the bottom of the motor casing that is stripped http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif the threads in the motor casing are stripped is what i meant to say . . .sorry

Most auto parts stores carry plugs that are slighly oversized that cut new threads as they're inserted. If you use this, just make sure to take your time, and remove it after you put it in to get the pieces of aluminum out. The work pretty well! http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/punk.gif http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

I had the same thing happen to me about a month ago. I decided to just replace the entire pan, instead of messing with rethreading. Ronayers got the parts to me in about a week for around $80, and the install was really easy.

I did the same thing to mine stripped out the pan...i just put that whit plumbing tape around it...and its holding up fine,notta drop has leaked out yet...ill prolly just do what the other guys mentioned and go one size bigger with the self threading bolt next time i change my oil....let us know what you end up doing though... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/punk.gif

JOE750 used my log in on accident but I was there when we discovered it. It was weird, the actual aluminum threads of the pan literally stripped right into the oil plug threads. I put my pinky up in the oil pan drain and it was smooth, no threads left at all. Funny thing is he never tightened the plug very tight. Are these threads truly that weak?
Good suggestion on the new oil pan.

Its a steel plug and an aluminum pan. Steel is much harder. It wasnt tightened to much, it was cross-threaded. Thats why the plugs threads had aluminum in them. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

A mate of mine stripped his Bandit 1200 sump plug a month or so back.
I Helicoiled it for him but we had to take the sump off to do it.

The oil pan is well known to strip out by just looking at it wrong. I bought a new 80.00 torque wrench that was broken (unknown to me) and I went cranking away and walla! Stripped!

I drained the oil out, took the pan off, and cleaned it up. Got all the shavings out and took the pan to a place that helicoiled that baby up. Used the same plug, and the threads are SO much stronger. Cost me like 15 bucks for the helicoil. I just don't want to worry about stripping out that aluminum again so thats why I heli'ed it.

haha...if you think your problems are bad, try leaving the bolt half way out and letting the motor seize up on you! http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

-=bmacd=-

JMMarich said:

I drained the oil out, took the pan off, and cleaned it up. Got all the shavings out and took the pan to a place that helicoiled that baby up. Used the same plug, and the threads are SO much stronger. Cost me like 15 bucks for the helicoil. I just don't want to worry about stripping out that aluminum again so thats why I heli'ed it.





Just for resolution: We ended up doing the same thing this weekend. Took the oil pan off the bike, took it to a local shop and had a hilicoil installed. Cost was about $20 for coil and labor. We took the bike apart ourselves which saved a lot of time and money. Treads are strong and we torqued the plug down to 22 lbs. Much better then having to buy a new oil pan.

dam what are you guys doing to your poor bikes. Yeah get a good torque wrench. but even tho someone mention they had a broken torque wrench that sucks. I just use the pinky method sure its not exact but no way its going to strip the pan either unless you put the plug in wrong. if your worried about it getting loose you could always saftey wire it..good idea