So im ready to dump an 1100 motor in my gix 750..... but wanna know which motor to go with, as in what year. I do want the one that yeilds the most power... keepin in mind that its not gonna go in as stock... no no....... So what should i do to it? i want crazy power
(R1 http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/piss.gifR1 http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/piss.gif R1 http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/piss.gif) yet everyday reliability, i also want to put her on the bottle. So

what do u say i should do? and how much should i be lookin into spendin? Any help or comments is appreciated.....

Thanx... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

i think you cant go past the bandit 1200 engine. You can get a newer one with less miles than an 1100 and the torque will make you wheelie crazy. I have a b12 that i standard except for an exhaust/jet kit, and i have no problems keeping up with r1s etc around town, its only on thw open roads they get faster. With the lighter weight of the 750 itd be even faster. Then you can go 1340 JE pistons, flatslides, headwork etc

You will want to stick with the Gix 1127 from 89'-92' or any B12 motor. I don't have any other experiance with motors other than my 92' 11. The only real problem I've had with it is spliting a shim, so stay with a motor with screw adjusters.

How much to spend...........How much do you got? Have a view at the candy store (http://www.gsxrzone.com/index.html) and put a second morgage on the house http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

Well fellaz... thanx for the info..... but i kinda need to now exactly what needs to be done to an 1100 motor for it to haual ass... somethin special u know !!!

Wheres the gods of 7/11 for this???

Thanx
Zane....

dude - they sky's the limit .
the amount of horsepower you can extract from a gsxr motor is directly proportionate to the amount of money you are able to spend .

you best bet is to speak to Jay from APE , or any number of tuners you have over there in the states.

if you want summat to scare you silly, then you should be looking at least a 1216cc big bore , flowed head , hot cams , flatslide carbs and a decent system.

or you could go the turbo route or nitrous or both !

it depends on how much ££ ( oops sorry - $$ ) you got & how big your balls are http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif.

But to be honest , even stock / mildly tuned 1127 motor in a 750 frame is enough to make you grin from ear to ear.

i'll second that! i got a stock 1100f lump in a 750wn frame and its mental http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Hey thanx for the replies fellaz.... i thought about it and i think im sorta set for what i wanna do. I know the balls r there but i hope the wallet could step up to the plate...

Again thanx guys........ http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

You can always build your fighter as a 750 then just switch to the 1100 later. The 1100 is a bolt in, but you do need to change the exhaust, black box, and carbs.

I was told that if im gonna modify the 1100 with cams, p&p and all the works then im gonna fall in reliability isues and that the engine wont last, and i really dont want that. is that true? if so, then what would be the best mild set up to do where i can get great power also keep my stock clutch. Basicall let say for $2000...what can i do or what should i do?

Thanx........

reliability is a cocern but shouldn't really be a factor as long as the engine is serviced in an appropriate fashion. The more power you make the more in-depth your servicing should be. Why not before you go into tuning your motor strip and rebuild it properly, replace all the crank shells after measuring with plastiguage along with the big-ends. Match the inlets to the manifolds. Measure the squish and if necessary skim the barrel to get it to around 1.3mm clearance (think thats right but check the manual). Cut holes in the cankcase webs between cylinders1-2 and 3-4 to cut pumping losses. Crack test (magnaflux) lighten and balance the crank. Grind off any casting marks, polish, shot peen and radius the conrods. Check the cams for true, fit adjustable sprockets and dial in. lightly regrind the valves. Check the spark timing is accurate. Check piston clearances and rings.

All the above if done properly will make the engine more reliable and produce more power. It seems pointless to me doing a big bore, p+p and cam job if the engine isn't running properly in the first place.

He's right dude http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif