This is my attempt at a write up on setting cam timing if anyone has any suggestions let me know and I'll post it up here. I finally set the timing on my engine that's been sitting out of the frame so I don't have anymore excuses to not put it back together (of course until I get some frame bolts) so here it goes.
You'll need a:
10mm, 8mm, 6mm & 5mm allens
10mm, 14mm sockets (i used my cordless impact for the 10mm and a socket for the 14mm)
2 zipties
A manual would help TONS
http://gixxer750kid.clubredr.com/Pictures/Bike/Timing/DSC00622.jpg
I also used this guy :)
http://gixxer750kid.clubredr.com/Pictures/Bike/Timing/DSC00633.jpg


First you start off by taking off the six bolts that hold on the valve cover, and the valve cover.
http://gixxer750kid.clubredr.com/Pictures/Bike/Timing/DSC00625.jpg
http://gixxer750kid.clubredr.com/Pictures/Bike/Timing/DSC00626.jpg

Next you need to take off the two bolts holding on the cam chain guide.
and then take off the Cam rails.
http://gixxer750kid.clubredr.com/Pictures/Bike/Timing/DSC00627.jpg

You should then loosen you CCT up so you have as much slack in your cam chain as you can get. (I need a MCCT for this bike)
http://gixxer750kid.clubredr.com/Pictures/Bike/Timing/DSC00631.jpg

After that you can remove or adjust the cams so you can adjust the timing from the starter clutch.
http://gixxer750kid.clubredr.com/Pictures/Bike/Timing/DSC00623.jpg
You need to remove the two silver bolts (Big and small).
http://gixxer750kid.clubredr.com/Pictures/Bike/Timing/DSC00624.jpg
and line up the TOP LINE with mark on the timing inspection hole (small hole)
http://gixxer750kid.clubredr.com/Pictures/DSC00636.jpg
Once you do that you should align you cams as pictured.
and zip tie the cam chain in place, the chain should have 15 pins between the exhaust and intake cams as it shows in the picture count over starting with the pin on 2 and ending on 3.
http://gixxer750kid.clubredr.com/Pictures/Bike/Timing/DSC00629.jpg
http://gixxer750kid.clubredr.com/Pictures/Bike/Timing/DSC00632.jpg
once you have everything in place you can put the "camshaft journal holders" back on and tighten your CCT back up, when doing this make sure your ca chain doesn't move once you have everything tightened to a point cut the zip ties off and tighten ass necessary. put the cam chain guide back on and then the valve cover.

Let me know what I said wrong so I can correct it :D
Pretty basic but if you have some knowledge of your bike this should help you.

Looks alot easier with an engine that sittin on a table ;). I know tomorrow when I go to install this new manual CCT, its gonna be tedious!

Looks alot easier with an engine that sittin on a table ;). I know tomorrow when I go to install this new manual CCT, its gonna be tedious!

Naw it's easy, it's only two bolts to take the CCT off so basically 2 bolts to lift the tank and two to take off the CCT you might have to take off the airbox, if so 1-5 bolts for that. Super easy man. good luck:cheers

and yes that's why I opted to do it before I put it back in the frame.

dragging up an oldy :flipoff

anyway, im doing this rght now, just wanna ask......did/does it run fine after doing it?

im assuming mines the same, being a 98(FI)750 SRAD

also, didnt it make the timing different if u had #3 @ the top & not #2 like in the book?

I removed the oil feed line on the left cam covers (rails) BEFORE removing the cam covers (rails) themselves!

I removed the oil feed line on the left cam covers (rails) BEFORE removing the cam covers (rails) themselves!

I was going to say the same thing.

Also, get a torque wrench and torque everything to spec. It's 10 N-m on pretty much everything. If you don't have a torque wrench, Autozone lends them out. You just need a deposit. You don't want to over torque a bolt and have part of one sticking in the engine block and the other part in your hand (Talking from experience... I'm glad the easy out worked!!!).

You might also want to mention the slack height on the cam chain while you're adjusting the MCCT (just a thought). Since I don't have my manual with me I'm doing this from memory, but I think it was 1/4" or something like that (please double check 'cause I could be very wrong).

Just wanted to add my $0.02.

its alot bloody harder with engine in the frame than the engine out like in this write up.

it took me 1 and a half hours to get it done right.

and ive done it 6 times now, never seems to get any easier no matter how many times you do it, with engine in frame mind.

good luck to all whose doing this shitty tedious job !!!

EDIT: just seen how easy it is now (me being dumb) lol