I'd like to do this upgrade. However I have some concerns about tools and/ or skills needed.

Also being the frugal cheepshate I am I'd like to not overpay for the parts (and video?). (I am taking a trip to the ountains in less than 1 month and the heater (1K) just may be the bike of choice I take this time. But I want to sort a couple things. (1. Custom Map. 2. Change rear cowl to a 'beater' I bought from a Hayabusa List member - for carrying a tail bag without concern of scratches.)

Has anyone succcessfully done this Race Tech Gold Valve upgrade that would like to share some info? Things to look out for? Special tools needed? Is market about $130 for parts excl fluid? THANKS IN ADVANCE for any related info!

Quig did if I am not mistaken, so try to get ahold of him or wait for his reply....

Thanks NABIT!

For now, I'll wait for some experts to share and gather more info.
as a fyi? here is Race Tech's infor for the heater...

http://www.racetech.com/evalving/english/Srchpr.asp?bikeid=282&manufacture=Suzuki&model=GSX +R1000&year=01-02&TABLEINFO=street&

Bruce_Bohannon2 said:

I'd like to do this upgrade. However I have some concerns about tools and/ or skills needed.

Also being the frugal cheepshate I am I'd like to not overpay for the parts (and video?). (I am taking a trip to the ountains in less than 1 month and the heater (1K) just may be the bike of choice I take this time. But I want to sort a couple things. (1. Custom Map. 2. Change rear cowl to a 'beater' I bought from a Hayabusa List member - for carrying a tail bag without concern of scratches.)

Has anyone succcessfully done this Race Tech Gold Valve upgrade that would like to share some info? Things to look out for? Special tools needed? Is market about $130 for parts excl fluid? THANKS IN ADVANCE for any related info!



bb-

no advise for this (although im peake with interest...........)

on another note, watch the clearance b/w the RHS bag and the muffler....seems i remember reading about some luggage that went up in flames, when used on the 1K (heater!! true!!)

TTT

Scott, thanks for bag concern. Mine is just a 'tail' bag from Roadgear. They mount very solid on the rear seat / bungee hooks to the loops.

(Jeffw - If your looking??? I scheduled a custom map with you and DK for next Saturday at 1pm. I'd like *at least* 80 ft pounds of loverly smooth torque with 155 RWHP PLEASE. OH, and make that to go!)

I did, in fact complete the task you are asking about(and then some...) recently. I can tell you it IS a BIG job not for the faint of heart or mechanically challenged. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif I had no previous experience in the teardown and reassembly of suspension parts and though the job was quite difficult, I'm glad I did it myself with a SIGNIFICANT amount of help from a friend. In fact, looks like I get to tear down one fork again this week as I STILL have a leaking seal. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Anyway, on to your questions...

Numero uno: You will need some special tools. A spring compressor is ESSENTIAL. We built our own that worked quite well but in hindsight I wish I had just purchased one. It would have saved us some headache. Also, getting the dampening rod assembly apart can be VERY difficult. Markbsae actually machined a clamp/vise that fit this rod so we could put the assembly into the vise and get it apart.

Second; Cost: Gold valves run ~$150. You'll also need fluid at additional $$. Another additional expense you may incur is new springs. Depending on rider weight and ride preference new springs may be required. This will add on ~$100. You will recieve with the purchase of Gold Valves a video that explains much of the work involved . The video is very general but does contain some useful information.

I hope that information is at least somewhat helpful... Good Luck!

If you have any other questions I'd be happy to try to help further. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I've had gold valves put in and springs replaced on 3 different bikes now. I've never done the work myself. The reason is, getting the shimstack just right for your riding style is hard and takes the work of an expert. It's easy to mess this up and end up with a fork that's suboptimal. So my advice is to send the forks out and get it done right the first time around.

NoBull said:

I've had gold valves put in and springs replaced on 3 different bikes now. I've never done the work myself. The reason is, getting the shimstack just right for your riding style is hard and takes the work of an expert. It's easy to mess this up and end up with a fork that's suboptimal. So my advice is to send the forks out and get it done right the first time around.




He's correct. The shimstack is of PARAMOUNT IMPORTANCE. You can do EVERYTHING else correct and mis-stack the shims and ruin the performance of your suspension... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/plthumbsdown.gif

However, if you can follow directions and very carefully measure the shims you can complete this task yourself. It did remind me of one more tool you'll need... A good, accurate micrometer. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

You will need a spring compressor, cartridge and damping rod holding clamps, 12.5mm for the damping rod and 20mm for the cartridge. Also a fork bleed tool. You will need to use a rattle gun to remove the fork bottom lock bolt from the cartridge. At the same time you have to stop the cartridge spinning by pushing down on the spring or using a cartridge holding tool. If you don't have a rattle gun you will need the cartridge holding tool. Aluminium vice clamps are a must to hold the fork lowers. Also the factory uses a thread locking cement which is very robust and you will nead to heat the cartridge end up to get the valve assy out. Also tapping the cartridge with a hammer after heating to loosen the thread locker.

If you are only going to do it once you are better off getting a good suspension shop do the job.

I would recommend replacing the oil seals with single lip G spec NOK seals for lower stiction at the same time you have your forks done.

I've revalved the forks a number of times on my 1K, takes me about 3-4 hours from forks off to forks on. They are better but not perfect.
I'd buy the spring compression tool from Racetech ($130-160), cartridge removal tool ($60 I think) and the holding tool IF you want to
change the rebound also (I did). Also get a front end stand that mounts to the bottom triple clamp. I use a fork oil level tool (progressive suspension)
and a micrometer caliper ($40 plastic one from hardware store) but these aren't essential. The worst part is getting the locktited bottom bolt out the 1st time
(impact wrench maybe). You'll need the compression tool to even change fork oil or springs. With this stuff it's a 1 person job.
Its a bit involved but not really that bad, I started from scratch but my mechanical ability is fairly good.

If this sounds hairy, buy a set of used 750 forks and try them first, they are much closer
to 'good handling' and you might not want to revalve them at all.

I should also add lots of shops just drill out the holes in the stock compression and rebound pistons, so you don't really need the
RaceTech parts. You can call them directly and they will help you.

Send me an email if you want my valving stacks (nowhere near the RaceTech stacks), or have questions.-Good luck

if you live in Cali you should hit up John he can do it and he will hook you up... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

With my timeline - I was really hoping for a diy thing! Dang. There are several good suggestions above. I'm gonna keep them in my gsxr file. (I was aware of the 750 having a better base. dang shame!) Thanks to all.

Appears my best bet is to let a professional do it as I don't plan of needing to do it several times. Thanks ALL. You guys Rule!

I am doing the revalve on my forks this winter.
Does anyone have the recommended "Compression Adjuster" and "Rebound Adjuster" settings for the 01-02 Gixxer 1K?
The web page is not giving me these even after I put in my access codes.

Thanks!

My settings advised me to start mine 8 clicks from full hard on both compression and rebound...they ended up changing some at the track though to make me happy...can't remember for the life of me though what they're at now...I think maybe 5 clicks from hard on the rebound and 6 clicks from hard on the compression.