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Frustrated to the max!

2K views 35 replies 9 participants last post by  ZachPrater22 
#1 ·
Ok guys. Was installing some vortex clip ons 2 nights ago and redoing my exhaust. ( my midpipe has been screwed off since I bought it. ) anyways I ran into a issue with my right controls where is the stop switch wasn't making a solid connection so it was starting sometimes and not starting sometimes. Well found out one of the screws was missing on the inside holding the button in place properly. So it took me quite a few times trying to start the bike to getting it properly set to where the connection was solid. Thought process in my head in sure I drained the battery down doing so..

Well as I'm finishing up my midpipe and getting the exhausted mounted correctly I was gonna start the bike for leaks etc. wouldn't crank low battery. No big deal I thought I drained it screwing with the control.

Right before I leave thought of breaking down and being stranded like before went thru my head. (I REFUSE TO be worried about my bike being broke down on the side of the road been dealing with that shit to long.)

I check volts at battery with my multimeter... Guess what 12.8 idling at 5 grand it's 13.1 to 13.2.. Very weak charge...

Ricks stator.. Maybe 3 months old..
R1 mosfet rectifier rewired straight to the battery with fuse in place and relocated to the side of the frame. (Even put rubber grommets behind the bracket to keep it off the hot frame) extra caution.
All 10 gauge wiring with proper heat shrink and Souter. I have got a chance to look over everything to double check nothing has come loose other then my 30 amp fuse that runs with the +wire and my battery connections were solid.

What am I missing here? I don't understand why I'm having this issue. When it rains it pours is always what I been told but why the heck when I have went and paid good money for the name brand parts and went the extra mile to do the extra steps of rewriting etc etc to prevent from having this happen..

:rage::gun::gun: please someone enlighten me that I'm missing something here that is crucial or something to get this fixed
 
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#3 ·
If the voltages you measured were with a drained battery, then charge it fully (preferably with an external charger) and try again. You can't expect to get 14.5V at the poles of a drained battery when charging. If that were the case, you'd be charging it with a current of many dozens of A.
 
#4 ·
Get out your DMM and test the stator according to the factory specs.
 
#5 ·
Not real knowledgable about regulator/rectifiers, but why are you running an R1 and not a Gsxr r/r?
If the voltages you measured were with a drained battery, then charge it fully (preferably with an external charger) and try again. You can't expect to get 14.5V at the poles of a drained battery when charging. If that were the case, you'd be charging it with a current of many dozens of A.
Get out your DMM and test the stator according to the factory specs.
Bueshy r1 rectifier is mosfet technology they run cooler and tend to last longer. Main issue with 06 and 07 is the location and them running to hot and burning up.

Dpapavas I charged up the battery to full before testing. That was what it gave me for reading on my meter. Unfortunately

Anthony you have always been quick to help and give info or insight I plan on testing the stator tonight when I checked the volts last night I was needing to be in bed like 2 hours before stayed up way to late working on it. Needless to say I'm just not happy about it this is the third go around with it first round I made the rookie mistake and went cheap.. Second go around after dealing with that crap I spent the money to get good recommended stuff so I wouldn't have to worry. I'm hoping maybe a connection somewhere in my wiring is loose or bad.

Just totally down that this is even a issue thinking that I wouldn't have to worry anytime soon :cold_sweat::gun: just not happy
 
#8 ·
Yes sir mosfet runs cooler. Def way to go. Stator has warranty but have to ship them the stator then them ship me one back. So in other words out of a bike for 2 weeks. Right now it's my daily. Car got hit in parking lot at work and is in the shop. Only thing I've done is added a box to the rear that acts like a relay kinda sorta that makes the brake light blink three times fast then three times slow for more visibility for people to see I'm braking.
 
#9 ·
Remove that box and see if the issues go away...
 
#14 ·
Sounds like reg/rec is bad... Should be between 14v-15v at 5k rpm.
 
#15 ·
Yea I disconnected the brake like it didn't change anything but I did have some led switch backs up front for turn signals that I took off and it jumped up a half a volt lol. Everything I have checks that looks like the issue again. :confused::gun: I wonder why I'm burning them up just doesn't make sense to me.
 
#16 ·
I forget, did you relocate it to the left side frame spar? And get rid of the R1 rectifier, buy a new Suzuki one, or Rick's one. Do not buy used reg/recs!
 
#17 ·
Yes sir I relocated it to the side of the frame just took the old bracket and modified it to work on the side of the frame under the fairing. And ok I'm gonna toss it. There was a bunch of threads here talking about the r1 rectifier and it being mosfet and what not that it's a good option.
 
#20 ·
Ok hids. I'm pretty much made up my mind to get rid of them now. I read up on a bunch of different threads about them being hard on the charging system. However it was more towards it being hard on the stator but I assume it would potentially make the r/r bad as well. Would y'all recommend as well? And would LEDs be s better solution versus stock
 
#22 ·
A few thoughts- HID's can often overwhelm the stator output and put you in a constant deficit. This will drain and kill batteries. It isnt always the case, but it certainly does happen.

That said, it sounds like you did all the right things to set the charging system up.

With the R1 MOSFET R/R, you should never see less than 13.8v, unless your battery is totally dead- like less than 6v dead.
The reading you are getting from the battery terminals while the bike is running is what the R/R and stator is producing- not what the battery is doing.
While running, the stator and R/R are powering the entire system at a given voltage (say, 13.8v-14.8v for MOSFET).

This does NOT mean that there is enough current left over to charge the battery, after powering the bike and all of its electrical devices. To determine that you would need an ammeter.

Troubleshooting the stator is easy enough, and should tell you if that is your problem.

I always recommend the Shendigen MOSFET R/R's available at roadstercycle. Those are new, real deal, and are worth the money.
 
#23 ·
Do a search for posts by member @HK45 and his thoughts on HIDs...
A few thoughts- HID's can often overwhelm the stator output and put you in a constant deficit. This will drain and kill batteries. It isnt always the case, but it certainly does happen.

That said, it sounds like you did all the right things to set the charging system up.

With the R1 MOSFET R/R, you should never see less than 13.8v, unless your battery is totally dead- like less than 6v dead.
The reading you are getting from the battery terminals while the bike is running is what the R/R and stator is producing- not what the battery is doing.
While running, the stator and R/R are powering the entire system at a given voltage (say, 13.8v-14.8v for MOSFET).

This does NOT mean that there is enough current left over to charge the battery, after powering the bike and all of its electrical devices. To determine that you would need an ammeter.

Troubleshooting the stator is easy enough, and should tell you if that is your problem.

I always recommend the Shendigen MOSFET R/R's available at roadstercycle. Those are new, real deal, and are worth the money.
Will do Anthony!

One thing that I did last night which I don't think it was the proper way of testing it but it kinda showed me a sign about how much the bulb does take away from the system..

I disconnected my hid ballast from the bulb to see if my amperage would shoot up and also see how much it would increase as revs got higher. When at 5 grand with the hid disconnected I actually got up to 13.8 volts which from ur response would be efficient enough to charge the system correct? And how much would a normal bulb take away from that was what I was wondering. I don't have a stock bulb to throw in the low beam only got the stock high beam.
 
#25 ·
HIDs don't belong on the bike in the first place, unless you've done a proper HID projector swap. Just because it has a projector on it doesn't mean it's meant for an HID.
 
#26 ·
No offense I had no clue about all the detials behind the hids on bikes and what not never even really thought about it just ordered some and threw them in cause I have been installing them in my custom trucks and cars since hids where new on the market. I been reading a bunch of the threads on them now since I stumbled across one of the threads about how they are bad for charging system. I def didn't have the knowledge on the projector part of it along with the hid. So I bet I been blinding people at night and didn't even know about it
 
#29 · (Edited)
Cheap HID kits put more of a strain on the battery due to drawing more AMPs and voltage. A good ballast will only pull maybe 8 AMPs at startup then level out at around 5-6 AMPs. A cheap kit (which I'm 99% certain you have) can pull up to 16 AMPs and idle around 10-12. Cheap kits also have inefficient cooling systems which means they draw even more power the longer they stay on. Some charging systems can handle a good setup easily. My L3 750 has zero issues handling dual quality ballasts. Other charging systems have difficulties but using cheap components amplifies it even more.

And I'm not going to tell you what to do, but HIDs do not belong in reflector housings. You are reducing your distance vision and are a nuisance to oncoming traffic. HIDs belong in projectors or a D2R reflector.
 
#30 ·
Cheap HID kits put more of a strain on the battery due to drawing more AMPs and voltage. A good ballast will only pull maybe 8 AMPs at startup then level out at around 5-6 AMPs. A cheap kit (which I'm 99% certain you have) can pull up to 16 AMPs and idle around 10-12. Cheap kits also have inefficient cooling systems which means they draw even more power the longer they stay on. Some charging systems can handle a good setup easily. My L3 750 has zero issues handling dual quality ballasts. Other charging systems have difficulties but using cheap components amplifies it even more.

And I'm not going to tell you what to do, put HIDs do not belong in reflector housings. You are reducing your distance vision and are a nuisance to oncoming traffic. HIDs belong in projectors or a D2R reflector.
Considering the history of the 06-07 what would you suggest? I think I paid like 50 bucks for my set so yes they are expensive by any means. I found videos on how to mod the headlights and fit the projector etc. but I don't want anymore issues with charging system specially every other month. Just if you would give me a recommendation on which way to go and even where to purchase it would be much appreciated . :eek:k_hand:?

Thanks
 
#31 ·
Given that you still only get 13.8V without the HIDs, they're not your immediate problem. I'm not saying you should keep them, but before considering removing them, you need to figure out why you don't get proper charging voltage, even when running without any lights.

Have you considered the possibility of resistance in the wiring between the battery and the R/R causing a voltage drop? Are any of the R/R's connectors loose? Can you perhaps see signs of overheating on them?
 
#32 ·
I ran checks on the stator and everything checked out fine there. Have looked over everything I have added to the bike towards the electrical system only thing I noticed other then the hids is my switch backs that I had ran for turn signals and running light causing a voltage drop. Which I removed as soon as I found that they did. Towards the r/r I ran a test on it and could pick up a reading.. Perhaps I was doing it wrong I'm honestly not sure cause I have never been able to get a reading on them. The connectors going into the r/r seem to be fine and from where I redid my wiring and wired straight to the battery the connections at the battery and inline fuse seem to be fine as well. I didn't check resistance between the r/r and the battery but I will do that after work tonight and see if there is. Wires are in great shape though no burn marks or anything or any signs of damage. The r/r itself looks brand new as well.
 
#34 ·
An in-line fuse? Between the R/R and the battery? I'm not sure what the resistance of a fuse is, but it is relatively high, since it has to heat up the fuse wire enough to melt it, at a certain current.

The problem with the connection between the R/R and the battery, is that even a very small resistance cab lead to failure. Consider this: say your R/R supplies 20A of current, to operate the bike's electrical system and keep the battery topped up. A resistance as small as 0.1Ω, is going to cause a voltage drop of I*R=2V so that, even if the R/R outputs 14.5V, only 12.5V make it to the battery. As a result, the electrical system of the bike can still operate, but the battery cannot be charged.

The resistances in question are generally too small to measure with a DMM, so you'll have to somehow probe the output of the R/R, while it is connected to the battery with the engine running h, to see whether the voltage there is indeed higher than at the battery. Perhaps the inline fuse holder is a suitable location.
 
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