I been through two reg/recs (15,000 miles and 31,318miles) and one stator.
After my recent incident (reg/rec caught fire as I was driving 5 miles home for my lunch break in 60 degree weather), I decided to upgrade to a mosfet type and relocate it to the side of its current position.
Hopefully this provides some information on how to do it.
I ordered a Quick Build Kit from Steve at www.roadstercycle.com.
I verified that my stator was still good buy Ohming out the plug with the engine off (Spec .2 - 1.00) then checking Voltage with it running ( > 65v @ 5,000rpm).
I also had to replace the heat shield and bypass hose due to the fire. http://motorcycleparts2u.com/
When the Kit was received, I designed a bracket to fit the mosfet, used the same mounting grommets, and mounting tab location.
I wanted to mount it in the same relative area but in the fairing void to get more air and away from the radiator/header hot air.
Wiring was easy. Crimp and solder connections as instructed by Steve's website and instructions that he sends with the kit.
Instead of taping the old reg/rec harness plug, I cut the end off the burnt reg/rec and heat shrinked the wires.
I cranked her up and voltage read 14.58V. I will keep this updated if any issue arises.
Thank you for the pictures. I just ordered mine from Jack yesterday.
I have a question for you, What did you do with the old rectifier and stator wires under the airbox? Do you just tape them up and call it done? Nice bracket btw, did you make that yourself? You should panteint that shit lol
Before I threw the crap rectifier away, I used the connector off of it to make a "dead end" connector and left it under the airbox, cause I am a lil OCD about loose ends. The stator wires are the yellow wires that you splice into the rec/reg pigtail. So his kit bypasses the stock wires to the battery.
Old thread but I am glad someone replied. ha.. Thanks
From my research/understanding, The stator supplies "generates" voltage from the spinning of a drum around the coiled wires. Much like a alternator. But the regulator/rectifier regulates that voltage (this is why it gets hot) and shoots it back to the battery.
I should of mentioned that this is my second time having to replace both. I have 33000 miles on her. First time was under warranty tho. Second time I figured I do it myself. Hopefully this MOSFET will help. Racetech is working on a stator that will be "less powerfull" easiest way said. Here's a couple picks of the fried parts. I'll post picks of the MOSFET install when I get it in the mail.
Thanks for the response bro. I was actually thinking of putting the rr in the tail section by the set valve actuator. You should sell those brackets man. I know a few people that are having over heating on the regulator issues. Sucks for us cause i just read yesterday that 08-09s have a recall. They move it right around the corner like you did, I beleive.
I think the 08/09 tails section is not well ventilated, same as the 06/07. If that's the case the rec/reg will cook in there. I have already tried the tail section. The K1-K4 1Ks and similar modelled 600/750s had a lot of open area to get ventilation into the tail.
+1
My friend's 08 Z1000 had it on that flat spot under the tail by the rear shock.
I still have the design prints for the brackets so I could sell them with enough demand.
Ok thanks guys. It will not be going in my tail section. I just got it in the mail today. I'm gonna start install Monday. Thanks for all the feed back from everybody.:cheers
nice write up
just fell victim of the same problem @ 15000 miles.
Got a Rick's RR and waiting for a Rick's stator (they are back ordered till july 20th but couldn't find any other brands either)
Anyone know anything about Rick's electronics?
paid $120 for RR and $150 for stator
I got me a Mosfet RR from Rick's earlier this year when I was has having all kinds of electrical gremlins. Inspected the connector from the stator and found it was fried. Diced and spliced the connectors and then checked again after a few thousand miles. Stator connector was fried again!!! So a sprang for a new stator coil. At the time, Ricks didn't make one for my bike ('05 1K) so I grabbed some other aftermarket unit.
Anyway, I mounted my RR in the stock location just above the rear shock and all is well.
I am just going to put my new rr in the stock location. Moving it to the side, it still gets all the hot air from the radiator blowing across it so now its not any cooler over there on the side and it sticks out. My stock rr lasted me 5 years, so i think this new mosfet one i ordered from roadstercycle will be able to handle the heat better and should be fine in stock location.
I'm also not using the supplied battery cables that came with the roadstercycle rr. I'm splicing those back into the stock wiring harness. No need for all that extra wiring when the stock wiring worked fine before.
I'm also not using the supplied battery cables that came with the roadstercycle rr. I'm splicing those back into the stock wiring harness. No need for all that extra wiring when the stock wiring worked fine before.
Did you take any pics of your wire install? I'm about to order a Mosfet but I like things to be clean and stock looking so I was going to look into using the original wiring as well.
The only thing you lose out on is the 30 amp auto reset circuit. Is there really any need for this if you're using the stock wiring which should already be running through a fuse?
Let us know how Ricks stator and rr works for you. Im kind of interested in the Ricks stator but i have read that some people that have installed them have a whistling noise after.
Mine works great! I measured voltage at 1200 rpm at battery and it was 14.3 and then revved it to 8000rpm and it was reading 14.3 volts so it's a very linear voltage. A+++ in my book.
Thanks so much for the write-up. I found this thread after my K6 GSX-R600 left me stranded on the side of I-5 on my commute to work. The R/R literally went up in smoke. I found this and decided on the same R/R as the replacement, instead of the crappy factory replacement. I followed your install as a guide for mine, but I made some modifications that I wanted to post back here to share with others who find this thread. I wanted to simplify the bracket design that you came up with and also minimize any protrusion from the side of the fairings so that in the event of a crash, it would stand the best chance of not being damaged. This is the design I came up with.
Front:
Back:
Side:
Mounted w/o Regulator:
Mounted w/ Regulator:
Top-down to show how it doesn't protrude from the fairings:
The bracket is made from 6061 aluminum. It uses the stock mounting holes and I even re-mounted the stock horn on the stock bracket behind it. The bolt holes that mount the bracket to the frame are recessed so that the R/R can sit flush against it while providing enough stand-off so it doesn't rub against the bike's frame. The holes for the R/R are tapped so that the stock R/R bolts can be used to bolt it directly to the new bracket, without the need for additional nuts behind the bracket. This yielded a very low-profile design that should still provide vastly improved airflow for the new R/R as well as easier access should it need to be replaced in the future. Feel free to post up any questions you have, I'll be happy to answer them. Also, if anyone is interested in having me make you one of these brackets, then feel free to PM me and we can work out a fair price for time and materials.
Thanks for the useful info! My K6 has done 71000km odd and is on its second RR and Stator. Dont know if we can get a MOSFET RR in SA. Will check and install it. :cheers
Hopefully someone is importing them. The MOSFET R/R that the OP and I used were made by the same manufacturer as the OEM part, so I wouldn't think there would be any importation restrictions if you did need to import a kit from outside the country, though I've never shipped anything to South Africa, so I can't be sure.
I love that bracket. The design is a perfect example of functionality and simplicity.
Roeland.Vlok, you need the Shindegen FH012AA or the later model FH020AA. They are OEM supply on Yamaha R1 and a few other models or there are a couple of sellers on eBay that have there own websites also.
PLUS ONE!!:cheers
Good job!!:thumbup
BIG chunk o' metal though.
I would rather have that than some of the other engineering marvels I have seen. :facepalm
Yes, I was thinking about that, "chunk of metal". You could do the same thing with square tube, but it would need to be thick walled and may be hard to source, or you could use tube and some dowels (is that the right term?) for the mounting bolts to add strength to the tube, but that would end up requiring more work and costing more.
Square tube would require a different design altogether. You wouldn't be able to recess the frame bolts and you wouldn't be able to tap the holes for the R/R bolts to be able to bolt it directly into the mount. I can still think of a couple of ways to make it work with square tube; some things would be simpler (e.g. you wouldn't actually need to counter-sink the frame bolts) but others would be more difficult (e.g. you would probably need to go back to using nuts to secure the R/R bolts, and those would likely need to be affixed inside of the tube).
The weight savings would be small, because that whole bracket is only 5/8" (16mm) thick, 1" (25mm) wide, and about 4" (100mm) long. So by the time you account for wall thickness, you're removing a relatively small amount of material. Being that the material in question is 6061 aluminum, you're talking about 1oz or so of weight savings. That whole bracket weighs about 4oz (115g), which I assure you is substantially less than the OEM steel bracket that you can toss in the garbage if you don't mind losing your horn.
Using aluminum dowel would be an interesting design, and probably the lightest overall, because you could simply create 4 stand-off posts of round dowel, with a hole drilled and/or tapped through the middle with another dowel connecting the top and bottom for some extra rigidity, and all of it welded together. You could probably cut the weight about in half that way, but as you said, it would require a lot more work to fabricate and, probably require the construction of a jig to make sure everything remained lined up correctly. Unless you're building a race bike, the weight savings doesn't seem worth it to me, but I like the idea.
sorry to bring up an old topic, but this seems the simplest way to nicely move the rectifier, do you have any drawings/scale or the metal you made (so i can make it at work) or a picture with the fairing on too?
Lol, that's simple enough... And while not requiring a mill, it still works. With a thick enough sheet of Al, it shouldnt go anywhere and still dissipate heat well. Ill be using that idea :thumbup
Is it me, or is that bike in your Kitchen?? Lol, mine is sitting in my living room...
LOL
Yes its in the kitchen! :lol
But we don't use it anymore! Although i still wish the fridge was left inside. Refreshing beer allways comes handy when you work on your bike :cheers