It's been some time since I hit you up for something but going back to the point.
I replaced a chain in my bike with both sprockets of course and after rivetting I started adjusting the slack.
What was strange the slack is not constant along the whole chain. It varies from 25mm to 33mm.
Of course rear axle is set up correctly, I mean based on the notches placed on the swingarm I assume it is so.
Also I very carefully linked a chain with caliper to ensure proper width of the link and proper diameter of rivets - finally it is moving as good as other links are.
Do you have any idea what can be wrong? Or maybe it's something normal?
yeah, but how accurate that kind of measurement can be? i did so with a tape measure but I'm afraid it wasn't precise enough... anyway: by this measurement I can tell it's ok but still slack is not constant.
Another thing:
have you noticed that the more rear axle nut is thigtheted the lower slack you have on the chain? Of course I tightened it with 100Nm as it's stated in service manual.
A couple reasons why it gets tighter when you torque the axle. One is that the axle moves back away. Check to make sure you don't have a gap between the axle block and adjuster now.
After you get the chain slack where you want it, put a screwdriver between the chain and the sprocket and rotate the wheel so that the screwdriver is held tightly in place by the chain. Don't force it, just rotate the wheel until the chain is taught. Torque the axle nut to spec, remove the screwdriver and you're done. This method keeps the axle blocks tight against the adjuster bolts while you torque the axle nut.
Ive used that method with the screwdriver between chain and sprocket and rotating to about 1 o'clock to check proper tension(one of many ways i make sure). Picked up that little trick in a past thread somewhere from a past racer. But i have never torqued with screwdriver still in there
Why not try it and then report back? If you follow the directions I just laid out, the axle will be held firmly in place while the nut is torqued and the chain slack should be unchanged afterward.
Do you really think that your 06 GSXR chain adjustment system is drastically different from my 05 GSXR? Or my 2013 ZX10 or my vintage R1, all of which use the same type of adjusters? Come on...
I'm done here. Try it or don't, good luck either way.
You can rule out the sprockets by making a mark on each sprocket one at a time, say pointing down at the tightest point, then rotate until the mark points straight up. If the tight and loose spots correspond with the up and down position of the marks then you know.
Personally 8mm is a pretty small difference. I would adjust it proper at the tightest spot, assuming the sprockets check out, and take it for a ride to heat it up, then check again.
Worth mentioning... Always use reputable chain and sprockets...Always make sure your drive cushions are good and tight. They are rubber and certainly get old and worn out. Your cush drive should be a good snug fit in the hub and not be able to just fall out. Wheel bearings are cheap and easy to replace don't neglect those either...
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