When I decided to buy Suzuki's latest and greatest liter bike, I put forth a plan to take it from brand new with zero miles, add some tasteful upgrades and then ride it.
This bike will never see a race track and will only be used for a weekend toy. I figured the power output will be more than I could ever use, so performance upgrades will be limited to a Yoshimura Alpha T stainless full system, a derestriction and a custom tune.
As I wait for the soon to be released exhaust, I've been hunting and gathering what parts I could find for this new bike. After hitting the books and taking a few chances, here's what I've found.
First thing I did was to remove the chain and clean it in kerosene to remove the ridiculous amounts of grease. I then hung it up for a week to dry it out. It's totally spotless and has a nice light coating of lube on it. No fling means more time riding and less time cleaning.
This is not an endless chain. It has a riveted master link. If your going to remove the chain, be mindful of this. The link is available from Suzuki. Part number: 27620-17K00. It's a 525 pitch.
Parts I've added:
A Vortex Cat 5 rear sprocket in black. Part number: 435ZCK-45. I kept the stock gearing.
This sprocket is from the '11-'16 GSXR 600-750. Held on with Pro Bolt sprocket nuts, Part number: SPN10BK. Also some blue anodized valve stem covers and caps. They match the wheels perfectly.
Yoshimura fender eliminator with LighTech Stripe LED directionals. These are extremely bright! Part number: FRE906NER for the rear and Hot Bodies clear flush mount LEDs for the front. I bought the cheap E- Bay knock offs first to mock up and check fitment. The stripe units didn't look or fit right up front, So I went with the Hot Bodies.
Being a plug and play type, I went with the Bike Master wire adaptors for the directionals. No splicing into the harness. Part number: 266275. A LED electronic flasher instead of resistors. Part number: Novita LL 552.
CRG Carbon Fiber levers, I took a shot here and they fit perfectly. My gamble paid off. The lever is much firmer and doesn't come nowhere near as close to the bar as the stocker. I think the insert that contacts the master cylinder pin might be the key. These levers are from '11-'14 GSXR 600-750 and '09-'14 GSXR 1000. Part Number: CN-643 for the clutch and CN-511 for the brake. I suspect levers from all makers for these years will work.
I removed the stock pipe, servo and cables. I also removed the smog equipment. Surprisingly, the bike is easy to work on and very well thought out. Remove the rear tail section to get to the servo and remove the tank and air box to get to the smog solenoid and hoses.
Remove the fairings. Cover the inside of the radiator with masking tape. The fins are very fragile and will distort if you even look at them wrong. Remove the radiator and oil cooler brackets and remove the two top radiator bolts. This gives you enough wiggle room to move stuff around to get to the header bolts. The pipe simply drops right out.
Block off plates are not available for the valve cover yet, so I went to Home Depot to look around.
I found these items that will do the job nicely. I first inserted the rubber stopper into the hose port. Part number: 755-472 and then capped it off with part number: 756-587. I did the same with the air box port.
Other misc. parts include a R1 throttle tube from Motion Pro. Part number: 01-0094, Yoshimura stem nut, billet master cylinder cap and Christmas tree plugs inserted to any open holes in the frame and swing arm. If your going to use a Pit Bull fork lift, remove the ABS sensor or risk damaging it.
The only parts I'm waiting for is the Exhaust and Zero Gravity dark smoked double bubble wind screen. I'm very pleased the way this project is coming together.
After that, it's off to Jason Karns, one of the top tuners in the business to work his magic. He states, "You don't need a servo buddy or a resistor for the smog solenoid". His program deletes these parameters.
7/02/17. I installed my R1 throttle tube today. There's a ridge on the end of the tube that was a perfect index for cutting the closed end off. I cut and then smoothed the inside with fine sandpaper.
There was a "slight" amount of interference between the tube and the cable holding screw. It was so little I considered leaving it alone, but I didn't.
I simply removed the screw, ran a nut down it and filed about one and a half threads off. Backed the nut off to chase the threads and reinstalled.
I removed the old grip from the stock tube, used alcohol to mock up the grip fitment. The alcohol lets you move the grip around to get the right spacing.
Once I was sure of the proper spacing, I cleaned everything and used Scotts Grip Stick to adhere the grip to the new tube.
Works perfectly!
Fantastic $10.00 upgrade.
I'll add to this post as the build progresses.
This bike will never see a race track and will only be used for a weekend toy. I figured the power output will be more than I could ever use, so performance upgrades will be limited to a Yoshimura Alpha T stainless full system, a derestriction and a custom tune.
As I wait for the soon to be released exhaust, I've been hunting and gathering what parts I could find for this new bike. After hitting the books and taking a few chances, here's what I've found.
First thing I did was to remove the chain and clean it in kerosene to remove the ridiculous amounts of grease. I then hung it up for a week to dry it out. It's totally spotless and has a nice light coating of lube on it. No fling means more time riding and less time cleaning.
This is not an endless chain. It has a riveted master link. If your going to remove the chain, be mindful of this. The link is available from Suzuki. Part number: 27620-17K00. It's a 525 pitch.
Parts I've added:
A Vortex Cat 5 rear sprocket in black. Part number: 435ZCK-45. I kept the stock gearing.
This sprocket is from the '11-'16 GSXR 600-750. Held on with Pro Bolt sprocket nuts, Part number: SPN10BK. Also some blue anodized valve stem covers and caps. They match the wheels perfectly.
Yoshimura fender eliminator with LighTech Stripe LED directionals. These are extremely bright! Part number: FRE906NER for the rear and Hot Bodies clear flush mount LEDs for the front. I bought the cheap E- Bay knock offs first to mock up and check fitment. The stripe units didn't look or fit right up front, So I went with the Hot Bodies.
Being a plug and play type, I went with the Bike Master wire adaptors for the directionals. No splicing into the harness. Part number: 266275. A LED electronic flasher instead of resistors. Part number: Novita LL 552.
CRG Carbon Fiber levers, I took a shot here and they fit perfectly. My gamble paid off. The lever is much firmer and doesn't come nowhere near as close to the bar as the stocker. I think the insert that contacts the master cylinder pin might be the key. These levers are from '11-'14 GSXR 600-750 and '09-'14 GSXR 1000. Part Number: CN-643 for the clutch and CN-511 for the brake. I suspect levers from all makers for these years will work.
I removed the stock pipe, servo and cables. I also removed the smog equipment. Surprisingly, the bike is easy to work on and very well thought out. Remove the rear tail section to get to the servo and remove the tank and air box to get to the smog solenoid and hoses.
Remove the fairings. Cover the inside of the radiator with masking tape. The fins are very fragile and will distort if you even look at them wrong. Remove the radiator and oil cooler brackets and remove the two top radiator bolts. This gives you enough wiggle room to move stuff around to get to the header bolts. The pipe simply drops right out.
Block off plates are not available for the valve cover yet, so I went to Home Depot to look around.
I found these items that will do the job nicely. I first inserted the rubber stopper into the hose port. Part number: 755-472 and then capped it off with part number: 756-587. I did the same with the air box port.
Other misc. parts include a R1 throttle tube from Motion Pro. Part number: 01-0094, Yoshimura stem nut, billet master cylinder cap and Christmas tree plugs inserted to any open holes in the frame and swing arm. If your going to use a Pit Bull fork lift, remove the ABS sensor or risk damaging it.
The only parts I'm waiting for is the Exhaust and Zero Gravity dark smoked double bubble wind screen. I'm very pleased the way this project is coming together.
After that, it's off to Jason Karns, one of the top tuners in the business to work his magic. He states, "You don't need a servo buddy or a resistor for the smog solenoid". His program deletes these parameters.
7/02/17. I installed my R1 throttle tube today. There's a ridge on the end of the tube that was a perfect index for cutting the closed end off. I cut and then smoothed the inside with fine sandpaper.
There was a "slight" amount of interference between the tube and the cable holding screw. It was so little I considered leaving it alone, but I didn't.
I simply removed the screw, ran a nut down it and filed about one and a half threads off. Backed the nut off to chase the threads and reinstalled.
I removed the old grip from the stock tube, used alcohol to mock up the grip fitment. The alcohol lets you move the grip around to get the right spacing.
Once I was sure of the proper spacing, I cleaned everything and used Scotts Grip Stick to adhere the grip to the new tube.
Works perfectly!
Fantastic $10.00 upgrade.
I'll add to this post as the build progresses.