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Help a noob launch? Also wear items from hard launches/drag racing?

8K views 27 replies 10 participants last post by  rust0r 
#1 ·
Searched around but besides clutches I couldn't find much on what tends to wear out/go bad on these bikes as a result of hard launches/drag racing?

Basically I want to know to launch my bike, the wear items, and what could go wrong long term if I keep doing so.

Also if I missed a sticky or something regarding a launching tutorial/keeping the front down/clutch slipping techniques fire away and point me in the right direction please! :biggrin

Looking @oldgixxer specifically :p
 
#2 ·
Please tell us what bike? It will vary depending on the bike.
 
#4 ·
Ok, if you are stock height/wheelbase, it will be tough to get a good launch unless you really lean over the bars to keep the front end down. Start at 6,500RPM and adjust from there. As a road racer, I used the rear brake to keep the front end down as well, but I know @oldgixxer doesn't like that. Try to be full throttle by the 60' mark and then just ride it out.
 
#5 ·
Yes sir, stock wheelbase and stock height, im 6'3 and 210lbs, so keep my weight over the front?

Revs up to 6500 then slowly slip out the clutch and modulate throttle? Front wheel should be on the ground at all times or slight lift ok? I think I read in another post of yours where if you get too much front wheel lift to use the clutch instead of backing off the throttle to control the bike?

Never launched before, I commuted 14k miles last year on my 600 and just picked up the 1k 2 months ago..I figure its time I learn how to use it ahaha
 
#6 ·
Yeah, don't back off the throttle. Try to get out of the clutch as quick as possible. And the front wheel is gonna come up about 6" or so, which is fine. More than that and you are gonna lose acceleration.
 
#7 ·
Thank you for the advice on the front wheel, any components that wear out that I should be concerned about from launches?

I guess I saw a few videos of the guys looping their bikes accelerating too hard and I was always afraid of that :dunno

When I let my clutch out right now as it is in first gear it feels like it slips a little then grabs suddenly?
 
#8 ·
Clutch fibers and steels will wear out very quickly. Keep spares on hand.
 
#13 ·
@Anthony D
ty for the heads up man, anything else I should be worried about besides the chain/sprockets/tires? Long term engine damage?

Any advice on best shifting technique/practices for maximum acceleration with minimal wheel rise? What RPMS/drag rear brake/clutch/no clutch/when to clutch or not/body positioning/throttle technique etc?

Thank you in advance man I appreciate the insight! :cheers
 
#9 ·
while not necessarily mandatory at the time it happens, i'd advise draining the oil, dropping the oil pan, and cleaning the oil strainer in the event of worn out fibers once he gets done racing. the stock strainers have a fine mesh and clutch material can clog it up and eventually starve the motor for oil, causing spun bearings at some point in the future. oil changes and proper clutch maintenance are the most commonly neglected by people new to drag racing aside from general chain neglect.

the best practice is to go to the track with fresh oil in the bike. also, maintain the clutch pack so you never burn up fibers and have to go through the added steps more often than necessary. you just need a set of digital calipers to measure fiber thicknesses after each outing to be sure they are within specs. after a couple times of doing that, you'll get a grasp on how hard you are on the clutch and be able to set a regular maintenance schedule for the clutch and then just drop the oil pan every 3rd outing or so.
 
#12 ·
@d3coy @oldgixxer I've seen your guys posts on here before and It was the two of you that I wanted to ask as well, any advice on proper shifting technique/rpms/clutchless?

I want to learn how to do all of this without any quickshifter/traction aids/electronics

So clutch all the way out before the 60 foot, any advice on when/best way to shift? RPMS, dragging brake, minimizing wheeling while maximizing acceleration?

Clutchless upshift after the 1-2nd? quick cut off the power, slide into next gear then roll on smooth? Or are you guys more abrupt on the throttle? You jam it open as quick as you can without bringing up the front wheel too fast or you roll on as smooth as possible after practicing? I saw that bmw s1000rr video vs the veyron and that guys shifts were absolutely impeccable, minimal front wheel rise and maximum/no acceleration loss I'd love it if you guys could help point me in the right direction on how to get my technique to that point with your experience, cheers and thanks again :)
 
#10 ·
Drag the rear brake. I like to adjust the rear brake lever, tilting it far enough down that I'm just barely grazing it as my foot is at a comfortable angle. Not too far because you don't want to accidentally apply rear brakes while riding. Find that sweet spot and use it on launch. It will feel weird at first, go slow, get use to the pressure, you barely apply it, doesn't take much for it to pull the front down. I think this method is best until you master the clutch/throttle.
 
#11 ·
@Blacknblue750 Thank you for the advice on dragging the front brake, I'll definitely try it out

Any advice on shifting/timing/what rpms?

Clutchless upshift after 1-2nd? Roll on the throttle smoothly and as quick as possible without bringing the wheel up or do you guys jam it open and keep the front down with your weight forward/is there a technique I don't know about? I'm all ears ahaha cheers ty for the advice again :)
 
#17 · (Edited)
The stock gsxr1000 05-06 has a lock up clutch, a ramp in the clutch assembly that tries to apply clutch pack tight very quickly.
I had an 06, it was a mother to get any slip off the line.
They make an aftermarket assembly that takes away the ramping mechanism.

Look at APE racing, I believe you can get more information there.
Its part number 16 from the list it's a ramping cam.
 

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#21 ·
Slipper clutch,not lock-up. Although if launched hard,the K5 will try and snatch the clutch lever outta your hand similar to a lock-up. Two simple solutions for drag racing purposes: weld the slipper mechanism or buy a Brocks clutch-mod. Both accomplish the same.

Was that in reference to what I posted?
APE knows a few things about racing.
If you're running crazy horse power, you're probably not using stock clutch to start with. :cheers
Todd quoted d3coy and was not referencing your reply
 
#24 · (Edited)
... a year later...

I'm a COMPLETE noob when it comes to drag racing/starts.

I've got a bone stock L6 750 and going to the strip in 2 days... Have tried a few practice starts out on country roads, so I won't come in completely cold, but close.

I was trying 8000 and 9000 RPM, but didn't figure out how to get a hard launch so I've been doing at 10k and that feels about right but thought I'd ask. Some times at 8k or so, I'll slip the clutch and add power like a normal fast stoplight start and that feels OK, but not huge rush of power, but more controllable, but also more inclined to bog down and be slow, I think.

I was thinking I'd let out all the preload to lower a bit. Also reduce rear to 30 PSI.

I have the clutch free-play all the way out, and I plan to change the oil.

If anyone sees this in time, I'd appreciate any comments; At this point, I don't intend to modify bike for drag ever. Just looking for advice on how to have a good night and hopefully have all decent runs and a couple of really good ones (for me). So looking for 'easiest' technique for that bike, and hoping that I don't fry the clutch in the process, if that's even possible given that I'll probably only do 6-8 runs given the busyness at the track (Gateway, St. Louis).

Thanks!
 
#25 ·
I did OK. I got a lot of information from this and some other threads.

I ended up putting HIGHER pressure front and rear (42#). Since bike will lift up the front end, no need to lower pressure to get more traction; at least that's the theory I followed.

Every ET was between 11.2 and 11.6 and top speeds all between 128 and 126 on 12 runs, ignoring 1 red-light when I was all screwed up.

Best total = 11.478 with a .198 RT.

Very few people there; I've heard you can be lucky to get 6 runs in on a Friday night.

Never really got a great start, but was able to get more consistent routine towards the end and in fact last run was best ET and MPH although a .484 RT. Best part was going side by side with my buddy on that run and we both did 11.787 times; slip says he won by .0003! (crap!) His RT was worse, but I musta bogged it but then had pretty good shifts and was running him down; just ran out of racetrack. Was his best ET and MPH also.

Coulda/woulda/shoulda/didn't put my -1 front sprocket back in; I was using for a while on street and track but decided I wanted taller gearing again and didn't feel like changing for '1-time' drag racing...

I'll be looking into that and other things, but really want to keep the bike stock with the CAT and all that crap; Maybe some day if/when the bike is the biggest part of the problem...

What a blast and all for $25!

Next time!
 
#26 ·
Unless you're actually racing, reaction time is not a very big deal. The time does not start until you cross the beams, and you should be shooting for getting your 60' down as low as possible before you even start thinking about messing with reaction times. You could have a 0.01 RT, but your 2.1 60' is still going to kill your time.
 
#27 ·
Yeah I hear you. I probably should have ignored the light and focused on ET but with my buddies in the other lane every time, it just had to be a race.

My best 60 was 1.983, but as you guessed, most were 2.1's...

I would think I could cut a half a second with current setup; like I said I don't feel like I ever really nailed it. ??
 
#28 ·
Somewhat of an old thread, but bumping as it's a new season and interested to get some 750 action and time comparisons going on here.

Stock 2008 750 aside from an FMF exhaust w/o cat - no tune

RT 0.768
60 ft 1.99
300 ft 4.908
1/8th 7.185
MPH 107.76
1000 9.165
1/4 10.863
MPH 131.86

I keep all my slips and will compare them once I'm home and the runs are fresh in my head, I've even started plotting them in excel so I can compare the runs, what went well, what went bad. I'm at the point of almost bouncing off the rev limiter in 4th as I go through the traps but definitely not beneficial shifting to 5th for a few dozen feet/meters and losing that momentum from my comparisons.

Excuse the RT lol, I don't worry at all about RT or beating the other guy out of the gate, just want to focus 100% on my launch setup.
 
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