I know there has been quite a few FI light threads, but I could not find an answer for my problem using the search function and am hoping some of your expertise can help me out!
I have noticed that sometimes after driving at highway speeds and then slowing down (say going from the highway and pulling off to a gas station) my F1 light will turn on. While the light is on, my RPM will then surge from 1500-2000 rpm while stopped or slowly riding, but I will not notice anything at higher RPMs (this does not happen if the F1 light is not on). If I turn my bike off than back on, the F1 light is gone (so I haven't been able to put it in dealer mode and check the code).
I recently pulled the wire for the SET valve and installed the Healtech FI Tuner Pro, and noticed this happening after the fact. Is there something I missed while disabling the SET valve that could cause this issue? (I have not disabled the motor that operates the valve itself, if that matters).
Any help on this would be awesome, can't figure it out!
I know there has been quite a few F1 light threads, but I could not find an answer for my problem using the search function and am hoping some of your expertise can help me out!
I'm finding it hard to believe that you've researched FI-related threads here and are still calling it the "F1" light. You should have come at least a dozen threads, where Anthony informs the OP that "it's FI, not F1".
I have noticed that sometimes after driving at highway speeds and then slowing down (say going from the highway and pulling off to a gas station) my F1 light will turn on. While the light is on, my RPM will then surge from 1500-2000 rpm while stopped or slowly riding, but I will not notice anything at higher RPMs (this does not happen if the F1 light is not on). If I turn my bike off than back on, the F1 light is gone (so I haven't been able to put it in dealer mode and check the code).
Get a dealer mode switch and keep it connected an off. Also keep a spare key with you. Once you see the light flash, remove the rear seat and switch to dealer mode without turning the ignition off. You should be able to see the code, which sounds like the ISC valve to me. You can also use a paperclip if you're very careful and know which wires to short.
1. Connector not connected = Not it.
2. Wire out of connector = Bingo!
3. Short to ground, signal out of range = Out of range means 2 or 1 so this too goes Bing... 'can't figure it out.'
I noticed in a few spots it was called F1 but mostly FI, not sure why I choose to use F1, but my mistake (I mostly looked at the first post of each thread to see if the problems related).
Thanks for the info on the potential ISC valve issue. After searching more information on what throws that code, I realized that the problem is likely that I also added new levers (among other items) when installing the FI Tuner Pro. So the problem is likely that the aftermarket levers I installed are not hitting the clutch lever switch properly, giving me the FI light. It looks like I will have to do a bypass on the clutch lever switch now and hopefully that will take care of it!
Catch122.... Thanks for the input, but I don't think anything in the solution was answered by my initial question.
+1 on what JK750 says above and also consider that, given a badly designed clutch lever, a badly designed brake lever is not inconceivable, the difference being that bad design there, could potentially cause a lot more drama.
I definitely don't want a neutral map on my bike. Do you know if the FI Tuner would override the safe mode that causes neutral maps?
After your input and reading a bit more, I will hold off on the bypass for now. The FI light only happens every now and then and it could be because I don't have the clutch lever set out far enough. I kept the original levers and could always swap them back on to see if anything happens.
It's not a safe mode, it's just a fuel map that's more applicable for idling and no-load operation in general. It's used when the clutch is pulled in and when the transmission is in neutral and there's no reason to change that.
I went ahead and replaced my clutch lever with the stock one, to see if that would make a difference. Unfortunately when slowing/gearing down from higher speeds the FI light came back on. As soon as I turn the motor off and on again, no light.
I will take your advice dpapavas and try to get a code reading without turning the bike off. Biggest issue so far is that it's hard to replicate it happening, as it doesn't happen every time I ride (tends to be after being on the highway and slowing down on and off ramp/at the next set of lights).
If I do the paper clip in the right spots while the back is still running, will it instantly flash the code, or do I have to shut the power off while keeping the key on "on"?
Biggest issue so far is that it's hard to replicate it happening, as it doesn't happen every time I ride (tends to be after being on the highway and slowing down on and off ramp/at the next set of lights).
If I do the paper clip in the right spots while the back is still running, will it instantly flash the code, or do I have to shut the power off while keeping the key on "on"?
Jumping the correct pins, will instantly replace the 'FI' indication with the fault code, so a clip and a spare key should be enough. A proper dealer mode switch would be safer and more convenient, though.
I own a closed loop kind of bike where I cannot pull a wire from a sensor/jobber; it ties in with other possible variables and throws codes = #3 'signal out of range.'
Alex, for $400 I'll take, 'yes I recently pulled the wire out of a stock bike's wire harness and placed a healthtech between it.' Was that a yes or a no? I have no clue what you did so I am assuming you messed with a sensor wire on the bike, yes or no I answered my own question.
Catch122, I pulled the wire indicated in the healtech instructions, along with the forum (I believe #5, brown with black striping), which is suppose to prevent an FI code from being thrown from disconnecting the SET valve. From my understanding pulling that wire should prevent a code coming up, not give me one...I might be mistaken, this is the first bike I have had with a SET or with a clutch switch.