Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com banner

New gen gauge swap info/instructions

278K views 471 replies 144 participants last post by  K3lewi 
#1 ·
Since my last post on this got deleated... here it is again: all the info you should need to swap a new generation instrument cluster to your SRAD


PS: to get rid of the "CHECK" Fi light on the 98-99 750's try using the 96-97 radiators since it has a rad-mounted thermostat... you will have to extend the wires on the harness... it might fix the problem since it did when I did my 1k-swap


here is the original post for you to look through if you want more info: http://www.gixxer.com/ubbthreads/showfla...part=1&vc=1

freebie said:
The connector is the same on both models of bikes...If you look at the connector you will see at the top were the wires go in that it opens up. After you open up the two plastic pieces you can use a safety pin from the other side to lift the tab in the connector to free each of the pins. Its tricky but I did it. NO CUT WIRES...Then just put them in there new locations.
FUNCTION PINOUT on 2001 instrument cluster:
pin 1: ignition
pin 2: +12V constant!
pin 3: High beam
pin 4: R-turn
pin 5: L-turn
pin 6: Oil
pin 7: Temp. (sensor)
pin 8: Tacho
pin 9: Illimunation
pin 10: Temp.
pin 11: Neutral
pin 12: speed sensor
pin 13: Empty
pin 14: fuel A
pin 15: fuel B
pin 16: Speed plus

COLOR PINOUT on 2001 instrument cluster (I hope they are both the same
:
1. Green
2. 12v Constant
3. Black / Yellow
4. Light Green
5. Black
6. Green / Yellow
7. Black / Green
8. Yellow
9. Grey
10. Black / Brown or White (hard to tell what color it is.)
11. Blue
12. Orange / Red
13. Empty
14. Red / Black
15. Black / Light Green
16. Pink

NForcer said:
a56kuser said:
what i need to know is the following things so i can start
1. what wire did you use for the 12v constant and how did you put it in ie: solder, splice it?
2. can you mount it on the old gsxr gauge mounts?
a56kuser, here are the answers to your questions:

1. I wired the 12v constant directly to the positive connector on the battery. Very simple to route the wires.
2. You can't mount the old gauges to the old mount unless you just zip-tie them or frabricate a bracket. Luckily I have a diagram that you can use to create one yourself. It is very simple and easy to do.. all you need is a little patience. Here is a picture of it.




Here is a link to download the PDF of the diagram. Let me know if you need any help!

Gauge bracket PDF
a56kuser said:
well i finished the project....
 
See less See more
5
#9 ·
An addition to this swap....

The pin #'s on the wire side (connector) are not "right" when compared to the info here -- the info here is "right" if you look at the suzuki manual. If you look at the connector, it's got 4 numbers "1....8" on one side and "9....16" on the other -- when looking at the connector, the #'s are actually swapped when compared to the manual (pin 1 on the connector is 8 in the manual) Otherwise, it worked with only a minor hitch (see next post)
 
#10 ·
I have two issues with the swap...
1) the fuel light is always on
2) the "CHEC" words are always there. everything else seems to function correctly.

Any ideas on these two issues?
 
#12 ·
ok.. i attempted this last night, with NO luck whatsoever. I put the pins where they are supposed to go, and the gauge cluster wont even do ANYTHING when i turn the key.

Also, i just printed out the diagram to make the bracket taht holds the cluster to the bike, and my cluster wont work with it.


The cluster is from a newer 600, not exactly sure which year it came from though. It has the 14.5k redline, and the connector fits right in, but nothing happens when i turn the bike on


Any help? id like to be able to ride this weekend


-Ty
 
#13 ·
When I 1st made the cable; I put the "pins" in the holes of the connector based on the #'s on the connector -- this is wrong; it's reversed -- the pins # are for the gauge; not the connector; try reversing them... (ie 1 - 9 on one side, 10 - 18 on the other --- 1 = 10 and 9=18)

Now; that being said; the original project that started this was never really completed... I printed the diagram & paid to have the mount main w/o 1st checking it -- the PDF file shrunk it a little; so check it and if needed; use a copy machine to increase it in size.

Lastly; I had two problems: FI light was on and fuel light was on, even tho neither should have been. I'm suspecting that in older models the loop was "open" normaly; and in the newer it's "closed" normally -- that's just a guess tho -- I haven't revisited that --- YET.. I probably will this winter.

Try reversing the pins and let us know how you proced.
You can PM me if you want.
 
#14 ·
well i just came in from doing what you said.. Put the wire that was listed to go into the #1 slot, and put it in #9, and so on..

I get done, plug the connector in, and NOTHING. I know my 12V wire is good, i checked it, i just dont understand why i get NOTHING out of the cluster


This is really starting to aggravate me
 
#15 ·
Can anyone PLEASE show me a digram on how to put the pins back to make the stock cluster work? I KNEW i should of writen down which colors were in which pins


I would like to put it back to stock, and put the stock cluster in, just to make sure everything is ok.....

-Ty
 
#16 ·
well; you've got the colour to "what it is" already...Here's for a 98 750 -- I'm betting ti's the same as a 600

1: high beam +
2: neutral -
3: illumi +
4: fuel A
5: fuel B
6: oil
7: temp sonsor
8: temp -
9: turn (r) +
10: turn (l) +
11: tacho
12: ignition
13: "Blank" (but really is filled with that left over wire
14: speed plus
15: speed sensor +
16: blank

I was wrong on 1-9, it's 1-8.. anyway; the guage WILL work; ust the two warning lights pop on right away....

I have a picture of the two sides if you want it -- PM and I'll send them.
 
#20 ·
after talking & asking around -- no -- no one has done it yet... the original post ended up doing a total swap; so the "conversion" wasn't used...

I had it all done - -and the FI & fuel level warning was "on" - I think it might be a "swap" (closed circut normally vs. open circut normally) in the electronics logic....

I have been too busy riding; but I plan on testing it out when the weather turns to crap....

Stay tuned! (or pm to hear of any news via email)
 
#21 ·
ok.. just went back at it again.. this time after messing with it, i got the new cluster to actually power on.... sorta


When i turn the key, the odometer/neutral light/gas light all just keep turning on, then turning off, then turning on, off, on, and so on..

when they flicker on, the tach jumps up a bit, then falls down when they turn off, if that makes sense..

This is starting to really piss me off, i ripped the damn thing apart b/c i thought the original poster did it to his bike, and everything worked great


-Ty
 
#22 ·
Something still isn't right....
I had it all working except fuel level light & fi warning light...

Other than that; it worked fine....
I've heard various things that "it's the ECU" to "you had a wire backwards" -- well; I'm hoping it's somewhere in between -- like I just need to install a logic gate inline with the gauge & wires..
 
#23 ·
cool, another great mod for my already highly modified srad.
 
#24 ·
Let us know how you do.. There's a fair # of us who've tried & not been successful at getting it all to work...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top