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FI indicator, -COO

3K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  BillV 
#1 ·
I have a 2007 GSXR 1000 with 8700 miles. I am getting the FI light, with the red indicator light as well, along with the oil icon on the instrument cluster. I traded my car for the bike and the guy told me that the bike sputters at high rpms and the fuel pump filter/strainer needed to be replaced. (he stated the bike sat for a while and the tank had to be cleaned, along with the pump being replaced) I replaced the fuel pump filter, and still am getting the sputter at higher rpms. I changed the spark plugs as well and it gave the bike a little life. I did adjust the TPS as well. it was too high according to the hash mark when placed in dealer mode. so that is adjusted properly as well, which gave the bike a little more life, but still sputters at a high rpm. I also pulled the fuel rail off the throttle body and checked them as well. The primary injectors are spraying okay it seems when engaged, so i don't believe they are clogged. They seem to be spraying in uniform to the naked eye.

I start the bike, it starts fine and idle seems okay. I get on the throttle when in neutral on the kick stand, and after a moment, the bike's rpms get sporadic and not consistent. they start fluctuating and then the bike will die if i continue to stay on the throttle, like it is being drowned or something.

I have no mods on the bike, it has stock exhaust and cans. This is my first bike I've had, and it has been by far the worst experience of my life with a machine. I have had this bike for a month and cannot even get this on the road. I am somewhat knowledgeable with working on bikes from troubleshooting this and working on cars, but this has me stumped.

ill explain the step by step process I am seeing.
1. start the bike, idles okay around 1500 rpms.
2. start to rev the throttle a few good times...seems responsive
3. rev up the rpm's and they start to get sporatic and the bike then idles inconsistently
4. FI light comes on with the red light, then I see the oil icon pop up as well.
5. when I pull on the throttle and try to hold it steady (around 4-5k rpm), it begins to bog out (so to speak) and sputter...eventually dying out

Any work of advise or expertise would be greatly appreciated.
 
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#4 ·
First thing is stop running the engine till you find out why the oil can is on. Could be a faulty oil pressure sensor or something far more damaging. Get yourself a service manual and start delving into the problem. As for the FI, if you are not turning off the engine at the key or kill switch before putting it into dealer mode and then still getting -C00, I don't know what to tell you.
 
#5 ·
thank you for the information Samantha750. I have the service manual as of this morning. I will look into it and see if I can retrieve some useful information.
I am completely stumped here..and about ready to take it to the shop for examination. (Livengood Motorsports in Atlanta, GA) lack of experience is frustrating when troubleshooting.
 
#7 ·
that is exactly who I will be taking it to. Maybe a professional can figure it out. I am clueless at this point.
I was advised to check the secondary throttles if they were installed and/or working...I am not sure if this relates to the issue, but its more information that I didn't have. :)
I will have to check on this later today when I get the chance to work on the bike. It probably wouldn't hurt to run a fuel test as well.

the oil light is just worrying me..could it be a pressure switch, or pressure relief valve?
 
#8 ·
since I am getting an oil can icon, I am going to change the oil and the filter as well today to see if it makes a difference. the bike currently has a FRAM filter from the previous owner which I read in the past that they are horrible and known to malfunction, especially on Suzuki bikes. the oil seems soupy and black in the window indicator too, so it needs to be changed regardless. I will be putting a stock oil filter on the bike today, along with Suzuki oil if I can find it.
 
#10 · (Edited)
This could easily be a pinched oil pressure switch lead. Follow the procedure on 9-34 of the service manual. With the engine off and the ignition switch on the icon and red light should be off when the lead is disconnected and on when grounded. The lead can get pinched by incorrectly installing the fairing or the clamps for the lead.

If the lead is OK, the next thing to look at is the pressure switch. It should be closed when the bike is not running but should open when there's pressure. Testing that it opens requires either removing the switch and applying a pressure source or running the engine for a short time.

You don't want to be running the engine with the icon on for more than a brief time as you'll destroy the engine if you actually have low oil pressure. It sounds like you already have and you're still alive so your pressure is probably OK.

If the pressure actually is low, there could be a jammed pressure regulator, a failed oil pump, or an obstruction in an oil passage. But a pinched pressure switch lead is much more likely. Just don't ride it until you're sure that you have pressure, icon or not.

P.S. The red LED is a general fault indicator that can be turned on by more than one thing. For oil pressure issues, pay closest attention to the oil can icon. Also, if you don't have it, get an owner's manual for the bike.
 
#12 ·
Update on the GSXR 1000...no luck! I changed the oil and put a stock filter on there as well. The FRAM filter that was on the bike was so tight, an oil filter wrench couldn't get it off. I had to go to the local hardware store and buy the biggest channel locks in the world, then she came off with ease...go figure! The bike definitely needed the oil change, but I am still getting the oil can icon on the instrument cluster, along with the FI light. I have yet to check the oil pressure lead or switch, but will when I assemble the exhaust back on the bike and before the fairing go back on.

The bike idles fine for a bit on startup....then all of a sudden its start being sporadic with the rpms...I get on the throttle a lil to see if I can work it out, and then it bogs and eventually will die out if I stay on the gas...idk from this point. hopefully it is not a bad ECU. I am planning on taking the bike to Brian at Livengood on Saturday if I cannot come up with a lead as to what the issue could be.
 
#13 ·
K7 was the first year for an idle speed control valve (ISC). There was a recall on it. Check to see if it was done. I've forgotten the details but there's a mark on the frame head to signify that the recall was performed. Beyond that its passages can get clogged. It sounds like it is the source of your idle problem and FI code.

Another idle related problem occurs when an aftermarket clutch lever is installed and the clutch switch isn't properly installed on it. If the switch doesn't close/open when the lever is pulled/released, the ECM will start adjusting the ISC level and the idle will go to hell.

You're not doing something right with the dealer mode switch as you should be getting more than C00 if FI is coming on. Do you have a real switch or are you just using a paper clip?
 
#14 ·
thank you for the update BillV. I will look into the ISC in the service manual. I am indeed using a paper clip to put the bike in dealer mode. I do not have any aftermarket parts on the bike, it is bone stock.
 
#15 ·
update on the GSXR 1000. Livengood has diagnosed that the fuel pump has no pressure, so I will have to replace the fuel pump I suppose. I guess the guy that had the bike before bought a faulty fuel pump from a mom and pop salvage shop. The idle speed control valve is burnt out as well, so that I will have to replace as well. I am looking to order these parts myself and ship them to them for the repairs. Hopefully when these procedures are done, the bike will have no further issues. They cannot go any further with checking everything on the bike until these are fixed. Fingers crossed that this is the only problems that I am having...this sucks!
 
#18 ·
thank you for the pointer on this JK750! I will look into this for sure. I think I can get a flash for $275 give or take, and the part is around $255 alone, so this may be a more beneficial option for me.
 
#20 ·
"so I will have to replace the fuel pump I suppose" Just the filter. Will run around $100. Be happy that you don't have an earlier model.

I'm not a big fan of the ISC. But on a street driven bike, I'd suggest that you stay with it. Haven't heard of one actually burning out. Getting clogged with deposits is more common. The ISC recall included a new ECM (different PN). You should check whether your bike has had the recall and, if so, that everything was done.
 
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