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bike cutting out

12K views 99 replies 8 participants last post by  dpapavas 
#1 ·
First of all. I have recently had the bike sprayed so tank off etc. No visable crap in there when i emptied it. Made sure fuel hose when back on correctly, stuck the overflow and breather behind the swingarm i believe .
I have done about 300 miles in 3 journeys. The 1st one near the end of the ride this happened, F1 light come on but there was no code on said check coolant, bike stalled from 5 gear to a stand still. Turned ignition off/on and was fine. Did same later. New coolant obviously and seems pressurised and running normal temp.
Second time 120 miles and no issue
I went out last night and the weather is hot, was running fine until traffic build up and cut out totally. Turned over fine but wouldnt start until the temp dropped. It was like the primer was struggling and wasnt getting fuel.
Can anyine suggest ideas?
Im going to lift the tank and look for obvious things but im stuck to be honest.
Read old posts about ecu maybe and fuel being vaporized in the hoses to cause fuel starvation.
Would love to get some pointers so i can get out this weekend
 
#2 ·
First, note that 'CHEC', in place of the coolant temperature, doesn't imply a problem with the cooling system. It means the ECU has gone offline, probably due to losing power. The usual cause for this, is a problem with the side stand switch, or the spring holding the retracted side stand pressed against it. Search the forum for more details.
 
#3 ·
"no code on said check coolant"

What do you mean? What temperatures are you seeing? There is no low coolant indicator, only the red LED fault indicator plus the high temperature icon come on at 120°C, at which point you're supposed to immediately turn the engine off. Beyond that, the temperature indicator changes to HI at 140°C (283°F) and the engine is probably damaged. Or, per dpapavas, are you misinterpreting CHEC as a coolant warning?

I wonder if the stalling is just the side stand switch cutting things off.

Just to be sure, it wouldn't hurt to check the fuel pump flow rate. Are you sure that the fuel line isn't kinked?
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys.
I think ive mistaken the 'chec' for being coolant related. The temperature of the bike when it cut out was only 97.
Im quite sure the fuel line isnt kinked but I'll lift the tank later and check.
I didn't get the f1 when the bike cut out when the weather was warm, only the first time when i managed to start it again by turning the ignition off and on.
 
#6 ·
Ive been reading about the 'chec' code and the indicator relay being mentioned. My right indicator has been flashing faster since i have rebuilt the bike, it starts normal speed but then faster after a few secs. I thinkb it only happens if the bike is running too. Could be related then?
 
#7 ·
Ive ordered a new relay, I'll update once fitted. I took the bike out yesterday and it didnt break down. The right indicator flashed correctly until the revs went up ans it flashed slightly quicker again.
Its an led relay but suppose to work on all bulbs so we'll see
 
#8 ·
Have a look at the condition of the sidestand switch as well. When you kick the stand is up, it should snap to a position that fully depresses the side stand switch and it should be kept firmly in that position. If it depresses the switch only partly, perhaps because the stand pivot is clogged with dirt and/or unlubricated, or because the spring has softened and/or deformed, a bump may well pull it further down opening the switch, causing the interlock to 'think' you're riding with the stand down, cutting power to the injection system.

Also, you might want to measure your system voltage (i.e. voltage at the battery with the engine running at 3-5k rpm). That variable blink rate is not normal, and might be caused by a higher than normal system voltage at higher engine speeds, which would be indicative of a regulator failure and should be addressed ASAP. Alternatively, it might be that one of the bulbs fails intermittently, causing the other to blink faster.
 
#10 ·
First, the relay has two functions that are separate from each other. One is to cause the turn signals to flash when actuated. The other is as part of the ignition interlock system. The same part of the relay is used for left and right signals. If yours aren't functioning identically, there's a difference in the bulbs or the wiring. Try swapping all turn signal bulbs left for right and see what happens. You may have some screwy bulbs.

Beyond that, dpapavas may be spot on about the system voltage. "Rebuilt the bike" makes me suspicious. It could, for example, be that the stator or the R/R connector is failing. It would be useful if you could get a small voltmeter and measure the system voltage while riding around. Measure it at the dealer mode connector, prob. an O/G lead on your bike.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the pointers guys. Ill swap the bulbs round tomorrow evening. My "rebuilt the bike" was just taking all the fairings off, i was bigging the job up haha, the lights etc was taken apart so may of unsettled something. I will have to look in to a voltmeter if i have too, wouldnt know where to start with that so i would need some support from the pros
 
#13 ·
Well, if the regulator has stopped regulating, the system voltage will rise above 14-15V as engine speed rises. This can cause more current to flow through the wiring, overheating it, as well as the connectors and leading to immediate or subsequent failure. It could also damage certain devices, which are more sensitive to voltage such as light bulbs and, perhaps more importantly, the ECU.
 
#15 ·
The three contact connector to the stator is well known for going bad, apparently from exposure to the elements. What commonly happens is that one of the contacts goes half bad such that there's an ohm or two resistance at the contact. The current through the contact causes it to heat till the nylon connector body melts, followed shortly by the electrics dying.

If you have a voltmeter out, it wouldn't hurt to measure the voltage drop across the contacts while the bike is running. It should be small, less than .1 V.

P.S. Here's the sort of thing that happens:
 
#18 ·
Got the chec display again today, again the ambient temperature has been really hot today. Im sure its a coincidence but the bije became unridable with it cutting out. Ive lifted the and checked plugs, fuel lines etc. Defiantly seems electrical. Side stand switch seems ok. If i buy a voltmeter i wont be sure how to use it if honest. Going to tryand source a reliable electrics man to tale a look. Proper pissing me off now
 
#19 ·
Unfortunately curing the indicator fault by replacing the relay didn't make that much sense. You have a intermittent somewhere. It's probably the wiring but could include the ECM, and it's going to take some hunting to find it. You need to get someone else involved if you can't make the measurements.
 
#21 ·
The bike does have a TRE fitted. Im paranoid thinking what it could be. I did get the generator cover painted so did take the coiled parts out and refitted them, i guess i need someone with the nowhow to get the connections. Just seems wierd how its fine once the bike has cooled down for a few minutes. Its been fine for the last 3 weeks until this hot weather in the uk
 
#22 ·
Hi Newbie to this site, GSXRs and Suzukis but I had a much more extreme version of your problem. Weather here in UK been pretty poor and very busy at work so not been out for a couple of weeks.

Bike started fine but then cut out no fault indications until restarted and a not till approx. 5 miles down the road with missing, cutting out restarting itself with F1 light then light went out but still not running great. Eventually seemed fine now warmed up so rode for approx. another 20 miles before started missing again, was not sure how much fuel left so hit the garage only needed 12 litres and was a real pig to start or started but as tried to pull away cut out - managed to coax her home.

Bike a streetfighter and has had controls cables extended - managed to trace issue to fuel pump repressurizing but only when handlebars moved - crimp/wire had snapped for right hand controls but I guess like most bikes there are several interlocks - sidestand/clutch/"on/off" switch rh control - my issue. No codes in my case in dealer mode as bike kept on cutting out due to rh control switch.
 
#27 ·
Hi cheeseman,

The CHEC on your LCD panel is because after 5 seconds the ECM hasn't sent a signal to the LCD panel.

Check your stand switch and your kill switch. Also check wire harness where your speedo connects to ECM. I have the workshop manual up at the moment. Had similar faults on my K5 it's usually electrical.
The CHEC is NOT temperature related. I ride my bike in the sweltering Bangkok heat. Sometimes 43c my bike fan kicks in at 104c and off at 99c.

This I would say is a bad fuse, kill switch, connector issue or the kickstand.

I own a K5 1000 and a CBR929ee both had electrical, relay problems. Buy a multi meter, learn how to use it. If not have someone look at it that knows.
 
#26 ·
The problem seems to be fuel related, had a guy look at electrics and things seem to be in order.
Ive cleaned the filter in the fuel pump as was very dirty, it seems to have made the rev range more responsive at lower revs.
Just done 60 miles and it spluttered briefly twice at high revs, it was like a bit of shit went through the system.
The breather pipes were in the wrong place too so may of be kinked.
It would make sense being fuel related as the heat shouldnt effect the electrics.
I will see how the next few weeks go
 
#28 · (Edited)
"Ive cleaned the filter in the fuel pump as was very dirty"

That's ominous. The strainer at the bottom is cleanable but the real filter at the top is not and it's much finer. Do the flow test as described in the service manual.

You really need a multimeter and to know how to use it as there are lots of electrics on the bike. One of the things that you can do is to rig up one or more LEDs to monitor things. An important one is between the O/W and the B/W leads on the dealer mode connector (should be 12V). You can mount the LED up front where you can see it while riding. Duct tape will nicely hold things in place with leads back to the connector. However there are issues like LED polarity and current limiting resistor where you must either learn about that (not very complicated) or get someone involved who does. Simple/cheap indicators like that really cut through the crap by allowing you to see what's happening while you're moving.

P.S. When you see the price of the filter, you'll understand why saving money with cut rate gas can end up biting you in the ass.
 
#29 ·
Bugger about the finer filter in the pump. Im convinced its fuel linked. My guy came out on Thursday with his multi meter and checked all the likely subjects. Im actually out at the moment and its running fine like yesterday, its just when i sometimes wind the power back on exiting a corner its like it sounds like it is starved of fuel briefly and cuts back in, all very smoothly though. Its like the sync is slightly out or something? The fueling seems nice which is making it easy to describe. I need to get the fuel flow looked at by the sound of it. More expense.
Appreciate all the replies by the way.
 
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