Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com banner

Converting back to stock from a stretch and lower

6K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  Just_Nick 
#1 ·
I am in the process of logging the items I'll need to revert back to the stock swing arm length and stock height. I also have some questions:
A - I have most of the basic tools but could use a pointer if there is a specific tool for any of the functions involved
B - I have -1 +2 sprockets. Do I go back to stock? I have the original sprockets but need to give them a better look for wear. Speedo healer necessary to keep?
C - I know I will need a new brake line but should be able to adjust the chain by removing links. Is it that easy to shorten the chain? I have the chain tool.
D - Raising the bike is as simple as the 4-6 bolts on the forks and the dog bones for the rear that are adjustable. Do I replace the adjustable with the originals?

Any questions, comments or concerns are welcomed. I thoroughly enjoy working on my bike and not wasting money with a nobody for $80+ an hour. After replacing the clutch pack with the help of this forum, I feel like I can do this.
I know I'm throwing a lot out there but I want to make sure I do this right.

Things I have:
Front and rear stands
The basic sockets, wrenches and allens keys
Chain tool (I can't remember what it's called)
Original sprockets
Original dog bones
I might have the original chain (can't remember)
I do have the manual.

Things I'll need:
A shorter rear brake line (suggestions?)
Chain grease (suggestions?)
Chain brush/tool (suggestions?)
Breaker bar for rear axel?
Torque wrench needed? I have a foot/lbs wrench. (Manual should tell me)
Any specific tool?

Appreciate the knowledge from you weirdos. [emoji13]??
 
See less See more
#2 ·
A- You should be fine with the tools you have. The factory Suzuki specific tools are more important for complete disassembly of the bike. They still should make it to your tool box when you get a chance however. Unfortunately they're not cheap. Roughly $400 for a few weird looking sockets. :lol

B - You're gearing is totally optional and up to you. Remember shorter gearing will always be more exciting around town but will leave your bike revving higher on the freeways. It's up to you whether or not you're ok with that. Personally for me, -1 on the countershaft sprocket on a GSX-R1000 is enough. Keep the speedohealer, just make sure it's calibrated with your GPS.

C - Yes, you can shorten the chain but why not buy an entirely new chain/sprocket setup? Since you have a 10/11 year old bike I'd suggest replacing your drive chain entirely. Can't put a price on peace of mind.

D - Yes, raising the bike is just a matter of moving the forks through the triples. Your rear dog bones should already have a stock setting. Not sure what that is but some of the drag racing guys around here should be able to help. If still confused, buy some stock ones and be done with it.

I personally just use Motul for chain cleaner and lube. A bit expensive but hella convenient. Lots of guys around here just use kerosene as a cleaner with good results. You should be able to grab the chain brush from the same place you buy the cleaner and lube. Don't forget extra rags. For brake lines, I've always run Galfer. That's just my preference since I've run them street and race on all of my GSX-Rs but Spieglar and the other guys out there I'm sure are just as good.

The torque wrench you have should be fine. Just remember to never leave it set after working on your bike. :thumbup
 
  • Like
Reactions: BmineR
#3 ·
Wait, you're getting RID of an extended swingarm, and raising back to the stock heights?
GOOD CALL!

As said- if and when you replace your chain and sprockets- DONT go for cheapo aftermarket chains- I only know b/c I've read/seen pics of horror stories b/c of a NEW/Cheap chain.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out, and show us some pics too
 
  • Like
Reactions: BmineR
#4 ·
Appreciate the feedback. I've seen a thread on chains so I'll search for it and get what I can out of it to make a decision.
As for the sprockets, I do travel 150 miles round trip to the office occasionally. All highway. I get 1 tank of gas out of it. So I may just leave them alone. I just don't want to have to fight to keep the front end down as I don't know how much the stretch compensated for that.
My biggest fear is not setting (lining up) the rear wheel correctly. But there are markers and it should be just that easy.
Also, how much of the bike should I disassemble (fairing wise too) to make it easier? First time doing some major over haul (for me) and want to plan this out right.

I'll be sure to try and remember to take pictures as I go through.

Really appreciate you guys. I'm going to start this soon as April is right around the corner and she's been in storage all this time.
I still have to get the master cylinder recall done. Ugh
 
#5 ·
Are you reinstalling the original swingarm or something that you've bought. If the latter, you need to check/adjust the thrust clearance per 8-60 of the service manual. That requires a 19 mm hex driver pivot thrust adjuster socket that you may not have. A four dimension hex driver tool is available for relative little.

Brake fluid?

Yes you should reinstall the original dog bones.

"Breaker bar for rear axel?" Of course, and a 36 mm socket to properly torque it.

Unless you're familiar with the history of the chain and sprockets, you might as well replace everything and start over fresh. Don't put an old chain on new sprockets or vice versa. A reused chain should be measured to confirm that any stretch is within the allowable limits. That means a dial/digital caliper.

"My biggest fear is not setting (lining up) the rear wheel correctly. But there are markers and it should be just that easy." Those alignment marks aren't that hot. There are threads here about that.
 
#6 ·
Are you reinstalling the original swingarm or something that you've bought.

I bought the bike with swing arm extensions that I want to remove.
I guess I'll have to search on how to bleed the breaks as well.
Appreciate the details on socket size and tips. I need to search around for the sprockets and chain. Price is not an issue but not going to take shortcuts to save a few dollars either.
Any suggestions for sprocket and chain would be greatly appreciated.
 
#7 ·
What is the difference between the sprocket makes?
JT, Vortex, Driven, Sunstar and Renthal.
They seem to be more expensive in that order too with slight variations.
Example (from BikeBandit.com):

Steel Sprockets
JT Front 16 - $15
Vortex front 16 - $25
Sunstar front 16 - $23
JT Rear 44 - $42
Vortex Rear 43 - $47
Sunstar rear 43 - $49
Renthal is almost 2x the amounts above for front and rear.

There are so many chain options. I don't even know where to begin.
Whats the benefit of converting to a 520? what does that even mean?
 
#8 ·
Post #6 here has a bit of info. Check out Motomummy. Driven is another popular sprocket manufacturer. Racers run 520 chain/sprockets, which are narrower and weaker than 530. It and an aluminum sprocket is lighter. But it must be diligently maintained. The bottom pic here shows what can happen if not. Don't know about price but Renthal and AFAM are quality stuff, particularly if you're switching to 520. I see that JT makes cushioned front sprockets like the OEM.

For 520 aluminum I've always liked this AFAM product but it's become hard to find.
 
#9 ·
Post #6 here has a bit of info. Check out Motomummy. Racers run 520. It and an aluminum sprocket is lighter. But it must be diligently maintained. The bottom pic here shows what can happen if not. Don't know about price but Renthal and AFAM are quality stuff, particularly if you're switching to 520. I see that JT makes cushioned front sprockets like the OEM.


So it looks like JT has the cushioned sprockets locked down. Just need to find where to get one if not contacting JT directly. Im all about making some engine noise go away (or lessen the noise).

The second link you had gave me an error. Something about contacting the admin or trying again later.

What's funny is that the post you shared was where I got all the brand names to search on. The posted didn't really explain what a 520 meant besides lighter and for racers. It's a physically smaller chain/sprocket and made of different material to make it lighter.

I sat here and said to my wife that I've learned more about this bike in the past 6 hours then I would ever have because I didn't just roll up to a shop and say fix it.

Appreciate you guys. Keep'em coming.

No clips for the chain. Got it!
17 - Cushioned sprocket. On the list!
36 mm socket. On the list!
110 link chain. On the list!

Any crazy stuff for the rear sprocket I don't know about? Like a cushioned version?
 
#10 ·
Some links only work if you're logged on.

The 500 size chains have a 5/8" pitch, the c-c distance between rollers. The 20, 30, etc. designates the sprocket width. 30 is 3/8" while 20 is 1/4". There's also a 25. None of that designates the material. The simplest way to go is a steel 530 sprocket. You shouldn't use a 530 chain with a 520 sprocket.

There are rear sprockets that have a ring of steel teeth riveted to an aluminum center. That's too complicated for me. I also recommend against aluminum sprocket nuts or aluminum nuts with stainless inserts. They look pretty but are to be installed at reduced torque levels, which is highly questionable IMO.

The only cushions to worry about are in the rear wheel's cush drive. You ought to check yours while the wheel is off.

Note that the OEM gearing is 17/42.

In a quick look, I couldn't find any US sellers of the JT cushioned sprockets. Suzuki charges around twice as much as a German seller.
 
#12 ·
Search as there are numerous discussions here about both topics. RBF660 is popular if you're going racing. But it's pricey. I'm still using ATE Super Blue but it's no longer sold in the US (ATE Type 200 is the same except for the blue color and available). RBF600 is suitable for the street. I use Motul Factory Line chain lube but that's an endless discussion. PJ1 and Dupont Teflon Multi-Lubricant are popular. Don't use WD-40. I've been curious about Shell Advance Ultra Chain Lube but can't find it in the US. The service manual says to use "heavyweight motor oil" but I don't think that anyone here does that. The owner's manual says to use "chain lube...that is specifically intended for use with 0-ring chains".
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top