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Clutch adjuster movement

2K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  Crusty Geezer 
#1 ·
Hello,

I've got a quick one (I tried searching but came up empty) regarding the clutch-cable adjusting mechanism (on the bars). When you guys squeeze the clutch lever, does your cable-adjuster wheel move/load-up a little?

Thank you.
 
#2 ·
If the adjuster wheel is very far out, yes, it will have some movement. Have you tried doing a full clutch adjustment to see if you can get the wheel closer to the lever perch?
 
#3 ·
if you have a bunch of thread showing at the bar... either the case side is not adjusted properly, cable is stretched, or you are at the end of the pack wear life.
Ive see 2 so far this year where the cable housing was bottomed out at the countershaft cover.
 
#4 ·
Thank you both for the replies!

Anthony and TurboBlew, I haven't done a full adjustment. The lever adjuster is about 1/2 (of its total possible displacement) out. See the following pic:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-3Z756YERb0czhrcTRFTTNieVp5TXM3b29LQ2wyMm83RndR/view?usp=sharing


The adjuster actually moves on the threads. When I pull the lever, I can see the male threads (adjuster) move against the outward (from the bike's centerline) edges of the female threads. When the lever is released/at rest, the male threads center themselves again. I can take a video of the movement if it's helpful. I simply wasn't sure if this is normal or not.

Thank you again guys. I really appreciate the responses and feedback.
 
#5 ·
Yes, post a video please. Everything looks normal from the pic though.
 
#6 ·
You need to do a full adjustment. Do you know how its done?
 
#7 ·
Oldgixxer, I've got a copy of the service manual and owners manual, though it seems like they vary slightly in how the adjustment is done. I greatly appreciate any tips, tricks or preferred methods.

FWIW, the bike's got 9K miles on it.

As far as the lever adjuster, how far out do you let it go before you deem that an adjustment needs to be done at the case?

This is my first time doing a video so please let me know if there are issues with you guys being able to play it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-3Z756YERb0b3BWcTk4UFdvU1V2eXdVcmRoWDlENnR5Z0RV/view?usp=sharing

My apologies for the shaky camera. You can see the movement just as the lever is pulled and just as it is about to come back to rest.
 
#9 ·
#8 ·
there is some movement. Neither of my bikes do that but I have the cables pretty well lubed.
I suggest a good penetrating oil or even some trans fluid with an eye dropper or oil can squirter down the cable housing.
Adjustment at the countershaft should take up most of the cable slack sans a few mm. Maybe 2mm of slack at the most.
Then take the rest of the fine adjustment at the lever.

I would look at the inside threads to make sure they arent marred and have no debris.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Thank you guys! I really appreciate all of the help!

Oldgixxer, thank you for the page - that's a nice synopsis. It seems to omit adjusting the cable at the left-side case (the far end of the cable), however. If you feel that's important, it might be worth a footnote when throwing up the link (esp since only the service manual [not the owners manual] mentions it).

Turboblew, thank you for the feedback. I'll do my best to really clean the cable up and lube it. I'm a Mustang guy, and with the factory cables, they're teflon-lined and lube actually does more harm than good (because it attracts dust, which causes abrasion). Are these cables not in a similar situation? I ask because I'm in the desert and there's 20 pounds of dust on everything 5 minutes after one cleans it. DOH.

In looking at things and trying to understand the dynamics at hand, I had a question or two:

On the clutch-push piece (#2 in the link above), does that simply pivot in place? I noted the repeated warnings to hold it, and I didn't know if this was for some sort of indexing that occurs, or if it's simply so people don't spin the whole assembly while turning the adjusting screw (thus, accomplishing nothing)?

At the major adjustment, the screw adjuster (#4) only ended up 1/6th of a turn tighter. It seems to me that his adjuster relates to the amount of play on the arm where the cable attaches on the left side of the engine. After I had it set, I ensured that the arm could move (if that adjuster screw was set too tight, the arm would not move and that would be a red flag, no?).

Because the major adjustment accomplished nearly nothing, I checked the cable on the left-side case. It was as tight as it could be (probably having been that way from the factory). I took a good bit of slack out of the cable (the threaded rod which the cable enters is now almost flush with the case, where it used to stick outside the case quite a bit). How does one know when the cable is getting on the stretchy side? Is it as simple as the rod being about flush with the case (one would not want it recessed) and the lever adjuster being adjusted pretty far out, or is there more means of adjustment than stretchable tolerance?

BTW, before I started, I ran the lever adjuster all the way in and it still moves inside the lever assembly (the original purpose of the thread). If one braces the cable just past the adjuster, this slop is not seen. I guess I should try to rig something up to keep the adjuster's play 'preloaded'.

Thank you again guys. I really appreciate all of the help!
 
#13 ·
I didn't do too hot with replies on my second-to-last post before this. I understand; I tend to have long posts. I figured I'd try again with a TLDR synopsis and questions :)

On the clutch-push piece (#2 in the link above), does that simply pivot in place?

On the major adjustment, that just adjusts the freeplay in the arm that the cable attaches to, no?

How does one know when the cable is getting on the stretchy (and needing to be replaced) side?

What's your favorite cable lube and delivery method?
 
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