Say you were like I was with no idea on how to run a nitrous system. I had zero idea. I could wire it all up, thats the easy part. But how not to kill yourself or your bike was the shit i had no idea how to do or what to do.
So since no one made a thread yet, i took it upon myself to do so.
Do I have to Build my motor?
Best kit to use?
What all Do you need to not blow your shit up?
CLUTCH?? Always a biggy, do you upgrade or leave it stock?
Spark plugs? Colder? Hotter?
Do I need a tuner?pc, bazzaz?
Do i have to stretch my bike?
What gear to spray in?
When do I need to hit the spray?
All these questions were ones I had.
PLEASE READ THIS PART
I have not set up my dry nitrous system yet. So any actual technical questions about setting it up like directions, i may not be able to help 100% but ill do my best. And ill update the thread with info as much as possible and when i do install ill post pics.
Building your motor. Now ive been told the 30 shot will safely run on the k7/k8 gsxr 1000. Other bikes im not sure on so i would search to find out. But for the k7/k8 you dont have to build your motor but if you want to then by all means have a hay day.
What kit to use? Now I bought the MPS Dry nitrous spider system. its about 500$ It has 4 nozzles instead of one that spray into each intake stack.
You can use the Standard 300$ kit from mps but it only has 1 nozzle that you place in your airbox.
MPS comes with just about everything you needs for the nitrous parts. comes with directions on wiring it yo your horn or flash to pass button. the bottle, the nitrous kit. (all youll really need is the map switcher, programmer, spark plugs, cltch kit or springs, etc)
28(20hp),32(30hp),36(40hp) Safely im going with the 32 jet which is a 30hp shot. Ive been told the shot amounts are pretty legit on hp output. 30= really does put 30 to the wheel.
Now ive been told on numerous occasions that 30 shot will run fine on my stock 07 gsxr 1000 motor. Ive got all the bolt on stuff but i havent built the motor at all. But if you want ive been told upgrading your head gasket wont hurt.
Clutch. Oh i was so worried about the clutch. like i had no idea if i needed a whole new clutch system if stock would be fine or what not. Ive been told stock is ok for short term but strongly recommend uswing 3-6 hd springs(stiffer springs) or upgrading the clutch completely. You dont want slippage when on nitrous because as soon as it catches up up and away you go.
DO NOT USE HOTTER PLUGS.
Id use colder plugs and i bought CR9E but you could probably also run cr10e which are a step colder.
YOU DO NEED TO HAVE A AIR/FUEL CONTROLLER FOR TUNING. DOESNT MATTER WHAT YOU HAVE YOU JUST HAVE TO HAVE ONE.
Stretching, fuck that. You can if you want but i just wanted to have some sneaky peat in the back seat to vroom vroom. Of course your more likely to wheelie. but hey just dont slam er down and blow out ur forks seals and youll be set.
(for non stretched bikes)You can spray during any gear you want but its strongly suggested not doing it in 1st or 2nd because youll definitely be flipping over. when i can stand the bike up in 2nd with power alone at 80mph nitrous will flip you over.
Depending on your gearing, speed, etc spraying in 3rd can be good or bad also.
4th gear is a good gear but id strongly suggest you hit it in 6th first, see how it acts, then 5th, see how it acts, then 4th if you think it wont flip the fuck over.
When to spray. ABSOLUTELY DO NOT SPRAY ANYWHERE NEAR REDLINE, You dont want to be redlining when your spraying because that will destroy your motor. Its so bad for your motor i cant even begin to put it into words.
OldGixxer(Info Given) You will need to install a RPM Window switch to shut off the nitrous incase you miss a shift or anything causing you to hit redline. ll cut off the nitrous to keep you from destroying you hard earned money.
You can spray just about whenever, some drag racers with quickshifters will spray in first. or they will start in 2nd or 3rd and spray on launch. I will never spray in 1st, 2nd, or probably even 3rd.
For dry kit, top of the bottle needs to be angled down as low as possible. and bottom needs to be up.
YOU HAVE TO HAVE A ON-THE-GO MAP SWITCHER FOR THE PCV OR PC3 OR WHATEVER YOUR USING.
MPS sells the map switcher.
Map Switcher = For regular driving use. Youll need a map not set up for nitrous so you have your regular power map and a nitrous map. For instance put the new plugs on. Get it dynod without spray to the most power you can get. Thats map 1. Then get it dyno tuned for spraying nitrous(itll be a lesser hp tune) but adds more fuel when your hitting the nitrous.
You cant have the same tune for both. Well you can. if its a nitrous only map. But you cant run nitrous on a dynod map for your bike without nitrous or youll blow something up or itll run like shit because its not adding fuel when it needs to or itll add to much.
On the go map switcher means you have your normal non nos map running at all times. then when your going to spray the nitrous switch to the nitrous map by flipping the switch then hit the nitrous.(ITS LITERALLY JUST A SWITCH YOU MOUNT TO YOUR CLIP-ONS.)
YOU CAN HIDE A 1 POUND BOTTLE IN THE TAIL SECTION OF A 07-08 GSXR 1000 BY CUTTING A FEW THINGS.
If you have any questions feel free to ask, and people out there using dry nitrous if i have something wrong here please feel free to let me know so i can add info. Thanks!
Last edited by Paintballer95; 12-06-2012 at 03:04 PM.