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Motor studs?

4K views 23 replies 4 participants last post by  Stuned 
#1 ·
I have been searching around and come up short, i have herd of using 01-03 1000 studs in the 01-03 750 with some modification. I am building a high power motor and studs are a must, I need both big end studs and cylinder studs, any chance of a little more info on the modification required to make them work.

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
Think I read your other post&your target HP is around 350rwhp? OEM 1000 studs will not do the job as well as aftermarket studs in that case. If you were building a boosted 1st Gen 1k w 350rwhp you would need to get stronger studs as well so using the stock ones from the 1k in the 750 build will not do. Studs are cheap,any machine shop will be able to fit the larger ones if you have issues.
 
#3 ·
Sorry, to clear things up, I am building a Boosted 02 GSXR 750 and high strength studs are a must and the only manufacture i have found for bike studs is ARP so i am looking at getting ARP studs not OEM bolts. But the issue is that ARP do not make studs to suit the 02 750. I searched around the net for a few hours and found a few people saying that the used the ARP studs from a 1st gen GSXR 1000 but to make them fit the 750 there is some modification required....I cant seem to find any info on this so called modification. :banghead it is really starting to hurt my head.
 
#6 ·
Ok,that clears it up as I was thinking you wanted to use OEM 1K studs.Sorry for the shit advice then:biggrin
 
#5 ·
I am not entirely sure, I still have the OEM bolts, What is the best way to find out the dimensions? I have a set of digital vernier callipers if that helps. I am assuming that id just mesure the OD of the threads and the length of the bolts but as for the pitch i am a little unsure.

Maj750...You know who i am but i cant seem to figure out who you are...Greg? Luke? Scott? :scratch
 
#8 ·
I was chatting with Luke last night and he said the 1st gen 1k head studs dropped straight in with no modification...:scratch none the less il get ya the mesurements tonight after work. Case studs are the next thing on the list, I will get the mesurements for them aswell.

Greg did you get my last email? Think im still gana need that plenum from ya if your still keen, i got all the material to make one myself but the apprentice killed the tig welder last week :hammer
 
#9 · (Edited)
The orignal head bolts are 9.6mm thread OD, 8.1mm non thread OD, 105mm length from bottom of head to bottom of thread, 1.25mm thread thickness and 30mm thread length.

The orignal case bolts are 8.75mm thread OD, 6.25mm non thread OD, 95mm length from bottom of head to bottom of thread, 1.15mm thread thickness and last but not least 26mm thread length.

Some one correct me if I am wrong but both my head and case bolts look forged and have clear marks on them from being on a lath.
 
#10 ·
I would call Ape, they should know what fits, since they dont list any thing!
 
#11 ·
Go with Lukes recommendations on the head studs if he has actually used them , i was fairly sure the bolts/studs would interchange
the main studs will interchange, i have a set here that measure 108 long including the top thread for the nut
be sure the main studs have clearance in the cases, i am currently changing a set of main bearings that measured up good with bolts, but then i changed to studs by just swapping them out , and ran the bearings first use, lucky it was not bad enough to heat or hurt the crank, just the motor smelt bad and i went looking

hey i just brought some carrillos for your model, several sets of old stock , going to modify at least one set to fit the srad.
just let me know about the plenum , i need lots of notice as work is flat out , doing 16 hr days
 
#12 ·
Orient is loving me at the moment i think, just added the studs and nuts to my order from them, once the package arrives i will post up the fitment of the full stud kit to clear the air for 750 studs.

I did start this build with the intention of just doing a mild build and low psi aiming for only 180-200hp....but i just cant stop :twitch I first expected to run 6-8 psi and spend about 2k on the whole build and do all the work myself but that is all out the window now at over 3.5k on just internal parts.

I have thort about it for a while and it seems the best option for fuel is to do the build and get a dyno tune with the motor decompressed and and turbo bolted on but tune it with no boost going into the motor then use a boost sensitive FIC to run secondary injectors for only on boost. The only one i can see as a viable option is a SDS XIC< this is there website, bare in mind the best option for tuning is a shop that only deals with PC and tunes with a wideband and only aims for 12.5-13.5 AFR which is fine if your looking for a little increase over stock but is a pain when you want a tune done that requires a little more than just pressing + or - on a keypad or have i just over thought the whole thing and have it all wrong?:wtf

Anyone else agree with my theory of tuning my bike or are there other things to take into account? Surely tuning is not as simple as pug it in, set ya timing, hit the aimed AFR then ride off into the sunset...:burnout
 
#13 ·
On a side note Greg I will get that plenum with injector pots and cooler off ya, just swing me a email with what you need from me and your details and we will go from there. Not so much of a rush with it as it is almost crissy after all and we could all do with a little break, plus I am considering running the motor in a little with it decompressed and without the turbo.
 
#14 ·
Ok will send a note .

I don't like the sds for what your doing, tried programming via a hand controller on the early microtechs, too cumbersome,
if you want to go secondary controller the microtech is tried and true, i will send you the number of the factory in Sydney, and what you have to specify to order the right setup

alternately i think we have discussed the option of 07 gsxr1000+ ecu conversion, that works very well too
 
#15 ·
I would very much like to run the 07 ecu but due to the tuning shops in Darwin i have very limited options. 2 of the three shops dont even have there dyno's set up and the other shop only wants to tune PC's or controllers with a + or - on them and he says that using numbers to tune is going to be a little complicated for him...

To put all stupidity and bikes a side for a moment, are there any options out there for a stand alone boost sensitive fuel controller that will run 4 injectors along side the OEM injectors that even a monkey can figure out?
 
#16 ·
Microtech ! once described as hammer and chisel simple
asked a mate up there who to use, he has a turbo busa and has used editor

Learn to do the tuning yourself and just let them operate the dyno, had to do that a lot before i brought my own dyno, most ran the busa to boost once then were happy to get off it , the surge forward seemed to upset them ;)
 
#17 ·
Microtech MT-2 or LT-4 fuel only? The way they are described by Microtech the MT-2 seems like the best option...

Whats wrong with the feeling of a gixxer slapping ya chest in 4th or 5th gear :dunno :wackoSounds like a great thrill to me :yumyum Perhaps in a year or two I may get a chance to chase your record down the salt flats :banana:woohoo

Any idea for ram tube block off plates that will keep the front looking sexy without a mouthful of shiny metal?
 
#18 ·
mt/lt 2 , but get the 3 bar sensor and 12000rpm options , tuning at 12 is fine for the higher rpm as fuel demand is decreasing at that point and it only goes slightly rich
my first 750 9 yrs ago ran a mt4 as standalone fuel only , and used many microtechs since
That would be good to get some competition in the class, its a bit lonely at the moment
actually the Aussie records are very soft , 50 mph down on the Bonneville best passes
 
#21 ·
50 mph difference Kim has done 238 at Bonneville and 188 here
but we have not run here for several yrs due to weather
my best is 229 on the 750 and 257 on the busa , Kim fits the 750 better than me and it shows in the speeds

a little richer, not enough to be an issue and much better than lean
you will be tuning on the rich side anyway to keep the piston temps down on hi boost levels
 
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