wanted a second opinion here on what the problems could be
anything above 50 mph I get a choppy sputtering sensation as if I'm out of gas, I lose/drop power. tach goes crazy and drops to zero.
the speedometer/lights stays on the whole time.
Anything under 50 mph it runs fine.
Afterwards, I removed the air filter box, reached and pulled out the ignition coils and noticed one of them was cracked on the side.
would that cause this problem?
Charging system test, particularly making sure that the R/R isn't putting out too much voltage at, say 5000rpm.
Check the sidestand springs and switch to make sure it stays fully engaged and works properly. I notice in your video the engine seems to cut out intermittently then lose (electrical) power altogether and the sidestand switch might explain it. Easiest test would be to disconnect it and temporarily bridge the wires at the harness-side connector to see if that helps. Don't operate it permanently like that.
It would help if you would describe the incident in more detail. For instance did the engine stall at the end, or did you hit the stop switch for some reason? How does the tach go crazy exactly? When does the problem start and how? I see the red warning light turn on at the end, but did it also say 'CHEC' at the lower-right? Did 'FI' flash there perhaps? What happened afterwards? Does it have problems now?
Finally, I have no experience with used ignition coils, but I assume getting one would be ok, provided you don't mind the shorter service life that is to be expected. Perhaps it would be a good idea to try looking up the part number, checking what models it fits and getting one from the newest compatible model.
I put in a shunt mosfet r/r about a few months ago.
how much voltage should it put out at 5000rpm? and where do I do a charging system test? do i take a multimeter to the battery?
It would help if you would describe the incident in more detail. For instance did the engine stall at the end, or did you hit the stop switch for some reason? How does the tach go crazy exactly? When does the problem start and how? I see the red warning light turn on at the end, but did it also say 'CHEC' at the lower-right? Did 'FI' flash there perhaps? What happened afterwards? Does it have problems now?
engine stalls at the end, i did not hit the stop switch. problem starts when i go around 50mph. everything below that the bike runs smooth/normal. i havent replicated the issue yet where i stall completely.
i bought a used ignition coil and replaced my cracked one, still getting same problems/symptoms listed above.
I tend to agree also. However, checking the side stand is the simplest of the tests and a way to eliminate that variable in this equation. I only asked because it was suggested, and OP never mentioned it.
Sorry guys I've been sitting on this for a while now. I finally managed to mess with the kickstand switch.
I disconnected the switch's coupling underneath the gas tank and bridged the connection. Now when I go from neutral to first the bike cuts out immediately. I figured I bridged it incorrectly so I plugged the coupling back and duct taped the actual damn switch by the kickstand. I'm still getting the bike shutting off when I put it from neutral to first. Funny thing is if I start the bike in first, with the clutch pulled, in I can ride away but whenever I put it into neutral then first it cuts out. Occasionally. I haven't bothered to go above 40mph since it looks like I have another problem now.
I don't think I have the manual, tools, and mechanical inclination to check out the electrical charging components. I'm about to throw in the towel and tow my bike to a shop either today or tomorrow.
Will keep this updated. Thanks.
14.16 is what the multimeter reads at 5k rpm. My battery might be a bit low from me turning it on and off a lot in the past few days troubleshooting.
12.58 when the bike is off
Pretty sure those are good numbers . Did you replace that cracked coil yet ?
Do you have a aftermarket Clutch lever ? The reason I ask is I have ASV Levers on my bike and had adjusted the clutch lever in to close to the bar one time and to my surprise I couldn't start my bike one day because the lever wasn't engaging the clutch safty switch . Another thing you may want to try is a fuel flow test .
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