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GSXR-600 K2 Battery issue

4K views 26 replies 5 participants last post by  bojan_pb 
#1 ·
Hello all,

I bought new battery, type that has acid in separate container, and I put it on bike without charging at all. The guy in a shop told me it needs to be formatted for 12 hrs, but my uncle convinced me that it doesn't need to be charged before initial use.
I drove the bike for 15 minutes after installing the battery, everything was fine. I started the bike several times after ride to make sure everything is OK.
I left it over night and in the morning it started all fine, but when I tried to start it again I get that clicking sound, pump goes on it does everything it should but there is not enough power in the battery to start it. When i jump started it, it runs fine, but I couldn't get it to start with button.

Have I made the mistake by not charging the battery before initial use, or my stator or r/r went broken?

P.S. The battery is slightly weaker then the one I had before in amps, and is some Chinese sh*t, the only one they had in the store. I haven't done any tests of the charging system yet.

Thanks!
 
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#3 ·
I need to test this. I mentioned in my post that I haven't done any testing. I just want to get opinions before I perform tests.
I will post my test results when I get them.
I just wanted to hear general opinions and hands on experience with kind of issue.
 
#4 ·
I need to test this. I mentioned in my post that I haven't done any testing.
You said that you haven't done any testing of the charging system. The stator and RR are the charging system. You can have a bike with no charging system that runs only off the battery until it dies, know as a total loss system.

So in other words you haven't tested the battery or the charging system.
 
#5 ·
Sorry didn't get you. I was thinking when the bike is running what voltage am I getting.

I haven't check the battery neither.

But what do you think is it possible that bike couldn't charge the battery to the top, for such a short period of time running, and that i have emptied the battery
with so many starts, and it has been on contact for significant amount of time. Or does this ultimately means bad charging system?

Thanks.
 
#6 ·
My opinion, load the battery, fully charge it, install in bike.

At this point, all I can suggest is that you fully charge the battery then start by testing the battery voltage and then work your way through the charging system tests if you still have an issue.
 
#9 ·
13 is charging.. But, lower side. It's very possible you blew a portion of your stator. Or, the three wires leading to the RR have so much crap on them, they are heating up and melting. I would pull your stator cover and look at it. No test will help with this. They can test good, but only way to really know, is by looking at it. You can have 1-2 burned ears, and still charge. Your bike will run for a bit, but when you stop after riding, I bet you'll be slow starting. Stator, clean three wires.. Your RR is working if you have 13.x volts at your battery when on.. Rr is supposed to convert to DC from AC, and keep the DC from reaching over 15 volts..
 
#11 · (Edited)
the battery should have come with instructions by manufacturer. those would have been way better to follow than the bogus info from shop and uncle. not putting a charged battery in a bike is only making it do that much more work to charge it to full. if you are charging at barely under 13V, 15 minutes of riding didnt charge enough at all to hold charge. you need some rev time to charge stuff. check your stator like suggested

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
 
#12 ·
At idle, depending where that's at, it's not going to charge much! These system works with fast your rpm, more it charges! First, a good battery. Bad battery will keep voltage down! Second, check and clean all connections from stator, to reg to battery! Third, if you clean all above, have no resistance, then I would be willing to bet the stator! Your garage should never tell you to stick an half charged battery in the bike! This is bad! Put needless strain on your sensitive charging system.
 
#13 ·
I haven't had much time these days to inspect everything. But what I managed to see is that the previous owner cut out all the connectors and connected wire to wire. I guess I'll need to check if there is current leakage, then step by step. I will do this on this weekend. Will let you all know if I found the issue or I will come with more questions :)
 
#15 ·
Can't really test for current. It would be voltage lacking. Measure AC volts from stator side, to voltage reg side.. See what the diff is. If anything, you have resistance. Then do same for power out of RR, to battery.
 
#16 ·
I've tested the stator and regulator yesterday. Both are for garbage. I get crazy readings from stator when I test it negative to battery negative and positive on all three yellow wires. It goes from 0.01 to 0.04 ohm. And on RR I'm getting readnigs in every situation there are no zeros.
 
#17 ·
Do you have a book for testing it? And are you good with a meter? Honestly, most stators, when they deep cycle, burn up. Pull your cover and have a look see.. Simple and quick.
 
#18 ·
Yes I have a service manual. It has resistance when I connect negative on meter to battery negative and positive on three yellows wire sepparately. On each one i have readings and according to theanual there sholudn't be any reading at all not even '0'.
 
#19 ·
Do you actually know how to use a meter? And proper terminology? If not, start their. If you do (and don't take offense please, no butt hurt. But if you don't know how, it's not gonna help) the manual will tell you where yo place your test leads, and a graph of what should be present, and not.

Once you get a friend to help, or figure out OHM's scale and what it means, then post up your results. Please.
 
#20 ·
I didn't want to bother you with actual numbers, I thought that you would understand me. Fully charged battery 13.1V. On bike runing, idle 12.31V, on 5k rpm 12.8V.
Regulator I'm getting different results than the one in the manual. When you take postive probe do b/w wire and negative probe to three black wires you should get voltage around 1.4 V I don't have manual in front of me. Stator - there should not be any reading or sound if you have that type of meter. I take negative probe and place it on negative lead on battery, and positive probe on all three yellow wires from stator and i get beep and reading so it means, accordin to the manual that it is a faulty stator. And Than I take the negative probe and place it on first connector and so that every one is wired with everyone, and tehere should be 0.5-1.5 ohms and I get 1.6 - 1.9.
 
#22 ·
you should just solder the wires instead of using a connector. I used a NEW connector with new crimps etc and it burned out again.. (yes I made sure it was crimped correctly)
 
#24 ·
Why is it a PITA? unscrew bolt, take off cover. check. remount and bolt up.. It s not like you are going to be taking it off every oilchange.
 
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