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Charging system problems....

2K views 15 replies 3 participants last post by  DamnItSusan 
#1 ·
Hello Everyone, I want to first start by saying I am new to the site and the motorcycle world. I own a 2001 Suzuki GSXR600. I just recently got the bike and had it for a few days went out and got my endorsement and went out riding. I rode my bike for about 30miles the first day no issues(that i knew of) parked it for the night. Next day I go out and start it just fine get ready to take off and STALL!(rookie mistake forgot kickstand was down opps!) so i put the stand up and tried to restart it...dead battery wouldnt make a complete rotation. So I get the bike jumped and go out riding for about an hour. Turned it off and on every time i stopped for a small break fires up no issues. Again I go home and park it. Next day....Starts up no problem rode it for 30 miles stopped for a few hours then started back up fine and rode to a friends home 30 miles. Stopped BS for a little then went to go out riding with him 15mins down the road my Neutral light starts to dim, next the gauges turn off no sooner than i could pull over the bike shuts off wont restart wont make a complete rotation. get it into a truck and back to y friends for diagnostics. Connector to R/R was melted, Cut the connectors and hard wired it. bike started but the Battery Voltage AT IDLE was climbing 14..15..16...17... I shut it down WTH! So my R/R is fried. I took off the stator cap and looked at it, it looked normal EXCEPT 2 areas were a bit darker(not black or brown) but a darker shade of green(ebay???was hardwired in). So I reinstalled the Stator, replaced the R/R and checked it again with testing all numbers were within spec so im like well lets ride it and see how it goes. 2hr ride with my friend no issues. Took breaks to let bikes cool. Rode another hour with my friend a bit harder this time (E-Way) got back to his house right before pulling into his Driveway I noticed the Headlight had dimmed as I downshifted. Pulled it into his garage and checked the battery at Idle 13.00 reved it to 5K and its climbing to 16.7-17.0 Volts!!!! Not sure if I fired the R/R again it was a new Electrosport with a 1yr warranty, Stator is frying the R/R???. The R/R was hot to touch after about 2-3secs of holding my finger on it. no wires were hot to touch or burnt that i could see/feel. Need help...again the Bike currently is idling at about 13.0V and increases with RPMS. I am letting it cool down tonight, check to see if it is still increasing Volts with RPMs and if not then im going to do a 15min or less ride and retest. Any Help would be great....Replace the Stator and send out R/R or ???? Thanks and I know Badluck :suicide
 
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#2 ·
My Test results from the First time I tested the stator....

Engine off:
Wire 1-Wire2: 0.6 ohms
Wire 2-Wire 3: 0.6 ohms
Wire 1-Wire 3: 0.5 ohms

Engine on no wires went to ground had a reading of 0.00/0L
Didnt do the 5k RPMs test right because i had it set to ACV and not DCV (oops)
As said before the R/R was fried so I replaced it with an Electrosport R/R
 
#3 ·
Stator is AC.

If you read ohms and you read 0, then you have a short, not an open. If you say that none went to ground when you read 0, are you reading from one of the wires to ground? If so then they do go to ground.
 
#5 ·
#9 ·
Sounds like a bad regulator to me. The stator is providing voltage and current for charging! The stator puts out AC voltage! The regulator is a bridge rectifier! This will convert the AC to DC, and drop the voltage down to 13-14.5 volts! Current is hard to measure with the bike. Only real way to check a stator is by pulling the cover. I've had many bikes that charged funny.. They seem to have the right voltage, but charging sucked! When pulling out the stator, I found that one or two ears were burned! So, it would charge, but not enough, and put the electrical system to strain!

Replace the RR, clean ALL connections! Make sure your bike power cables hit the battery first, and then accessories after that!

Long story short, sounds like your RR is not doing the job.
And ricks has good products, but paying extra for a Modified RR, does nothing till you give it more juice to play with. I always replace all three items at once! RR, Stator, and battery! Cheep insurance for long hauls. Over charging a battery is just as bad as under charging.
 
#10 ·
#11 · (Edited)
Thats all understandable but what do you think is causing the R/R to fail? If the stator is good what else could cause this? My problem I believe to be is my Stator is overcharging my R/R and thats causing it to fail. ive gone through 2 R/R in a week.

I replaced the R/R the first time with the Electrosport, checked everything...Wire harnass, battery, voltage and everything checked out good so i did a ride test and checked it every 45mins or so all was good until i got back to my friends and then when i checked it later its 14.3V at Idle and increases with an increase in RPMs on the engine. so my R/R is failing again and if its not the Stator causing it then what could it be?
 
#12 ·
Thats all understandable but what do you think is causing the R/R to fail? If the stator is good what else could cause this? My problem I believe to be is my Stator is overcharging my R/R and thats causing it to fail. ive gone through 2 R/R in a week.
Don't think your stator is over charging. The RR should be able to take a difference of 30+ volts difference and only output a couple of volts difference, and it clearly is not doing that. Failing stator normally stops putting out VAC, not too many VAC.

Normal killer of the RR is over heating. It is possible that the replacement you got was a dud.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Well I cant test the stator again until I have a working R/R because im not going to risk catching the bike on fire due to an unregulated amount of voltage going to the battery. So I guess I need to figure out If im going to buy a New Stator, Battery, and R/R and replace all of it....Or wait for this company I got the R/R from to send me a new one to test Stator again/see if R/R is working properly.

The OEM R/R had a melted connector so i hardwired it to see if that was the problem...nope it was the R/R was fried. So i ordered a new Electrosport one, installed it, tested the voltage to battery as listed above and it all checked out, couple hours later 15+Volts under Engine load.

Im wondering If i Relocate the replacement it will last longer??? If I get the Electrosport R/R replaced and install it and it goes bad again in less than 1yr im sending it back and ordering a MOSFET R/R
 
#15 ·
UPDATE: so I tested the rectifier and stator. The rectifier failed one part of the test in the owners Manuel specs. The black with red stripe wire to the battery ground had no reading and the black with red stripe to the black with white stripe wire had no reading either way I tried. The stator wires all tested at .6 ohms. None of the wires went to zero when tested to see if they were grounded. With engine running at idle battery was at 14.5v the wires read 13-16vac. With engine running at 5k RPMs the voltage did not go past 16vac.....something is wrong considering it should be around 65volts. Rectifier was warm to touch after testing and still shows battery voltage increasing to 18volts+ with rpm increase. I don't see any melted or burnt wires.
 
#16 ·
To be more specific, the rectifier test where the (-) probe to B/R wire and (+) probe to B/W is suppose to read 0.5-1.2....mine read 0L. and when I checked the "The Black with red strip wire at the plug to ground. It should not be close to zero or it is shorted to ground and the rectifier is junk.-remanuto1187"(taken from thread http://www.gixxer.com/forums/18-01-...d-help-possible-stator-rectifier-problem.html) I got a zero reading.

When I tested the stator the Generator No-load performance test in the service manual (More than 65V @5k RPMS) failed I was only getting 16.5-16.7V at 5K RPMs and 13-15V at Idle.
 
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