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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Bizarre cut-out

So I started the SRAD after about a month and all went well - bogged down a little at first and sounded like it ran on three cylinders for a little while, but then perked up and warmed up fine. Put it on idle whilst checking tyre pressures and all of a sudden the bike dies, not immediately, but sounded like it lost power and within a couple of seconds cut out. CHEC on, FI light on and wouldn't start. I tried putting into the dealer mode to get a fault code, but the LCD stays displaying CHEC. The fuel pump does not prime and both fuel and ignition fuses are fine. So it looks clearly electrical, but where do I start?

Last edited by mazzla; 05-16-2017 at 07:53 AM. Reason: additional information
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

Oh, I also have Healtech's gear indicator with TRE and it keeps flicking between 0 and 1 like it is getting a pulsing signal - which possibly eliminates the sidestand switch issue otherwise the electrics would just be dead and the gear indicator wouldn't be flickering... Also I have the neutral light on and all of the electrics are working. I had an issue with the TOS in the past where it cut out the engine and prevented the bike from starting, but at least I could pull a code for it, this time - NADA, no codes are coming up as per the first post. 30 min later... I let the bike stand for a little while and went to turn it on again, pump primed and bike started, ran for 3 seconds, died and reverted back to its belligerent behavior. So the pump itself and the starting "nuts and bolts" seem to be fine.

Last edited by mazzla; 05-16-2017 at 08:35 AM.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 10:21 AM
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

I'd start with measuring battery voltage. Can you still crank the engine?
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

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Originally Posted by dpapavas View Post
I'd start with measuring battery voltage. Can you still crank the engine?
Definitely not battery (IMO) - the bike started on half a turn first time, got warmed up and only then cut out. Now there's no sign of life from the starter button and the fuel pump wouldn't prime, but all of the electrics are on. I am mostly baffled by the "CHEC" it is sitting there as if the kill switch is on (which it isn't because the Healtech gear position indicator goes off when I use it - i.e. it's operating correctly) or the bike is in gear with the side stand down, but putting the side stand up doesn't make any difference. Also the aforementioned Healtech GI Pro constantly flickers between 0 and 1 like the gear position sensor is faulty... but even if that was the case, with the sidestand up and clutch in - the bike should prime, right? Also, regarding the battery - it had "a moment" where it came back to life and started easy, but shortly died again.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 11:47 AM
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

Could you bypass the safety on the clutch and stand switches to see if it works.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

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Originally Posted by Edsrad View Post
Could you bypass the safety on the clutch and stand switches to see if it works.
I am sure I could if I knew how... Is there a walk-tru somewhere?
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 12:06 PM
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

Disconnect the block connector from the switch ( with two wires ). You will need two male connectors and a small piece of wire. To put in either side of the block connector, so as to bypass the switch. Basically you are connecting the two wires together ( without cutting anything ). Just to see if you can get her pumping and cranking.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

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Disconnect the block connector from the switch ( with two wires ).
Legend! The same process for the clutch and side stand switches?
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 12:35 PM
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

Yes, hope it helps to get you up and running.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 04:16 PM
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

Well if you read 'CHEC' on the dash, the ECU is offline, so it's not going to start, even if you crank it. So, to get this straight, right now it doesn't crank, it says 'CHEC' and the gear indicator is flickering, but it goes off when you switch the engine stop switch to "STOP"? Any idea how the gear indicator is connected, particularly where it gets its power from? From what I understand, it might be somewhere close to the engine stop switch connector and It may be the source of your problem.
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 04:23 PM
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

So does the bike think it is in gear, hence the no cranking or pump ?
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 04:16 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

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Originally Posted by dpapavas View Post
Well if you read 'CHEC' on the dash, the ECU is offline, so it's not going to start, even if you crank it. So, to get this straight, right now it doesn't crank, it says 'CHEC' and the gear indicator is flickering, but it goes off when you switch the engine stop switch to "STOP"? Any idea how the gear indicator is connected, particularly where it gets its power from? From what I understand, it might be somewhere close to the engine stop switch connector and It may be the source of your problem.
Hello again good Sir! You helped me in the past . All correct - when I turn the ignition on, the pump does not prime, all electrics come on and the GI starts flickering between 0 and 1 (not on/off). If I flip the killswitch the GI goes out - I think I powered it off of the rear brake switch power as advise by Healtech. Also, whilst the GI is flickering, if I press the start button the GI goes out for 3 seconds before coming back on. The LCD stays in CHEC no matter what I do - side stand up/down, killswitch on/off - I cannot get the bike into the dealer mode because of it.
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 04:22 AM
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

No, unless the interlock behaves differently in pre-K models, which is not the case, as far as I remember, the bike should start just fine even in gear, assuming the sidestand switch is down. My assumption is, that whatever was done when installing the gear indicator, particularly the wiring modification made to power it, which seems to have been made after the engine stop switch, has caused power to be lost downstream of it. It might also be, that it's barely receiving power itself, causing the erratic behavior.
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 04:24 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

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Originally Posted by Edsrad View Post
So does the bike think it is in gear, hence the no cranking or pump ?
F*ck knows mate... If it did, then I should still be able to start it with the side stand up, no? The thing is - neutral light on the dash is on as it should be, but the GI is flickering, when I put the bike into 1st/2nd the gears are displayed properly. I am going to try to bypass the sidestand switch tomorrow and see if it makes any difference. If not will move on to the gear position switch, it's a pain in the face to get to though and I recently replaced it, so I sincerely hope it's not it.
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 05:35 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

Quote:
Originally Posted by dpapavas View Post
My assumption is, that whatever was done when installing the gear indicator, particularly the wiring modification made to power it, which seems to have been made after the engine stop switch, has caused power to be lost downstream of it. It might also be, that it's barely receiving power itself, causing the erratic behavior.
The GI has been on the bike for about a year now with no issues (apart from the fact that I had to change the GPS, which had to be changed). Would the power issue cause the CHEC/power down problem? What do you suggest I do?
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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 05:39 AM
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

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If I flip the killswitch the GI goes out - I think I powered it off of the rear brake switch power as advise by Healtech.
I find this unlikely, since it is obviously switched via the engine stop switch. That would imply that it's drawing power from the O/W wire coming out of the switch, which generally only powers injection system components (the ECU being one of them). Another possibility, would be that it is powered through the O/W lead at the dealer mode switch. That would be best, but if the wiring has been spliced to draw power for the GI, it might well be that a problem was introduced, cutting power to the ECU.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mazzla View Post
Also, whilst the GI is flickering, if I press the start button the GI goes out for 3 seconds before coming back on.
Even though the starter does not turn? Or does it?
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

Hmmm... I will need to have another look tomorrow which lead I spliced for power. Definitely not the dealer mode switch lead - the GI power wire would not extend beyond the tank, so I had to pick something that was in easy reach, if I remember correctly it was a wire on the right hand side of the bike under the back (seat) end of the tank, that's why I thought it was the rear brake switch power.

No, the startor motor does not turn - no power to the startor or the fueling system at all.
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

Quote:
Originally Posted by dpapavas View Post
I find this unlikely, since it is obviously switched via the engine stop switch. That would imply that it's drawing power from the O/W wire coming out of the switch, which generally only powers injection system components (the ECU being one of them). Another possibility, would be that it is powered through the O/W lead at the dealer mode switch. That would be best, but if the wiring has been spliced to draw power for the GI, it might well be that a problem was introduced, cutting power to the ECU.
I lifted up the tank and now I am 100% sure that I powered the GI PRO off of the rear brake switch. I know it makes little sense since with the killswitch off the GI PRO goes off, but the rear brake light still works - I have no clue how this is possible. I tried to attach a photo, not sure if it worked (picture taken from the left side of the bike - red wire under my thumb)... Also here's a quick vid of what I am seeing:
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File Type: jpg IMAG0077[1].jpg (19.3 KB, 2 views)

Last edited by mazzla; 05-18-2017 at 09:11 AM. Reason: comment
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 09:20 AM
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

Ok, something very weird seems to be going on here. For starters, why is the GI changing flickering with such precise timing, clicking at each change? Where does the clicking come from?
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Bizarre cut-out

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Originally Posted by dpapavas View Post
Ok, something very weird seems to be going on here. For starters, why is the GI changing flickering with such precise timing, clicking at each change? Where does the clicking come from?
The clicking is from the unit itself. Do you think I should try to cut the unit out of the circuit - it's just a matter of unplugging it and connecting the GPS back directly to the ECU? I can't remember whether I had to splice any of the ECU wires for GI...
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