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1998 GSXR 600 Cut out while driving, now wont start.

5K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  dpapavas 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, first time post so forgive me if i leave anything out important

I have a 1998 GSXR 600 N714 SRAD Motorbike with 86k km's on the clock.

It is a new bike to me so I don't know much about them

The problem occurred on the way back from a few hours long drive. I had just got off the motorway and as i turned left the bike lost all power and i stopped on the side of the road. All the lights and instruments appeared to be working fine so i tried to start it again and... Nothing. There is no sound when i press the starter button. ( ill add the temp guage was at about ~110 at this time).

Usually when you turn the key from off to on, There is a sound which i have assumed is the fuel pump pumping fuel. This used to run about 5 seconds or so before stopping but now when i turn the key from off to on, there is no sound whatsover from it. (this problem only happened after it cut out)

All lights and dash assembly appear to be working properly with no anomalies.

If anyone has any idea what to do or if you need more information, please let me know.
 
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#2 ·
The only time my bike has done something like that is with the kickstand down and in gear. You've got clutch, kickstand, gear position, and potentially front brake sensors that can play a part in lights on but won't turn over situation. ... sometimes seeing if you can push start it will help you diagnose the problem.
 
#3 ·
I second that, except the clutch switch and gear position sensor affect operation of the starter motor, that is, once the bike is running they wouldn't cut fuel. Fuel can be cut by the sidestand switch and the tipover switch, as far as I know. Also check all the fuses of course, as it might just be a blown fuel/ignition system fuse. If it's none of that, you'll have to troubleshoot the wiring and provide more information.
 
#7 ·
Fair warning........If you eliminate everything else...pump,relay,fuses,wires......Not every time, but often the ecu/cdi gets fried.
Charging system fault.
Manual walks you through testing.

Edit....Pic's!!!!!
Also the SRAD section is home.;)
 
#8 · (Edited)
So i had a look at the fuses and battery, The battery is putting out a 12.29 voltage. The 10 amp ignition fuse up by the windscreen is blown too. Now, my understanding is that when a fuse blows, it is usually caused by something else. Any idea what else to check. i have only currently checked the battery and the front fuses. Or should i just swap the fuse out and keep riding? Also chucked up a pic of my bike ;)
 
#10 ·
the battery is putting out 12.9 running or not running?

it should be like 13.4 running and 12.9-13.4 not running

however that doesn't mean your deeper cycles aren't shot so you need to put the battery on a load test to see if its taking a charge deeper cycles and then holding it

parts store can test it for you

then when its running remove the battery cables and use the fast idle to get the RPMs to around 5k, then test it should be around 58 volts

bad battery good charging system = problems, good battery bad charging system = problems

however if the charging system is bad and battery is in good shape you can put it on a battery tender at night and drive it in the day just unplug one headlight, should be able to safely go about 25=35 miles each way freeway miles

I ran mine from about 80-100 miles between charges and it never even got to the point it wouldn't start so you can go a ways on a good strong full charge without the charging system putting out
 
#9 ·
Check your service manual but the bare minimum for the battery should be 12.5 so your battery either needs to be charged or it's dying. The blown fuse and battery could be an indication your rectifier is malfunctioning. I say rectifier because it sounds like perhaps an over-charging which blew the fuse and potentially damaged your battery, you'll need to test your charging system.
 
#11 · (Edited)
cheers for the replies. Iv done a few tests on it after charging the battery. The battery is at 12.9v when it is turned off
The voltage whilst the high beam is on and the rpm is @ 5000 is 13.29 volts which is outside the recommended range of 13.5-15v.
I have measured the resistance across the 3 stator connectors to 0.6 ohms. The manual suggests approx 0.3 ohms so that seems reasonable.

So to test the stator, I should remove both battery terminal cables and get the rpm to 5000 and then measure the voltage across the two cable ends?
 
#12 ·
So to test the stator, I should remove both battery terminal cables and get the rpm to 5000 and then measure the voltage across the two cable ends?
how I do it, you could prolly ground the neg to frame

if that doesn't read right then to isolate the R/R and stator, unplug the stater from regulator then test the 3 stator leads, that might be the one that's 58 volts at 5k? maybe check manual to double check, yea that's it actually cuz the battery leads off the R/R are posed to put out like 13 14 or so to charge battery, duh... oops

I may have misled you if so sorry bout that, but yea I think the cables at the battery should be the 13.5 and the stator leads before the R/R are the 48 volts at 5k, yup pretty sure that's it, so if the 3 stator leads at the regulator read 48 then it has to be the regulator if you're not getting the right voltage at the battery leads... and if you dont get the 48 off the 3 leads then stator may be bad or leds could be bad inspect real good, some say to solder those leads to the stator for a real solid connection

this issue is basically the biggest Achilles for the SRADs along with the cam chain tensioner, does your have the manual or stock auto? many install a mosfet R/R for improved electrical performance all around, I noticed my system is a lot more stable with the mosfet for sure, no flickering and what not

:cheers
 
#13 ·
I'v tested the rectifier and stator; The stator puts out ~70v @ 5000rpm. According to the table in the manual for regulator/rectifier diode test, the only difference i can tell of is the measurement of 1.3v instead of the range of 0.5~1.2 with positive probe on b/w wire and the negative wire on the b/r wire. All the other diodes were putting out 0.6. Would this be conclusive enough to require swift action and replace the regulator/rectifier or should i test something else.

Not sure about the chain tensioner, only had it for a little bit and haven't had to do any engine work as of yet!
 
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