Previous owner dyno'd at 122 with bolt on RS-3 an down a tooth in rear. We'll see how it does. I just want piece of mind that its tuned right with full system.
I ask as I dont know what they make as stock, as long as its healthy and fuelling correctly, thays the main thing..was it mapped/pc...(is the RS3 item something along those lines?)
I am warning you guys not to get caught up in dyno numbers, it a disappointing game.
DynoJet numbers are optimistic, edddy current numbers are more "real", but no-one wants to see them because they are much lower. DynoJet dyno fluctuate wildly from one to another, and the same one from one time to another. Don't get caught up in a numbers game.
I don't care about the "numbers" other that seeing the difference in numbers before and after! Hence why I took it to be tuned. Hope this thread doesn't start down that old bumpy dyno road
Even two runs on the same day are hard to compare, ok. Forget numbers..... Look for a good a/f trace, a linear progression, and the hp where you need it, forget peak numbers, Listen.
chris you sound llike the guy that dyno tuned our r6.. he told us right from the get go that his dyno is sae and will read about 10 percent lower then a dynojet. not to get caught up in the numbers as he has built and tuned many different set ups over the years. he was an ex racer with a bad right wrist so he ran the throttle with his left hand half the time. at the end of the day the best pull was 98.9 and 45 with a nice linear rise in hp numbers and she held the 45 from 8000 and a bit up to 11000 before it dropped off. the initial un tuned settup didnt make 70 hp lol was way to lean in some places and way to fat in others.
Dyno numbers don't win races, smooth a/f traces, with power where YOU need it does. Almost everybody leaves a Dyno dissapointed when you are after numbers, all that matters is the shape on that graph.