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K1 to K3 Header: Performance Benefits for GSXR 1100

15K views 36 replies 10 participants last post by  ydb1md 
#1 ·
Hello all,
I know there is a thread in existance for headers on an 1100 but I wanted to pose a seperate question on whether swapping in a modern GSXR 1000 header on a GSXR 1100 WC has any performance benefits?
Any info at all would be greatly appreciated!
Many thanks!
 
#2 ·
It will most likely weight less, and may have a larger interior diameter (more free flowing)... :dunno
 
#5 ·
Lol! Dude! small world indeed! Yes it is I :)
So now that I know you;re in close proximity I guess we can find out first hand what the results are!
I already have an old hindle header with 1.5"internal diamerter pipes and 2.25" exhaust exit. So I don;t know if the pipe diameter will help any with the larger ones. From what I see the 4-2-1 design of the newer headers is what intrigues me most! The Hindle is a 4 -1 and kinda beat up!

Look forward to hearing from you on the results.

^ Many thanks to all who responded, great info as always!
 
#7 ·
So the K1/K2/K3 1K header will fit an 1100w/c? I'd love to make that swap to shave some weight and be able to get into newer (and more selection) cans. Any pics of the underbelly hanger? How does it line up w/ the 1100's hanger system? Does it ride any higher? I'm in the midst of putting those infernal TLR bellypan fairings on and my stock '93-'94 header and it's resting directly on the bellypan fairing.
 
#13 ·
Hey ghostrider, yeah the pipes I picked up are infact titanium, they are from a 2003 gsxr 1000.

I wanted to ask you, do you have any experience in bending Titanium pipes?? The reason I am asking is they feel so brittle in my hands and I fear if I try to bend them they will actualy snap. Will they bend like steel when I heat them up or will they break?? I need about 1.5 inches more space between pipe #2 and pipe #3.
 
#16 ·
So in keeping with the cosmetic, weight deit and suspension work I've got lined up for the off-season, I've managed to get my hands on an 01 - 03 gsxr 1000 header.

As per above observations I also require to widen distance between #2 and #3 pipe. Has anyone managed to do this?

I don't know if I should just go to the local exhaust shop or try it myself? I don't think I can use the usual canadian tyre propane torch as it prolly will take ages to heat it up....

Any guidance would be great guys!

Thanks as always!
 
#20 ·
Agreed!!
 
#21 ·
Is there now enough room between #2 and #3 to remove the oil filter?
 
#23 ·
???

Thought this was being discussed as a K3/K4 1K swap to a watercooler? Looking at the K3/K4 header, there's less space between #2/#3 than on the stock 1100 header. Once the newer header is bent into shape, question is if there's enough room to easily remove the oil filter or not w/out having to remove the header?
 
#24 ·
I think the clearance would be exactly the same as the pipes are pretty much the same diameter.

Are you removing the headers now to do the oil change?? or are you just meaning hypthetically.

If your having a trouble with the oil filter removal I would suggest a Rite fit oil filter removal tool. It fit my Katana , my gixxer all that use the same oil filter and honestly, I cant live without it.

Im pretty sure its called rite fit but I will double check.
 
#25 ·
No, stock header is able to stay on to do the oil change on my 1100. I'm concerned about having to bend the #2/#3 pipes on a K3/K4 header to clear the oil filter. Having to remove the header to change the oil filter is -- to me -- not worth the hassle of having lighter weight.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Hello all, apologies for the delay, it's been a hectic week and it appears my 750 pan swap had to be undone before I could dry fit with the 1100 pan. so below is a further update of the mounted pipes on the bike:
********************************************************


Conditions:

1. The #2 and #3 header pipes must move approx 1.5 inches

2. You must employ the 1100 pan. 750 pan swaps must be reversed as the #1 and #2 pre-collectors foul the pan.

3. # 2 header pipe touches the frame cradle rail. The Header mating surface must be ground down 2 mm to allow the inner of the two head mount bolts to be tightened, canting the pipe away from the frame cradle rail.


Observations:

1. Filter Clearance: lots of space between 2 and 3 header pipe or for side access in case fairings are removed


2. Pan Clearance: lots of clearance (3 inches) from pan.
a. Conditions: Cannot employ the 750 pan as it fouls the 1 and 2 pre collector pipe.


3. Forward clearance: the pipes extend forwards towards the front wheel as the engine is not canted as far forward as a 1000 engine, as well as due to the exhaust header exit angle. This may result in the need fr some undesirable mods for fairings (that is next after I get the pan and everything else back on)

Problems:

1. The header length is much greater than the era true hindle steelies I took off with lots of bends and two collectors per cylinder
2. The 1100 pan has to be used for these pipes to be tenable
3. #2 header exit contacts the cradle rail, so it needs to be torqued down to cause the torque to cant it away from the rail. The mating surface of the header mating surface (narrow edge) will have to be ground down about 2 mm on the inside (pointing to #3 header pipe, while leaving the edge closest to #1 header pipe intact, thus allowing the torque to be exerted on the pipe to provide a very small amount of clearance from the frame cradle rail.

Advantages:

1. 4-2-1 design is supposed to enhance the mid range the 1100 is famous for
2. The pipe diameter is respectable and exhaust scavenging will be spot on for shorter aftermarket systems (gp pipe here I come)
3. Weighs next to nothing and with a stubby exhaust will essentially have almost eliminated the 15 lbs exhaust system weight
 
#33 ·
That ain't gonna work for the TLR fairings I'm trying to install. Dammit.
 
#34 ·
Great follow-up, thank you.
 
#36 ·
So a quick update in this one. The headers are on and the bike runs great with them. A bit more low end oomph and less flat spots is what I notices. Also used the stock mid-pipe and can from the 1000 2002. The pipe does prodrude a bit to the right laterally (1 inch farther than one would expect from a slimmer aftermarket unit) but overall am very happy with the weight savings and resulting 4-2-1 torque.
 
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