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Flatslide Cables

2K views 26 replies 5 participants last post by  gsxrrj 
#1 ·
I bought my RS36 Flatslides back in the mid '90s along with the throttle and cable rig from Sudco. The ones they sent have the bellcrank on the left end of the carb bank.

That's all fine, but the cables are about 4" too long. I also bought another throttle & cable rig( don't remember from who), but it too has the same cables that are too long.
No matter how I route them, and I've tried everything I possibly could, they either get jammed up in the headlight bracket or simply bind if I try to avoid an intuitive routing.
I ended up having the outlet of the housing pointing up and ran the cables over top of the upper fairing bracket. It works fine, but looks....odd.

Anybody else with the left bellcrank RSs out there who has found a tidier solution?

Thanks
 
#3 ·
Photos?

I have both routings with throttle cables out TOP and BOTTOM on applications, both center pull.

I would think outboard (left side) linkage would work "better" or be "longer" route than center...

Can you show how you routed yours that was too long? (Both mine have broad loops around the nose-cone area for smooth radius under lock-to-lock rotation...)

-crisp
 
#4 ·
I'll have to take some pics, but it may be a while.

The LH pull is great for diddling jetting in the pits. But I'll be damned if I can figure out how to route them in a "normal" way.

Going full lock to the left is the biggest problem; they get all bunched up behind the headlights.

I'll get some pics - Thanks!
 
#6 ·
^^^ Looks like a Shaw fuel cap. The inspiration for the first gen GSX-R fuel caps. Nice.

Anyway, one way that these were routed, back in the day, is under the front fairing/headlight bracket and looped around the front of the fork tubes.

If this doesn't work for you, have a set of cables made. Talk to Motion Pro.

JR
 
#14 ·
Auto part Rotor Clutch part Disc brake Vehicle brake

Wheel Metal Number


Good call, Jeff! Shaw it is... massive for street! Came with the "Rip-Van-Winkle" AMA Race Bike... planning to overhaul it for the Frankengixer build. (You may recognize a few parts... ) Tank was cut open, baffled and welded for larger capacity and dual-spigot feed added to supply the massive 39mm CR Smoothbores, still debating them or the RS40s. (Sorry for the segue off-topic... :D

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motorcycle Automotive tire


-crisp
 
#7 ·
Hey thanks for the photos and advice!
Running them completely under the headlight bracket would put, mine at least, at risk of kinking when going full left. Going around the left fork tube would pull them too tight when going full right, which I've tried. Perhaps mine aren't long enough :)

I gotta wait until I can get the bike in a condition that I can roll it off of the lift and I'll show you guys what I'm dealing with; that'll take a bit of time though.

I've considered ordering some custom cables from Motion Pro - the prices for them aren't really all that bad.

I was sorta hoping somebody out there found a cable/s for something else that worked well with the left pull rig. It's a shame that there aren't many shops that have a display with lots of cables to compare with anymore. I was hoping that the ubiquity of HSRs on Harleys et al would have kept such a market going.
I guess I'll have to do some math and design some custom cables.
 
#9 ·
'tis true; it would rev the engine when run inside the left tube.

I found an old stock cable and threw it on to see if it would work. I routed it around the front of the right tube, through the headlight bracket and between the side of the steering head and left tube. It worked fine except for the adjuster barrel would limit the crank rotation - a problem due to too little free length of the cable.
It was enough to run the engine for its first heat cycle.
The stock cable's curved piece at the carb end looked like it would tuck it in nicely under the mid. Even if I modified the adjuster barrel, it still doesn't give me an idle cable. I know it's not advisable to run w/out one, but those return springs are wicked.
I was considering two stock pull cables and making a custom throttle housing or modifying one I have. I'd just like things to be as COTS as possible to reduce guesswork for whoever ends up with it.
 
#12 ·
The usual spec for cable free play is always more than I like, so I tend to run the minimum that doesn't cause a problem. You do have to have some, though. It's usually the pull cable that is the most critical.

You need to route the cables so they have some room to move around, which is why I suggested routing them the way I did. If they have room to move sideways without hitting something, it makes life a lot easier, so that's why I don't like to run them in between things that limit their ability to move left and right with the bars.

You might disconnect them both at the carb end, then hold the ends together with one hand while turning the bars with the other. It will allow you to play with the effective length (holding them nearer or further from the carbs) and you can see quickly how different lengths and routings would affect their ability to move sideways. It shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes to select a route and length that will work.

JR
 
#18 ·
It's one of "The Dude's" hand-laid glass tails... he is still making them. (Potshot just hooked up too, pretty sure. ;)

I'll look into the "new" Shaw. This one is "as-it-sat" since it last raced in '87ish... AMA bike still had the granite-hard original slicks and yellow wheel balance weight tape on the rims when I got it. Salvagable, but fresh is always good.

(I think my tail mount location is "okay"... hmmm...)

-crisp
 
#22 ·
I snapped a few photos for whatever they may be worth. I still don't have the bike ready to come off the lift for the purpose of swing the trees around, but these may give an idea of what I'm dealing with.

It appears that going around both tubes will result in too short a run.

Photos 2 & 4 show what would be close too "normal" in terms of cable run, but as mentioned, they get bound up behind the lights and pinched to some degree at full left.

1, 3, and 5 show what the result is if I go around both tubes.
 

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#23 ·
Here are some more also illustrating my experiment with a stock cable.

1 & 2 show how short they get, once again, when going around both tubes. I tried a few different clockings of the throttle housing, but it didn't seem to help.

3, 4, and 5 just show the stock cable in place.

Considering how things look with the forks straight up, I don't think being able to move them through their travel will yield any more useful info.

The idea of running them completely underneath the light bracket is attractive, but I'm fairly certain that the spigots coming out of the housing will foul the light bracket.

Any suggestions welcome.
 

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