I am installing RS36 carbs on my bike. I have 2 questions. One, what push/pull set up can I use either after market or from another year or even another bike? Two, Velocity stacks? What advantage or disadvantage are they and the Pro's and Con's?
- MotionPro throttle is a good option
- I have always used single stacks (filters), many say use double units for better fit & flow. Don't know first hand... either work.
- DON'T use open velocity stacks (unless racing, for photos or you don't care about engine wear/damage) They look cool-as-fook!
- Tricky to tune correctly throughout range, many struggle with a flat-spot, work better with modified motors, tempermental in some weather, chatter (BOTH pro and con!), accelerator pump often mis-tuned/difficult to tune for some,STIFF throttle/wrist-hand stress, AWESOME carburetors!
- Easy tuning access to mains/needle/sync adjustments
- Big Flow potential
- Sound Spectacular!
Crisp, I think I am a little confused! It sounds like the RS are harder to tune than CV carbs? My CVs were a pain to tune, so I was always told that RS are easier to tune.
+1 on the Motion Pro Throttle. I initially ran mine with nothing attached to the carb throats. The flat spot, I would call it a bog, was untuneable. I called Sudco and they recommended velocity stacks. Sorry, I don't remember the length. Problem solved and she ran like a scalded dog. No air filtration though.
Two and a half inches. No velocity stacks and pod filters and you may as well stick to cv's. In my opinion 38/40 cv's with airbox is the way to go for ease of everything. For me the extra power isn't worth the agro of sticking slides and hard to module throttle. To each their own though.
Don't want to get off topic or hijack, but I've been wondering why it is that RS's require a push/pull? I've been told clearly that the slides will hang open if a P/P set up isn't used, but the cables attach to the same cam and the return spring is heavy as hell!! Is it that whatever causes the things to stick is actually capable of holding back a return spring that heavy? I fitted mine with a secondary spring that adds a certain measure of return force in addition to the one already on the carb rack but do you actually have to twist the throttle closed??
Intake vacuum holds the slides against their bore. The higher the RPM when you shut throttle the stronger the vacuum. Hence the strong spring and closing cable. Servo motor would be good.
Yeah, sometimes at redline when you snap the throttle closed to start slowing for a corner, it seems as if the throttle hesitates for just a fraction before shutting off. This even with the Motion Pro setup. I don't know, it sort of becomes part of the deal after a few sessions. I know I keep saying that but I guess the point I'm trying to make is that flatslides come with a learning curve. I really, really like them for racetrack use, though and would want them for the street if I had a street oil boiler. That's my opinion. Of course, my opinion is unquestionably based on the fact that the stock CV carbs are 30 years old and some of the wear items inside them can't be had new. Flatslides, even used ones, can be made new with replacement parts and with some fiddling, will work perfectly. I don't feel that the same can be said for the OEM CV carbs at this late date.
Ok...makes sense - Is that why the TMR's (TMJ's?) have roller bearings on the slides and cost 4x as much? Of course along with being magnesium or platinum or whatever they're made of...
So an obvious oversimplification - it sounds like a trade off between throttle lag on acceleration (CV's) and deceleration (RS's)... many thanks guys... we return you now to our regularly scheduled programming.
Yeah, push-pull is a MUST! Flatslides on a done-up motor are so vicseral and rewarding when your riding is aggressive... there is no comparison to the less dramatic yet smooth and linear delivery of CV's. As you say, there is a "learning curve" but it is also very much about the combination of motor set-up, riding style and tuning quality that play into the performance character of a good dose of Mikuni's capable RS Flatties.
I love these things... but my hand, wrist, forearm, elbow and brain-drain all pay a collateral fee...
...sacrifices at the alter of the gods of performance extremes not every avid rider cares to lay down... nor needs to. Hot Flatslides aren't something you sport the way you wear soft cottons to be comfortable or a zoot-suite to bring the bling... you work them like a blistered hand whittles a hickory handle on a Viking's long-axe charging into battle and savor the salty blood off your palms as you squeeze out a better grip!
...sacrifices at the alter of the gods of performance extremes not every avid rider cares to lay down... nor needs to. Hot Flatslides aren't something you sport the way you wear soft cottons to be comfortable or a zoot-suite to bring the bling... you work them like a blistered hand whittles a hickory handle on a Viking's long-axe charging into battle and savor the salty blood off your palms as you squeeze out a better grip!
Thanks guys for all the info. I did end up getting the Motion Pro setup throttle tube and cables. I am also going to try and run both Velocity stacks and UNI filters to see which has the best performance. The Velocity stacks are 30MM, so we well see when I get them. Any tips for adjusting the accell pump?
1) Back it out to "NO pump" for preliminary tuning.
2) Sync/Mains/Needles for idle/WOT-max-speed/mid-smooth running
3) Incrementally "introduce" a little accel pump action to compensate for "no-load to load" throttle transition responsiveness at operating range where you NEED and can USE the "squirt".
The carbs don't "know" when to feed the motor anymore than we do... but the MOTOR will "ask" for the "abrupt-feed" and "duration required" once the other circuits are set and you begin to tweak it all in as the final step. (As noted above, some motors/set-ups don't want/need a "gas-goose"... others LOVE it at the right moment! )
Thanks for the reply guys. Crips or Ghostrider, will i need to get different size inlet boots to fit the RS36 carbs? As I was running 38MM CVs! So will those boots accept the 36MM RS carbs?
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