Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com banner

Return an 1100J to stock

2K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  javadog 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I bought an 88 that is in beautiful shape, but it looks like a hack went in there and dipped it in a bunch of Vance and Hines parts. I just want a bike that I can start up on a Saturday and go riding for an hour or so and then put it away. I'm not going to the track with it or riding crazy. I'm a Persian Gulf vet and this was the bike I wanted so badly when I graduated boot camp and I saved my pennies and finally found one. This thing is just about perfect but I want it to be more well behaved.

I want it to start and run and be able to go through town at 30mph without getting loaded up and running like crap. Ever since I've had this bike it only wants to run at 9K rpm with the throttle wide open. Here is what I've found that is obviously not OEM from pawing around on it.

V&H Powerpak 22351 box - the 4 dip switches in there I am sure are some kind of spark timing change or something. I imagine this replaced the OEM ECM.

There is a box up on the upper triple that has a pot in it and a relay. There are no part numbers on it, but it has numbers around the pot that could correspond to RPM, maybe this is a shift light or something but I've never seen anything flash at me to tell me to shift.

There is a pull switch on the shifter, maybe an ignition drop out for clutchless shifting.

There is a small ice cube relay in under the seat that is connected to the V&H box and has been spliced into the OEM wiring.

There is a toggle switch mounted on the left fairing by the tank that has 3 positions. I can't tell what it does.

So I'm thinking I want to turn this thing back to factory.

It is very rare to see one of these that looks like it came out of the showroom last week like this one does and so I would like it to be completely stock or as close as I can get to it without spending a ton.

Thanks!
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Welcome to the forum.
Please post some pictures of your bike and we would be pleased to help you out.

Has the bike been sitting for a long time prior to your purchase?
Stock carbs? Engine modifications?

So yes, you probably don't need any of the quick shifter stuff if you aren't headed to the drag strip.
I wouldn't write off the V&H ignition just yet, it will work fine on the street.
If you could tell me what position the dip switches are in, I have the instructions and can tell you what its set at, post the instructions etc.

Cheers,
Scott
 
#4 ·
I don't know of any of the mods, the guy that I bought it from didn't know anything about bikes, basically bought it to impress the ladies and his friends with how loud it is. He only had it for a few months. The carbs are mikuni flat slides - not CV and they have accelerator pumps.

DIP switches are 0111 left to right.
 
#5 ·
Also the bike had not been sitting. It has now, I didn't ride it last year. Now I'm taking it apart and going through it with a fine toothed comb. My Gold Wing is my daily driver so I'm not concerned about getting this done any time soon. I just want it right.

I have some pics for you.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Wow! Very nice, its not often that you see one that hasn't had the stock turn signals hacked off.
Mileage?

I see no reason why you shouldn't be able to ride along through town at slow speeds...thats why I questioned if it had been laid up for a while.
It seems to have some driveability issues, which shouldn't be the result of a few bolt-ons.

Please take some pictures of the aftermarket parts...I don't know if you have a 2 step launch device acting up etc.

If you decide to sell the aftermarket parts in order to return it to stock or are seeking OEM parts to do the same...consider getting your Red R so that you can access the classifieds here.

This is an incredible site, you will find great support here.
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Nice bike.

Buy a Red R, as has been suggested and sell the parts you don't want. You'll make more than enough money to buy the parts that you do need.

I would personally yank off all of the Vance and Hines crap. Fit a stock ignition box, a stock ignition advancer, a stock airbox and a set of stock carbs. You'll want to completely rebuild the carbs before installing them.

The only non-stock part I would have on a bike like that is an aftermarket exhaust. The only one of those I'd use would be a Yoshimura exhaust. They are currently making a new stainless version of one of their systems, which would work well. Otherwise, try to find an old mild steel pipe that is in good shape. Might take a little while, but they can be found.

I would use a stock Suzuki paper filter in the airbox and I would jet the carbs slightly richer. If you install a jet kit, buy one from Factory Pro.

JR
 
#15 ·
JR's right, when I first started reading his response I thought he might have been being mildly sarcastic, but that's not his way... when he's being sarcastic - he's full on afterburner...

Your bike is a beauty and very close to being one that survived the "lockhart flushmount syndrome".... don't get me wrong, I have one I've ripped to shreds with ebay bling bling (and some very nice bit's and bobbles) but only because I gave myself permission as I also have a near showroom "livingroom queen". Get the red R and bring her back!!!
 
#17 ·
86 - when I've heard the term "dyno - tuned" I've envisioned the bike run for a baseline and then tuned as necessary on successive runs with changes to jetting done in between runs until optimum performance is achieved. If correct - is the dyno guy also the tuner and is it all done during the same visit? I can't imagine having to load the thing up, take it to the shop, unload, run it, load it up, unload it, make a hopeful jetting change and (repeat as many times as necessary). And as you're kinda' local to me and I'm doing RS's, pipe, head, cams and a 1216 kit on my '91 1100 - is there any one you'd recommend??
 
#18 ·
I'll jump in here...Yes, you need to have your ducks in a row...its on your dime, so you will need an assortment of jets and whatever else it takes to quickly make changes to the carbs, tweak the timing etc...experience has shown that you seldom get it all sorted the first time out but you can try, there is some trial and error, it usually just reveals something else that you need to fix.
The more organized and prepared you are, the smoother it will go...trailer it to the shop, leave the fairing and seat at home.
You will need to find someone that still wants to work on carbs and get their hands smelly.
The new stuff is so much faster and easier...just slap the keyboard.
 
#20 ·
If you put it back to mostly stock and install a Factory Pro jet kit, you should be able to get the initial jetting pretty close before running it. Install socket head cap screws in place of the JIS screws in the tops and float bowls and you'll be able to remove those with the carbs in place, with the right tools. Once you have it running and the carbs synched, fine tune the low speed screws and then run it on the dyno. Sort the main jet first and then adjust the needle position if you need to. I wouldn't screw with the timing, just leave it stock. You should be able to get it tuned in a couple hours.

JR
 
#22 · (Edited)
Whoa, that is nice. @java, ignition advance perked mine up nicely, why wouldn't you want that? I had put it on when I just had a pipe, before doing the carbs, very noticeable. Oh, and adding the Yosh pipe without rejetting was no problem at all, it still ran great.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top