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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Question ignition help

I have 12v to both sides of my coils , but when I crank it over I cant get a spark from plug wire? I dont think both coils would go bad? I have Vand H power pack in it . It always has taken a little while to start, when its runing or its warm no issues. any trouble shooting tips?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-29-2012, 01:50 AM
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Re: ignition help

I would check the signal cable going to the coils. Should be 12v signal if not you can check continuity on a ground signal. If your NOT getting signal I'd say it's the V&H or back to that direction. If you DO it's the coil-wire-plug direction. Not sure how you are checking for spark but make sure your grounding the plug to the engine while you turn it over.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-29-2012, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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Re: ignition help

should one side of the coil be ground and the other 12v ? I have 12v on both sides of the coil.....maybe only because its reading through the coil? When I crank it my plug wire should be kicken hot spark. It only kicks a spark when I first turn the key on?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-29-2012, 10:22 AM
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Re: ignition help

The coils have 2 terminals on them -ign fed live and "switched" earth ,
The live feed (usually Orange & white ) is an ignition fed 12v positive live and is common to both coils

the switched earth will be something like Black & Yellow for the coil that fires 2&3 and white for the coil that fires 1&4

with the wires all connected to the coils , it will appear like you have a 12v + both sides of the coil. As you turn the motor over with the starter , the CDI unit will momentarily ground the switch earth wires ( Black & Yellow andwhite) . This forces the charge built up in the primary windings to be dumped and create a spark at the plug.

This 'switching' is usually too fast for anything but a top of the range multimeter to detect - so you'll go round in circles trying to test a coil in this way.

To check the coils

  • Do one at a time
  • Leave the Orange & white wire connected to the coil.
  • Disconnect one of the 'switched earth' wires from the loom , and instead use your own separate piece of wire .
  • Connect one end of this wire directly to the switched earth terminal of the coil and clear the insulation from the other end to leave the wire bare
  • Ensure that the 2x HT leads from the coil that you are testing are in good condition and firmly attached to the coil
  • Put 2 x 'known good' spark plugs in the end of the HT leads.
  • Rest the spark plugs against a good earth ( test with a volt meter )
Now the fun bit !
  • switch your ignition on
  • briefly flick the bare end of your new 'switched earth' wire across the negative terminal of the bikes battery - when this happens , both the spark plugs should give a healthy fat spark.
Go through the same procedure with the other coil.

What you are doing here is effectively bypassing the CDI as well as, the loom between the CDI and the coils. You are manually switching the -ve side of the coil in order to get a spark at the plugs


If you still get no spark ,and you've sure that all your connections are good - then you may have a dodgy +ve supply to the coils . You may well have 12v reading on your meter , but trust me - that means nothing if the current is too low , the resistance is too high or there is a break somewhere in the insulation .
Disconnect the Orange & white wire from the coil , and instead run a wire directly from the positive terminal on the battery ( you've now bypassed the live feed all the way from the fuse box , through the ignition switch , and through the loom to the coils .
Again , flick your 'home made' switch earth across the -ve terminal off the battery -Again, you should get a fat spark at both plugs ( at the same time)

If you still get no spark , then you have a problem with either the coil / HT lead / or spark plug that you are testing. You'll have to go right back to basics and start measuring the impedance and continuity of the coils - the specs will be in the manual. Failing that , it's a case of swapping items over ( coils / HT leads / Spark plugs ) with known good items.


Hope this helps


Lee
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-29-2012, 10:24 AM
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Re: ignition help

So your saying it throws spark when you turn the key on?
I know once you turn the key the coils will be getting a constant 12v to... I forget what the word is "charge" maybe the coils.. The other lead is your signal. Now I don't have a diagram in front of me at the moment but if your getting constant 12v to both sides and it sparks when you turn the key and that's it; that tells me that your signal to the coil is probably a 12v positive signal.
I could be wrong you could have a constant 12v and the signal sends when the signal voltage drops.
It's hard to troubleshoot when your not there...
My best guess is that it's the V&H or maybe the rotor??

From: N3aL
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-29-2012, 10:25 AM
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Re: ignition help

Or what lee said!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-29-2012, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Re: ignition help

thank gents !!!! let the fun begin......and I thought takeing the tank off was a pain in the ass.....
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-30-2012, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: ignition help

got home and it fired right up after having a battery charger on it all night, I think the V and H power pack is sensitive to correct voltage it must have been low on the cranking cycle. I had 12v when I checked it .....easy fix thx for all the input guys
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