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L0 GSXR750 generator problem

4K views 37 replies 6 participants last post by  fassi1 
#1 ·
I recently gained problem with battery charging. Just to add my rectifier has been repaced under recall.
I lost charging completely. Voltage with engine running was 11.6V when it suppose to be at least 14V. Step by step done all the tests manual advices to perform and I stopped on generator "No-load performance". Readings between all three pins from generator should be 65V or more at min 5000rpm. All my three readings were 0V, so it looks like I need new generator.
I heven't managed to remove it yet but is there something I need to look at before I replace generator with new one? Other thing, have aftermarket generators been used with a success?
OEM generators seems to be very expensive.
 
#2 ·
Readings between all three pins from generator should be 65V or more at min 5000rpm. All my three readings were 0V, so it looks like I need new generator.
Are you measuring with your DMM in AC voltage mode? I'd expect it to read higher than 0V even in DC mode, but you never know.

Other thing, have aftermarket generators been used with a success?
People here generally recommend either OEM or Rick's Motorsport stators, which are a little cheaper. Not sure if they're made for your model though.
 
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#12 ·
:scratch

Maybe something has changed but back before I was a mod, I deleted some of my threads. Don't think I could before my red R but after yes or at least threads I started, maybe ask an admin if they can clarify. I do have a second account that was created when I was locked out of my account (yes, all the staff know) so even if I logged in with that account and made a test post, it wouldn't show whether a premium member can/can't delete post/thread made. Then again, that account may be locked as I don't believe I ever updated/changed the password after site reset.

And just in case OG sees this, here is a monkey peeing on another monkey :phhht

:monkeyface:piss
 
#14 ·
Maybe something has changed but back before I was a mod, I deleted some of my threads.[...]
It seems I can, in fact, delete posts I've made in my own threads. The options is there even without going advanced, but when I haven't started the thread I can't. I'm not sure I see the reason behind that behavior, but it seems to be the case.

Thanks!
 
#15 · (Edited)
Update.
Unfortunately bad news. I couldn't believe it, but it happened :(
One of the flywheel bolts snapped off and the rest you can see on the pictures.
How could that possibly happen? :wtf Bolt didn't come undone, it simply snapped off and the rest of the tread remained in the flywheel.
In my opinion, quality is simply unacceptable. :hammer
 

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#16 ·
I don't think the bolt head could have done all that damage to the stator, even if it had broken off spontaneously. I'd consider it more likely for the bold to have loosened and backed out to the point where it started making contact with the stator, grinding it down until it snapped off. The damage to the stator seems to be too far outwards radially though, so I'm not so sure.

In any case, however the stator ended up like that, it must have made quite a bit of noise. Didn't you hear anything?
 
#17 ·
The problem is that it didn't make any noise at all.
With akrapovic, decat and ear plugs there is not much chance to hear any slight noise changes.
It sounded just like any other day until this moment.
I still can't understand how possibly can such a important part of the engine come undone.
This is Suzuki's major failure. They should be recalling all the bikes for repairs.
This is my first Suzuki ( own it since March ) and that will definitely be the last one.
 
#18 ·
You were probably unlucky in that the whole process, from first contact, to grinding and snapping off, played out while you were travelling at speed. I wouldn't expect it to be audible on the highway, but you'd probably have heard it when idling at the lights or in the driveway. As to how it happened, I suppose either the assembler at the factory or the last person to loosen those bolts, forgot to put thread lock on them, or didn't apply it properly.
 
#19 ·
I read manual few times and it doesn't say anything about applying thread lock. It says use new precoated bolts and torque them up to 17NM.
Maybe precoated means bolts supplied with dry thread lock which can be found sometimes on some bolts and that was poorly done.
 
#20 ·
Yup, exactly the same mess I had happen with two engines this summer, the original K8 and the L0 swapped in to replace it before I realized what had actually occurred. Neither engine had been opened up, the bolts were as installed at the factory, and is therefore unlikely be a simple installation error.

I fully agree, there really isn't much warning between everything being good and a catastrophic failure, and is also a far more major/damaging failure than the rectifier which has been recalled twice. I've been suggesting to everyone I know with this gen, over the winter pull the cover and check that those bolts are still tight. The alternative sucks.
 
#21 ·
I've been suggesting to everyone I know with this gen, over the winter pull the cover and check that those bolts are still tight. The alternative sucks.
Note though, that when testing one should take care not to overtorque the bolt. If the bolt is properly tightened and you apply enough torque to further tighten it, the existing thread lock compound will have been broken, leading to increased likelihood of future failure. I think the proper way to proceed, would be to apply minimal torque in order to ensure that none of the bolts are dangerously loose. Any that are found to be so, should get a new coat of thread lock compound before being retorqued to spec.
 
#23 ·
Personally I would suggest to take them all out no matter if they torqued up correctly, clean them all up, apply high strength thread lock and torque them up correctly again.
I reckon that some of the bolts had very little amount of thread lock or no thread lock at all and even being torqued up correctly, engine's vibrations eventually made them come loose.
That is major manufacturers failure, potential engine blow up.
Has somebody tried to contact dealer to see what they say?
 
#26 ·
That is major manufacturers failure, potential engine blow up.
Has somebody tried to contact dealer to see what they say?
My bike was at a dealer when this came to light. I emailed Suzuki Canada to ask if they'd seen it previously / inform them if they hadn't. Head office is pretty close, so a technical rep had a look at the bike and talked to the mechanic there. Their answer: "We checked our North American technical reporting data base and found one similar incident reported on a bike in the U.S. in 2006. When we checked the sales on both the 2006 and 2008 style rotors we sell a handful (2 to 5) every year. Those parts sales are not necessarily for the same issue that you have experienced. However, this would indicate that generator rotors are not a common or wide spread problem."
 
#29 ·
Update
Managed to get flywheel and starter clutch off the engine. Took 5 remainingd bolts out and I must say, that only 1 bolt didn't come out easily, all the rest including snapped stud came out easily. Other thing, there was very little thread lock on all of the bolts.
 

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#33 ·
What thread lock would you recommend to use on these bolts ?
Well, the manual for the K6/7, which has a similar, if not identical setup, but doesn't use pre-coated bolts, specifies the application of THREAD LOCK SUPER “1303” (part #99000-32030). Perhaps you could try to search the web for what common thread lock brand product this corresponds to. I'd just get a set of precoated replacement bolts and be done with it.

Looking for something strong can be used in oil environment and can't find anything.
The manual also mention that you should degrease the bolts and bolt holes, before applying the thread lock compound and tightening to 10Nm. I don't think you'll need a special compound formulated for oil, just clean surfaces for it to bond to. Make sure to check the L0's manual for the proper details.
 
#34 ·
Finally managed to put everything back together. Before I did it, I decided to remove oil sump to make sure that there is no copper shavings hiding anywhere inside the engine. I must say, that oil sump was pretty clean, but pre pump oil strainer was full of crap, dirt and copper shavings to the point that you couldn't see through it. At this point I was quite happy that I removed sump and I could give strainer a propper cleaning.
I ordered only 1 bolt from Suzuki, the other 5 were absolutely fine. I personally wasn't very happy about precoating on the new bolt. It only covered 1/3 of the thread and it didn't start from the beginning of the thread end of the bolt.
I removed precoating and decided to use threadlock, other 5 bolts needed threadlock anyway, so I decided to treap all 6 bolts equally. I decided to use loctite 263 which acording to Loctite tech specialist is made for US market and is the same as 270. Strange, because tech specs of those two are not identical. I gave all the bolts and threads really good cleaning and degreasing before applying threadlock and putting it all back together. Fingers crossed, they will never come loose again.
After putting it all back together, I decided to flash the engine twice with some cheap oil and there was still tiny amont of copper shavings in the first drained out oil, second flash was clean. After that I replaced oil filter and put fresh Motul in. So far everything is fine, charging is back to normal 14.3V at idle.
 
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